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Exposure issues driving me crazy!
  
 
buckeyethomas
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p.1 #1 · p.1 #1 · Exposure issues driving me crazy!


Still getting used to my new 6D, and decided today to take it to a car show. As with most shows, some cars are out in the sun. Some out in the shade. Also some light to overcast cloud cover, was sprinkled in throughout the day. Needless to say, a lot of variables when it came to lighting.

What I'm looking for, is some best practices from those who shoot in Manual Mode, on how to not have to constantly adjust, so that your pictures come out over or underexposed.

I know corrections can be made in post production, but was just looking for some tips.

Thanks in advance!



Aug 27, 2017 at 09:52 PM
Mataz426
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p.1 #2 · p.1 #2 · Exposure issues driving me crazy!


Histogram, highlight warning, chimping. You have to use those. If you're shooting at base ISO as long as you don't overexpose, you should be fine to bring up the shadows in post.


Aug 27, 2017 at 10:02 PM
RobDickinson
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p.1 #3 · p.1 #3 · Exposure issues driving me crazy!


In changing conditions you really need to keep an eye on the meter and adjust but often you cant compensate or shift fast enough. This is why we gave a meter...

tbh its probably best if you switch to Av and your favorite trust-able metering mode ( I prefer center weighted.



Aug 27, 2017 at 10:04 PM
snapsy
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p.1 #4 · p.1 #4 · Exposure issues driving me crazy!


I would recommend learning how to use spot metering. It will yield the most consistent results in difficult shooting situations like the one you encountered.


Aug 27, 2017 at 10:05 PM
RobDickinson
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p.1 #5 · p.1 #5 · Exposure issues driving me crazy!


snapsy wrote:
I would recommend learning how to use spot metering. It will yield the most consistent results in difficult shooting situations like the one you encountered.



good luck with that



Aug 27, 2017 at 10:35 PM
Milan Hutera
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p.1 #6 · p.1 #6 · Exposure issues driving me crazy!


In changing light, forget about manual mode. Period. You switch to manual mode either when the light is constant, but the overall conditions might fool the camera meter (like indoor arena where light is of the same intensity, but there are light/dark areas) or when you absolutely know what you are doing and want to achieve something particular.

Go Av and +2/3 of exposure compensation. Watch your shutter speed and ISO settings. This works on Canon since the Dark Ages. That way you will open up the shadows a bit and the headroom in highlights is still quite large so you can bring them down in post processing.

I shoot Av + exposure compensation as needed 98% of the time.



Aug 27, 2017 at 11:00 PM
ross attix
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p.1 #7 · p.1 #7 · Exposure issues driving me crazy!


If you are Caucasian, take a reflected reading off your hand (in the same lighting hitting the car) and open up 1 stop from there. Manual mode obviously.

There are so many variables in that scenario, not the least of which is the car's color.






Aug 27, 2017 at 11:27 PM
Paul Mo
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p.1 #8 · p.1 #8 · Exposure issues driving me crazy!




Milan Hutera wrote:
In changing light, forget about manual mode. Period. You switch to manual mode either when the light is constant...


Whereas I am the complete opposite.

I shoot manual all the time. Canon's auto modes being too random for me.

OP, I find exposures for the light (cars in sunlight) and exposures for the shadows (cars in shadows/shaded areas).

So you have two exposures with some scenes falling between the two and requiring trimming - smaller adjustments of ISO, aperture or shutter speed.

You might, for example, have a sunlight exp. of 1/800th at f5.6 @ 100 iso. Shadows 1/200th at f5.6 @ 800 iso. Familiarity with your camera will see you changing settings quicker and quicker.

If you're new to photography, go for a walk in your neighbourhood and practice. And keep using manual until it's second nature.



Aug 28, 2017 at 12:07 AM
arbitrage
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p.1 #9 · p.1 #9 · Exposure issues driving me crazy!


Changing light and presumably changing car colours will make exposure decisions difficult and constantly adjusting. No mode is really better than another. In M you can pick a variable to change to keep it simple (like ISO or SS) and try to get a sense of where you should be. Probably for your car situation you would need to sort of figure out 4 basic exposures (sunny dark car, sunny light car, shady dark car and shady light car). If your camera has C modes on the dial you can use those in addition to the M setting to have each of those exposures set and just change between the modes as needed. This is one huge benefit of the 1 series where you can use a small M-Fn button right next to the shutter button to cycle between M and the C modes.


Aug 28, 2017 at 12:32 AM
Andrew J
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p.1 #10 · p.1 #10 · Exposure issues driving me crazy!


Turn blinkies on. Get the highlights to blink and then stop down 1/3 to 2/3 of a stop. Unless your background stays fairly constant I just don't see any other way.


Aug 28, 2017 at 12:55 AM
 

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Paul Mo
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p.1 #11 · p.1 #11 · Exposure issues driving me crazy!


arbitrage wrote:
This is one huge benefit of the 1 series where you can use a small M-Fn button right next to the shutter button to cycle between M and the C modes.


That's a good point and one I use with the 1DX - having the 'main' exposure in M (Manual) and assigning the second exposure to M-Fn. Very useful.




Aug 28, 2017 at 01:03 AM
Ferrophot
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p.1 #12 · p.1 #12 · Exposure issues driving me crazy!


All the above methods work, and as experience is gained each becomes fairly reliable. I like Arbitrage's method. but just going to Av and constantly checking the blinkies or historgram also works well for me. The problem with the auto modes is that these get effected by seemily all manner of objects in the image and so can be a bit unpredictable. An advantage of the 6D is the good exposure latitude provided nothing is blown out.
Things get much more difficult if there is overcast weather and dull subjects. Getting the bright sky just under the blinking point and then lifting the subject requires precise exposure.



Aug 28, 2017 at 01:32 AM
RustyBug
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p.1 #13 · p.1 #13 · Exposure issues driving me crazy!


ross attix wrote:
If you are Caucasian, take a reflected reading off your hand (in the same lighting hitting the car) and open up 1 stop from there. Manual mode obviously.

There are so many variables in that scenario, not the least of which is the car's color.



You may want to run some test shots for using your hand as a "metering" card to figure out what how much you should compensate ... but, you aren't too likely to forget to have your hand with you.

Metering off the grass can be another proximal strategy. This was my go to metering approach for years back when shooting chromes. As long as the grass is receiving the same light (i.e. not shadowed vs. sunlight, etc.).

If you aren't in the grass, but on concrete or asphalt, you can do the same ... but might have to do a few histo chimps to adjust for the tonal value of the asphalt (which can range from nearly black to very light gray) or concrete.

As you already have figured out, the reflections and dominant color schemes can fool your camera's reflective metering. So, the key is to use an incident meter (as if anyone does that anymore) to measure the light falling onto your subject, or to use your reflective meter against a "known" value ... i.e. your hand, the grass, asphalt, concrete, or a gray card (plenty of pocket card options, too.)

HTH




Aug 28, 2017 at 02:42 AM
RobDickinson
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p.1 #14 · p.1 #14 · Exposure issues driving me crazy!


Yeah thats just right, walk out onto the racetrack with your light meter and check the dark and light bits for exposure...

Then as the cars come past at 200mph you can quickly change between f4 1/200 and f11 1/4000th because your a boss.

oh and that light level will obviously stay the same all day..




Aug 28, 2017 at 03:09 AM
RustyBug
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p.1 #15 · p.1 #15 · Exposure issues driving me crazy!


RobDickinson wrote:
Yeah thats just right, walk out onto the racetrack with your light meter and check the dark and light bits for exposure...



Car show ... bunch of expensive, pretty shiny things sittin' around with folks walkin' around, droolin' all over 'em. Light glinting & reflecting off all the chrome and metallic flake paint to wreak havoc with a meter.

Besides, even if it was a racetrack setting, you don't have to be next to the subject to meter the light that is falling on it. You just need to meter similar light (diff location is fine).




Aug 28, 2017 at 03:46 AM
RobDickinson
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p.1 #16 · p.1 #16 · Exposure issues driving me crazy!


I was joking

Honest best answer is find a camera with an EVF that shows what you will get and a histogram too.



Aug 28, 2017 at 04:09 AM
RustyBug
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p.1 #17 · p.1 #17 · Exposure issues driving me crazy!


RobDickinson wrote:
I was joking

Honest best answer is find a camera with an EVF that shows what you will get and a histogram too.


I thought that, but then I wasn't sure if you misread. That, and I was wondering if maybe you kiwi's didn't have car shows.

BTW ... fyi, I was aboard HMNZS Otago, circa 1983 between Auckland & Wellington. Loved the rum for lunch.




Edited on Aug 28, 2017 at 04:26 AM · View previous versions



Aug 28, 2017 at 04:20 AM
RobDickinson
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p.1 #18 · p.1 #18 · Exposure issues driving me crazy!


Auckland to wellington is mostly land so you must have had a lot of rum


Aug 28, 2017 at 04:25 AM
RustyBug
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p.1 #19 · p.1 #19 · Exposure issues driving me crazy!


RobDickinson wrote:
Auckland to wellington is mostly land so you must have had a lot of rum


Sadly, only 1 cup per day ... pass the cup around and dip the rum out of a metal bucket. Best rum I've ever had. Nothing like it since.



Aug 28, 2017 at 04:28 AM
dhphoto
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p.1 #20 · p.1 #20 · Exposure issues driving me crazy!


I can't see the point of having automatic modes designed to help you and not using them.

Even P mode coupled with exposure compensation could easily do what the OP wants, it's not cowardly to use these modes if they get the results you need.

On the 6D you can even use Manual with auto ISO although unfortunately it doesn't do exposure comp in this mode like the later ones do

I generally need f8 or f11 for my tripod mounted work so I'm perfectly happy to use Av and exp comp and check the histogram in changing light, works well, it's what it's for.



Aug 28, 2017 at 06:51 AM
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