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Any tips on how to use my first monolight (godox ad600) I...
  
 
karlkrum
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p.1 #1 · p.1 #1 · Any tips on how to use my first monolight (godox ad600) I'm lost


Hey guys i've mostly been shoot landscapes, but have ventured into shooting portraits with natural light. Then i got a battery powered ring light (Yongnuo YN-308C) love this thing, so easy to use with a a7r2. The live view and always on LED light makes setting exposure effortless for me as it would be the same way I would expose any other image and I get feedback on how to adjust the light through the camera screen.

With the ad600 (non-ttl) it's tough, I've never used a flash before so I'm new to all this. I'm using a 95cm octobox and at the lowest power (1/256) I still overexpose. I constantly find my self changing flash power and exposure settings to kind of guess the / get lucky with the right combo that works.

My thinking goes, set your aperture as desired and shutter speed should be at least something to make sharp photos so start at 1/320. Then I would adjust flash power to fill in the model, the problem is a lot of times at the lowest power it's still too much light.



Nov 03, 2017 at 08:08 AM
Ho1972
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p.1 #2 · p.1 #2 · Any tips on how to use my first monolight (godox ad600) I'm lost


Apart from flash power settings, aperture, ISO and light-to-subject distance control your flash exposure. Remember PAID (power, aperture, iso, distance).

Assuming flash to ambient ratio within reason, shutter speed for sharpness is irrelevant. Flash duration is quick enough to get that job done.




Nov 03, 2017 at 12:34 PM
kaplah
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p.1 #3 · p.1 #3 · Any tips on how to use my first monolight (godox ad600) I'm lost


karlkrum wrote:
[...] Then I would adjust flash power to fill in the model, the problem is a lot of times at the lowest power it's still too much light.


If you're using an AD600 for fill, and it's still putting out too much light, you need an ND filter on the lens (or over the light). Or just set your camera accordingly - flash is affected by aperture and iso, keep your shutter at or under x-sync (e.g., 1/250).

But mostly, you need to read and do all the exercises in this: http://strobist.blogspot.com/2006/03/lighting-101.html



Nov 03, 2017 at 01:31 PM
story_teller
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p.1 #4 · p.1 #4 · Any tips on how to use my first monolight (godox ad600) I'm lost


There is a new concept you have to understand. There are two different light sources. One is the ambient light and the second is the flash you add. You can control these independently. The ambient light is normally controlled by your shutter speed and the flash is controlled by the aperture. Set your ISO manually or you will get variance in your results with auto ISO when using flash.

You also have a maximum flash sync speed of 1/250th on the A7RII. If you go over that, you get into the world of HSS (high speed sync). That's a different set of rules from normal flash sync speeds (1/250th and slower).

For now, try to stay at 1/250th or slower so you can get a feel for flash photography and in the mean time, read the intro to flash. (already mentioned so I'll do a +1)

https://strobist.blogspot.com/2006/03/lighting-101.html



Nov 03, 2017 at 01:56 PM
sungphoto
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p.1 #5 · p.1 #5 · Any tips on how to use my first monolight (godox ad600) I'm lost


I highly recommend getting a light meter, as even a really good LCD or EVF isn't the best way to judge for proper exposure and you'll learn how to nail your flash exposure before you even pick up your camera with it. It will also help you figure out things like lighting ratios in a more precise way than eyeballing it.

Typically when shooting on location with one light, I set my exposure for the amount of ambient that I want in the final image - typically I under expose the ambient by 1-2 stops depending on how much contrast I want between light and shadow. Then I meter my off camera light to the proper exposure for my shutter speed, aperture and iso.

Agree with others in terms of learning basics of strobe, and ambient + strobe exposure, and sticking at or below flash sync speed. It seems like so many people first getting into flash photography get fixated on the whole high speed sync, shooting at f1.4 at 1pm on a sunny day "look", while not learning fundamental flash exposure techniques. If you must do that type of photo, then agree that getting either an ND on your lens or your light is the best way to do it if you're still super over-exposed. Otherwise, in order to learn how to use flash, I'd just recommend stopping down your aperture.



Nov 03, 2017 at 09:15 PM
 

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PhotoTeacher
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p.1 #6 · p.1 #6 · Any tips on how to use my first monolight (godox ad600) I'm lost


sungphoto wrote:
I highly recommend getting a light meter, as even a really good LCD or EVF isn't the best way to judge for proper exposure and you'll learn how to nail your flash exposure before you even pick up your camera with it. It will also help you figure out things like lighting ratios in a more precise way than eyeballing it.

Typically when shooting on location with one light, I set my exposure for the amount of ambient that I want in the final image - typically I under expose the ambient by 1-2 stops depending on how much contrast I
...Show more


^^
All of this ++.

You don't use the camera LCD to arrive at the correct exposure, you rely on the camera's meter, whether you are in Manual mode or one of the Auto modes. Why not use a flash meter to arrive at the correct flash exposure, especially if you are using a non-TTL type of flash.



Nov 04, 2017 at 10:12 PM
Paul_K
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p.1 #7 · p.1 #7 · Any tips on how to use my first monolight (godox ad600) I'm lost


I think the 'problem' is much simpler

Shooting with natural light (my preferred type of light, despite having nearly 4000WS of Bowens studio flashes) in my experience most likely means shooting at high ISO, while rather exposing for the IMO much harder to recover high lights at the cost of the shadows

If the (fill in) power output of your (non TTL) studio flash (but that might just as well be an old non TTL fully manual speedlight or even flash bulbs)even at its lowest setting is still too high in combination with the ISO and camera settings used for day light, that is the problem you should tackle

A filter over the lens of course is not the solution
Yes, it may reduce the amount of flash light reaching the sensor, but do the same with the amount of available light.
To then get a correct exposure for the daylight, you would then have to up the ISO or open up your aperture.
But that in turn will allow more flash to 'reach' the sensor, and the problem simply would continue, if only at a higher ISO

HSS (high speed synch) will influence the amount/effect of the available/daylight, resulting in an image where the flash light may be correctly exposed, but the available light underexposed (= flash is now the main light, available the fill)

Strobist IMO is not a useful place to go, basically filled with 'knowledge' of 'internet experts' who rehash what they read somewhere else, and more aimed at using flash as the main light source, and not as much as fill in

IMO there are two options

- Position your flash further away
This will influence/lower the amount of (flash) light reaching your subject (but make the size of the light source relatively smaller, and consequently the light harder
- Reduce the amount of light from the flash reaching your subject, eg by changing the type of light modifier
Eg bouncing the flash in a white umbrella will 'give' less light then when using a softbox, or a silver umbrella
Or get an Umbrella Diffuser eg https://www.fjwestcott.com/white-diffusion-umbrella-front you can mount on the 'open' side of the umbrella
which do a similar job of 'absorbing' the flash output

And last but not least, don't be afraid to use the shadow detail recovery capacities of your camera
Athough I have no experience with the A7RII, I shoot Nikon which basically uses Sony sensors
This image
http://www.pbase.com/paul_k/image/164046023&exif=N
was shot in open shadow, with very late afternoon low level daylight (time stamp 08-Sep-2016 19:20:44)






As I only used daylight and no (fill) flash, the original RAW file was quite under exposed by somewhere around 2 to 3 stops resulting in a quite dark skin tone and muddy shadows (I'm afraid you'll just have to take my word for that , don't have an 'original JPG of the image at hand)
Although only processed with Nikon NX2 2.4.6 (no Lightroom, Photoshop or other more modern/sophisticated software) as you can see the shadows and skin tone recovered quite well despite of that



Nov 05, 2017 at 09:10 AM
tdlavigne
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p.1 #8 · p.1 #8 · Any tips on how to use my first monolight (godox ad600) I'm lost


Double check your ISO would be my first suggestion. Second would be to ask what apertures are you shooting at? At 600w/s the Godox isn't terribly powerful. You shouldn't be overexposed if you're at 1/320 and 1/256 power. Unless you're shooting at f1.4 and ISO 1600 or the likes

As has been stated already, there's several factors that play into the exposure when using strobes: power, aperture, ISO, SS, and dont forget distance of light to subject. A light meter would probably make all this more simple for you though. Or you can just find out your camera's max sync speed (for me it's 1/200), and for me I prefer to shoot at ISO 100 in studio. Then I would just balance the aperture, and power of the light, and the distance to the subject to get the appropriate light. Depends on what you're trying to do though (shallow DOF with studio lights...ie. HSS?).




Nov 08, 2017 at 12:33 AM
Ho1972
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p.1 #9 · p.1 #9 · Any tips on how to use my first monolight (godox ad600) I'm lost


This is starting to look like one of those orphaned threads where the OP never returns.


Nov 08, 2017 at 11:40 AM







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