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jefflee
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p.2 #1 · p.2 #1 · Olympus/Panasonic


Both Panasonic and Olympus are good systems. I have 2 Gx8 & a Gx85. I've had several Oly's and may pickup an EM1 ii. One thing to be aware of is the EM1 ii has variable rate video and the Camera Store review suggests the the rates on the EM1 ii tend to drop very low with static scenes. I don't think you can by a bad M43 body, but I've found the DFD with the PL100-400 is very good (I shoot from a tripod and make sure stabilization is off for BIF"S). I shoot both video and stills so have chosen Pany for my last three cameras. I am looking at that "Nov 6 Camera" and if it is not what I want I will replace one of my Gx8 with an EM1 ii. The biggest thing about M43 is that you have to make a mental adjustment and be happy with what it can do and not seek perfection - as no system has it.


Oct 29, 2017 at 05:33 PM
savingspaces
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p.2 #2 · p.2 #2 · Olympus/Panasonic


mdmarcus wrote:
I have owned and shot both Olympus and Panasonic as well as Canon and Nikon and Sony. In my view, shooting stills and raw, as I pretty much always do, and making prints no larger than 20 inches or so, it makes little difference in what you use. For m4/3s I have owned a Pany G1, G3, GF2, GX1 (now my backup), GX7, GX8 (my current main camera), and Oly EM5 I. (I also currently own and use a Canon 6D and Sony RX100ii, so all of the 3 cameras I now use most are 20 MP.)

I once did
...Show more

Please donít shoot at F8 with m4/3? Use F4 and enjoy.




Nov 07, 2017 at 06:40 AM
mdmarcus
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p.2 #3 · p.2 #3 · Olympus/Panasonic


Savingspaces, regarding your comment, "Please donít shoot at F8 with m4/3. Use F4 and enjoy," an interesting thought, but a bit difficult with those lens zooms out to f5.6. minimum, which include some of mine..:-)



Nov 09, 2017 at 07:21 AM
Wilbus
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p.2 #4 · p.2 #4 · Olympus/Panasonic


Savingspaces got a point though. It's of course not doable with F5.6 lenses but there is almost never a need to go beyond F8. And even F8 is on the diffraction side of things. Best results are usually achieved up F5.6 or so and most lenses are good to excellent already wide open.

Stopping down to F8 for DOF is fine but much beyond that you're better of focus stacking, just like you would on a FF camera beyond F11-F16.



Nov 09, 2017 at 08:42 AM
Kit Laughlin
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p.2 #5 · p.2 #5 · Olympus/Panasonic


Can any members point me to any mini-reviews or impressions here about the GX8? I am considering adding one to the stable (currently three GX85s). I want a 4th Panny for my stills camera, but which can double as a fourth video camera when needed. Once a set a camera up for video it's a PITA to reset it for stills (lazy, I know).

GX8 anyone? I did search here, but I could not find any threads dedicated to it.



Nov 09, 2017 at 08:54 AM
Mikehit
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p.2 #6 · p.2 #6 · Olympus/Panasonic


I have little to add to the above - I have the original Oly E-M5 and the Pany GX7. I am delighted with both
My first MFT was the GX1 and comgin from Canon, I found the menus worked in pretty much he same way as Canon and within an hour I was making adjustments on the fly without taking my eye from the VF.
The Oly menus are notorious being clunky, not 'sticky (you make an adjustment) and have to start from the top again), the structure is weird and the 'info' descriptions are not always what you expect so I always advise to set up the quick menu as soon as possible and avoid menu diving. They are complicated beasts and I think the E-1 mkii is the first one where you can copy the set-up to a card for future re-installing - otherwise firmware updates can be daunting to have to set it all up again.

I have spoken to a couple of semi-pros at different time who use bother systems and a recurring theme seems to be that they prefer out of camera jpegs from Oly (slightly warmer) but prefer working with the Panasonic raw files. This is obviously personal choice.

Two functions I really like about the Olympus E-M series (and others I believe) is their 'Live Bulb' where you set up a night time shot and you can set it up so that the LCD shows the image as it is developing and stop the exposure when it is right. They also have a pretty cool automated focus bracketing (the newly announced G9 also has this). Up until the Gx8, Oly was definitely ahead on IBIS but Panasonic has caught up so that is now pretty much equal.

So for stills, there is not much to choose between them and it comes down to personal preference on the haptics and interface. I would say buy either with total confidence.
For myself, I was about to make a decision on the E-Mi mkii but the the new G9 is so tempting and may jump the head of the queue pending reviews for not other reason than the interface.



Nov 09, 2017 at 03:44 PM
bobbytan
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p.2 #7 · p.2 #7 · Olympus/Panasonic


Wilbus wrote:
Savingspaces got a point though. It's of course not doable with F5.6 lenses but there is almost never a need to go beyond F8. And even F8 is on the diffraction side of things. Best results are usually achieved up F5.6 or so and most lenses are good to excellent already wide open.

Stopping down to F8 for DOF is fine but much beyond that you're better of focus stacking, just like you would on a FF camera beyond F11-F16.


Have to agree with you and savingspaces ... diffraction starts kicking in from about f8, but if you want nice sunstars you have to stop down to f16. Some samples here.





  E-M1MarkII    LEICA DG 8-18/F2.8-4.0 lens    9mm    f/16.0    1/40s    200 ISO  






  E-M1MarkII    LEICA DG 8-18/F2.8-4.0 lens    9mm    f/16.0    1/80s    200 ISO    0.0 EV  






  E-M1MarkII    LEICA DG 8-18/F2.8-4.0 lens    11mm    f/16.0    1/200s    200 ISO    -0.3 EV  






  E-M1MarkII    LEICA DG 8-18/F2.8-4.0 lens    10mm    f/16.0    1/160s    200 ISO    0.0 EV  




Nov 09, 2017 at 03:55 PM
Wilbus
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p.2 #8 · p.2 #8 · Olympus/Panasonic


bobbytan wrote:
Have to agree with you and savingspaces ... diffraction starts kicking in from about f8, but if you want nice sunstars you have to stop down to f16. Some samples here.


D-amn! Looks great Bobby! It does make good star bursts! In fact, probably the best I've seen on m43, with the exception of, maybe, the PL 12mm F1.4 and Voigtšnder lenses. But it does look really good!
Also, excellent photos!

/Rasmus



Nov 09, 2017 at 06:22 PM
Kit Laughlin
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p.2 #9 · p.2 #9 · Olympus/Panasonic


@bobbytan: the triumph of practise over theory, I believe!


Nov 09, 2017 at 08:01 PM
bobbytan
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p.2 #10 · p.2 #10 · Olympus/Panasonic


Thank you, Rasmus and Kit. To be sure, diffraction is a real problem but the effect/softness as not as bad at f8 and less so at f16, but it's probably bad at f22. I looked at my buddy's image of the Half Dome and I could definitely see better sharpness and resolution/detail in his single image (mine was HDR):

http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/1255248/2523



Nov 09, 2017 at 08:17 PM
 

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Kit Laughlin
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p.2 #11 · p.2 #11 · Olympus/Panasonic


Even though I am a scientist and logician by training, long ago I learned to keep theoretical constraints on a leash while I tinkered and played with things ... and like the diffraction positions put by many people, there are times when these can be set aside in the pursuit of other objectives. And if a viewer has not seen (in this example) your friend's image of Half Dome, would simply appreciate yours for what it shows.


Nov 09, 2017 at 08:30 PM
Wilbus
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p.2 #12 · p.2 #12 · Olympus/Panasonic


bobbytan wrote:
Thank you, Rasmus and Kit. To be sure, diffraction is a real problem but the effect/softness as not as bad at f8 and less so at f16, but it's probably bad at f22. I looked at my buddy's image of the Half Dome and I could definitely see better sharpness and resolution/detail in his single image (mine was HDR):

http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/1255248/2523


Well, he is using the Loxia 21mm which in it self is among the best wide angles ever made and one of the biggest reasons for me to ever go FF again. That lens is one of the biggest reasons I want a wider angle for m43 with great sun bursts.

You shots are great as are his



Nov 09, 2017 at 09:04 PM
imxkal
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p.2 #13 · p.2 #13 · Olympus/Panasonic


kimknapp wrote:
For me, it was the opposite. Had the GX8 and went to the EM1.2.

Settings kept accidentally changing every time I picked up the GX8. Probably could have got around it, but I am extremely happy with the EM1.2 for birding photos.

Kim


Forgot to add about the eyecup. When my eyecup on the e-m1 fell off every time I took it out from my bag, a quick googlr seaarch showed issues with the eyecup on all the models. Mine broke off eventually which led me to selling it.



Nov 09, 2017 at 09:37 PM
Kit Laughlin
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p.2 #14 · p.2 #14 · Olympus/Panasonic


@imxkal: on both my Olys, this happened too, OMD EM5 mk i and mk ii. That is simply slack. It's not as thought they can't know about it; pretty much every article mentions it, as you say.


Nov 09, 2017 at 10:51 PM
skamaraju
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p.2 #15 · p.2 #15 · Olympus/Panasonic


Nice clean pictures Bobby.
With new Luminar 2018, you may be better off shooting at wider apertures and using their Sunray filter.



Nov 10, 2017 at 01:56 AM
bobbytan
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p.2 #16 · p.2 #16 · Olympus/Panasonic


Thanks! I am not familiar with Luminar and don't know if the sun stars will be just as good. But I like the idea of stepping back on the f-stop to f5.6 or thereabouts ... if I can still get the sun stars.

skamaraju wrote:
Nice clean pictures Bobby.
With new Luminar 2018, you may be better off shooting at wider apertures and using their Sunray filter.





Nov 10, 2017 at 04:31 PM
k-h.a.w
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p.2 #17 · p.2 #17 · Olympus/Panasonic


For the time being I'll stick with my E-M1.2 to take advantage of my FT lenses that require PDAF support.





Olympus E-M1MarkII + EC-20 2x TC + ZUIKO DIGITAL ED 300mm 1:2.8 @ ISO 200, FOCAL LENGTH 600.0 mm (600.0 mm in 35mm), FOV (1200.0 mm = 120 cm = 1.2 m in 35mm), APERTURE f/6.3, EXPOSURE TIME 0.00156s (1/640).

Not bad, not bad at all, considering a 2x TC is in the loop!

K-H.



Nov 12, 2017 at 05:01 AM
Wilbus
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p.2 #18 · p.2 #18 · Olympus/Panasonic


I wouldn't even say "not bad" but "very very good" instead! Well done K-H, great shot and great quality.


Nov 12, 2017 at 06:22 AM
bobbytan
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p.2 #19 · p.2 #19 · Olympus/Panasonic


I think the 4/3 300/2.8 ED Zuiko is as good as the best Canon, Nikon or Sony lens. Itís as sharp as the 300/4 but has much better background rendering. That and the 150/2 lens are incredibly good lenses. The downside is they are both very big and heavy.


Nov 12, 2017 at 02:00 PM
k-h.a.w
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p.2 #20 · p.2 #20 · Olympus/Panasonic


bobbytan wrote:
I think the 4/3 300/2.8 ED Zuiko is as good as the best Canon, Nikon or Sony lens. Itís as sharp as the 300/4 but has much better background rendering. That and the 150/2 lens are incredibly good lenses. The downside is they are both very big and heavy.


Thanks Bobby, I agree and would add Leica to your list.
The Oly 150/2 I still can carry and shoot handheld, the 300/2.8 only on tripod.
I am amazed about the Oly TCs EC-14 and EC-20 that I use on the 300/2.8 or the 90-250/2.8, also on tripod.
For me it doesnít make much sense to use the TCs on the 150/2 though.
It simply gets too heavy for handheld use and competes with the more versatile 90-250/2.8 or the 300/4 Pro.
I am in line pre-ordering the E-M1.3 - whenever that comes out.
Hopefully that doesnít take 4 more years.

This Townsend's Solitaire was shot with the EC-14.





Olympus E-M1MarkII + EC-14 1.4x TC + ZUIKO DIGITAL ED 300mm 1:2.8 @ ISO 400, FOCAL LENGTH 425.0 mm (425.0 mm in 35mm), FOV (850.0 mm = 85 cm = 0.85 m in 35mm), APERTURE f/4.5, EXPOSURE TIME 0.001s (1/1000).

K-H.



Nov 12, 2017 at 04:14 PM
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