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A profile for any device, like a monitor or printer, maps the color space you are working in to the color space of the hardware device. Suppose your image file is in the ProPhoto RGB color space. That file on your computer is mapped through your monitor's color profile to the color space of the monitor when you view it on the monitor. When you print that file it is mapped to the color space of the printer, but that's a little more complicated. The color space of the printer depends on the printer itself, the ink being used, and the paper being used. Typically the printer and ink are fixed and only the paper changes, so you need a different profile for each paper.
Just remember that changing any one of printer, paper, or ink requires a different profile. Different models of the same printer brand typically need different profiles if they use different print heads, different dithering patterns, or different inks because all of those things affect the color space of the printer. Some people use third party inks and unless the inks are exactly matched to the OEM inks the third party inks need different profiles. Some older printers were not consistent from unit to unit, and for those you needed custom made profiles for every printer. Today things are better and many use "canned" profiles from the printer manufacturer (like Epson if you're using Epson paper on an Epson printer) or from the paper manufacturer for their 3rd party paper on a given printer brand and model. But there are lots of bad profiles in the world, especially from some paper manufacturers. Epson profiles for their papers are typically excellent. For the ultimate results, even on the newest printers, custom profiles are the most accurate but I wouldn't do that starting out. Good "canned" profiles will get you 98% of the way there.
So to try a new paper that's not an Epson paper get the paper manufacturer's profile for that paper on your P800. Find a good test image file that has lots of different colored objects and shades of gray. Google "printer test image" to find some. Print the image and look at it. If the grays have color casts then the profile is bad. If a strawberry, orange, or apple looks "off", it's a bad profile. If skin tones look wrong, it's a bad profile. If colors are accurate but dark tones block up (too much ink) it's a bad profile. You get the idea.
It's tedious but not hard. Starting out you can't go too wrong with Epson paper and their profiles. In fact making a test print on that for comparing other papers with isn't a bad idea either. Just remember they will not match *exactly*, but they should be very close.
I hope that helps.
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