Scott Stoness
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jdc562 wrote:
I am disappointed at the prejudice and other misinformation in some of these posts. I spent two weeks in Cuba several years ago. My priority was learning about Cuba; photography was secondary. I was on a cultural tour arranged through Road Scholar--totally legal under U.S. law, no sneaking required. (I'm a U.S. citizen.) The cost, including lodging, most meals, transportation within Cuba, and RT airfare from Miami was about $5,000 for the two weeks. That is not expensive. Unlike most tours, this one went almost from one end of Cuba to the other. Cuba is a big country, not some little tourist island. We got to experience the huge diversity of cultures and histories along the 700 mile-long island. Anyone who thinks Cuba is represented by Havana, Trinidad, and touristy Vinales is deluding themselves. Elkhornsun is right to avoid regimented tours, but there are alternative kinds of tours that give you more opportunities, not less. This includes tours where most lodging is in private homes--Cuban B&Bs, which are much smaller and closer to the home family than most U.S. B&Bs. On my particular tour I went to many places I would have missed going on my own. Cubans are very friendly, open, and honest. I talked with Cubans from all walks of life: mechanics, farmers, shop keepers, cowboys, cooks, teachers, musicians, painters, Santeria practitioners, diplomats, architects, cultural conservationists, nature conservationists, rural villagers, and so on. I was engrossed the whole time.
I learned a lot about Cuba--learning being my priority. Contrary to the anti-tour prejudice, much of our tour time was on our own--free to explore at will. On the drives between places, our very well educated Cuban guide told us about the history, cultures, and layout of each upcoming destination. You won't get this on your own. This orientation made each place more interesting. But we were on own for hours at each destination--free to wander however we wanted and photograph wherever we wanted. My favorites were small family farms, farmers markets, impromptu mechanic's places, little music venues, and artisans' shops and stalls. Sorry to contradict you, Scott, but Cuba is the safest Latin country I have ever visited--and I have lived in Central America for 16 years and traveled all over. In some big Cuban cities there are beggars, but they are not robbers. A simple "no gracias" works. I walked through back alleys and run-down areas, and never once felt threatened.
Going to Cuba is not like going to a European country. Cuba does not have a big infrastructure of transportation and other support for easily moving around the 700 mile-long country. The big advantage of the right kind of tour is that the logistics are done by someone else, leaving you free to concentrate on seeing the country, talking with people, doing photography, and learning. Just choose the tour carefully for getting what you want. Beware that the biggest ripoffs for photographers are the very expensive photo tours led by gringos that charge you high prices to take photos of 50's cars in Havana, run-down back-streets of Havana, and a side trip to nearby Trinidad.
Because Cuba is so big and diverse, even a two-week trip is really just preparation for return trips.
I put together a photo "postcard" blog for my friends that you can see here: cubit.smugmug.com/Cuba...Show more →
A tour that goes to Havana will be very different than a tour that goes to rural Cuba. And a short tour vs a long tour vs a combined family/photography tour is different as well. A focus on landscape/wildlife is different than a focus on cultural pictures. Each warrant a different approach. And your personal style/pursuit will push you in one direction or another.
Photographing Havana without a guide is not difficult but for non Spanish speaking people it is awkward. On your own you cannot ask for permission to photograph if you don't know Spanish. Its hard to know when you are being rude when you are not familiar with the culture. So if you are like me - short on time, shy, and lacking in Spanish - hire a guide for Havana. Havana for me was like Mexico was in the early 80's - anyone in a big tourist town who spoke English was generally trying to sell a time share (obviously not possible in Cuba - replace by cigars or girls ...) or some other scam. I don't like to be constantly on the vigil for someone being friendly for ulterior motives. This was not a prejudice but a reality based on my personality and experience. Some people enjoy the back and forth based on ulterior motives - I do not. Sure if you have time and the desire to stay with a Cuban family this would result in more actual friendly discussion but I am focussed on landscape and am up at 4am and gone and sleep in the day when I am vacationing - people, old cars and broken down houses are not my cup of tea.
Renting a car to self tour rural Cuba is challenging because of the lack of services (gas, repairs, tows), lack of English speaking people, and expectations regarding the need to share your car. You can do it but as I indicated in my example, you will sometimes encounter a surprising situation where you innocently drive down a road and run into a soldier with a gun. Or you are expected to stop to give a policeman or local a ride. While the gun situation has also happened to me in the USA taking pictures of birds near the Mexican border, in the USA I have faith in the legal system and was not as fussed. So unless you have lots of time and speak Spanish I would suggest a tour for rural Cuba.
Cuba is definitely not on my top list for a family vacation. We booked the best hotel in the Varadero district. We brought a good attitude and lots of money for tips and toothbrushes/toothpaste... stuff because we knew that the supplies were limited. The service was terrible - every day we had to clear off our breakfast table from previous guests while the staff did nothing. The food was terrible - there was only one day with chicken - never any beef. The service was awful - the slide pool shut down, they took the volleyball away at a time that they deemed appropriate, the advertised kids club was not staffed. In short it was the worst vacation we every had in the Caribbean. So I would not go to Cuba again for family fun. I would go alone or with some guys for fishing expecting rough conditions or on a guided photography tour without family. The staff at the hotel had a very communist attitude even though we brought strong positive expectations.
I would go to Cuba again but i would do it with a tour guide just because of the awkwardness of not understanding their rules/laws, not being good at Spanish, and my last feeling (alone in my rental car) that everyone saw me a a very strange person (driving a large car, taking pictures, not stopping to give people rides in my spare seat) and at every turn I felt nervous that I was going somewhere I was not supposed to go.
These are facts and opinions based on experience.
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