rdeloe Offline Upload & Sell: Off
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On my A7R, I can get more movement than the lens and sensor can handle using dual Mirex adapters and an SMC Pentax-A 645 35mm. Have a look at this image: http://www.robdeloephotography.com/Image-Galleries/Guelph/i-fQtjh38/A
It's hard to see on this tiny web version, but at 100%, or even a good sized print, you'd be able to tell that the spire at the top of the church has been mangled by distortion. This is 17mm, the most shift I've ever used on this setup. You can get a lot more with two adapters. You might get more if you used a Pentax 6x7 lens, but I doubt it because you'd be getting into mechanical vignetting range.
By the way, a cheaper way to get the independent movements is to make one of the adapters just a shift. If you rarely or never need tilt and swing, for example, then this is a good solution. For example, you could have tilt and shift on the 645 lens adapter and shift only (with rotation of course) on the Sony end. See below for this on a Fuji.
OK, as for Fuji, I've been recording results over on this thread:
https://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/1482525/0#13988958
I started it focusing on Olympus, but I added some data from my Zeiss 21 and a Takumar.
Bottom-line is with some lenses you can get some good shifts happening, but you face the same constraints as on full frame if you use full frame lenses on APS-C cameras. As you'll see at that thread, 10mm is probably your upper limit (but remember 10mm on APS-C is like 15mm on full frame -- so that's a lot). Some lenses are better than others. The Zeiss 21/2.8 ZF was not good. Those ones have lots of field curvature already and weird mustache distortion. I had better results shifting on my tiny Olympus 21/3.5. Could be it was just my lens but I doubt it.
Interestingly, an option to consider is 645 lenses on APS-C. I owned a set anyway, so I just had to buy a Fotodiox Canon-Fuji shift adapter (an excellent piece of kit by the way). That gave me tilt independent from shift on my X-T2, and the huge image circle of the 645 lenses. The benefit is more that you're not shifting to the edges rather than that you're getting a lot more shift. You do get a lot more... but at an extreme angle things start to get strange, and there's still mechanical vignetting to deal with eventually.
For myself, I've cued up a nice set of Olympus lenses that will be my "Fuji" shift kit (21/35, 28/2.5, 50/1.8 and 85/2). They're all tiny and share 49mm filters. I can't speak to the shift capabilities of the 28 and the 85 because they're in the mail!) However, I'm optimistic.
The problem right now is the tilt-shift adapter. I bought a Kipon Olympus to Fuji t/s. My copy was a total piece of crap, but others have reported that they have good ones, so I'm getting a replacement from the vendor. I'll try to update this thread if it works. Key is I asked the seller to test the adapter at both ends to make sure it works before shipping! If you go this way, you'd be back to tilt and shift not independent (but this is not my main rig for that so that's OK).
wallpapervikin wrote:
Have just seen this post and have a very similar query...
rdeloe, I also have a Sony A7RII and have a Hcam Master (Canon - Sony tilt/shift adapter the same as the Mirex) and also have the Pentax 645 35mm.. Are you able to give me any idea as to how much movement you can get with this "double" Mirex combination? The thought of having "independent" rise/fall and shift is really appealing..
I am able to get that with the Canon 24mm TS-E II (having preset its aperture to f11) by using the movements on the adapter as well as the movements on the lens... To get this with the Pentax 645 35mm, I would have to look at purchasing a second adapter like you have done..
My main issue is running into mechanical vignetting from combining two adapters..
Also, like yourself, I am interested in what combination would work with the Fuji XT-2 which I am interested in purchasing. Using a full frame lens like the Zeiss 21mm, any idea how much shift is able to be achieved? Is it similar to using a Canon full frame and one of their dedicated TS-E lenses? In the 10-12mm range? Or likely much less?
Thanks in advance, any help or advice you could give would be greatly appreciated!...Show more →
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