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Archive 2016 · IS --> 2 stop = ???

  
 
OntheRez
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p.1 #1 · p.1 #1 · IS --> 2 stop = ???


Help me out here with this IS thing. For a long time I just ignored the whole discussion. I either lived with primes: the 300mm f/4.0, the 400mm f/5.6, the incomparable 135mm f/2.0, and the old “holy trinity” 16-35mm, 24-70mm, and 70-200 each f/2.8 - all used, all older. Couldn’t afford anything “better.” So I didn’t get what IS was for.

I finally - due to increased skill and starting to get paid better for my work - bought the 70-200mm f/2.8L IS v.II, one of the finest lens yet made. Since it was/is used mostly for action, sports, animals, birds, etc., I just left the IS off because in my experiments I couldn’t see any benefit.

Then I got tired of carrying the 300 and the 400, and by golly this fancy, all shinny, all dancing, increase your sex appeal 100-400mm f/4.5-f/5.6L IS v.11 with three (count em), 3 IS modes. “3 stops of improvement!”

I know this is heretical and I’ll get fried at the stake, but I’m just not seeing any thing amazing here. Say I’m using the 100-400 at IS0 6400, f/5.6, 1/60? Did I get 2 stops of “improvement?” What got better? I’d have loved even a half click of Tv, a half stop of f for greater FOV. Are you saying I already got those improvements even though I can’t see it?

So once again IS --> 2 stop =

Robert



Dec 21, 2016 at 12:02 PM
jcolwell
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p.1 #2 · p.1 #2 · IS --> 2 stop = ???


Modern IS gives you about three or four stops. This means that if you can get sharp handheld images from a (for example) 300/4 lens at 1/500 sec without IS, then you can get equally sharp handheld images at 1/60 sec with a three-stop IS running on the same lens (1/500 > 1/250 > 1/125 > 1/60). With the same aperture and ISO for both cases.

Edited on Dec 21, 2016 at 12:13 PM · View previous versions



Dec 21, 2016 at 12:10 PM
Sharlin
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p.1 #3 · p.1 #3 · IS --> 2 stop = ???


I'm not quite following. Without IS, you couldn't use the 100-400 at 1/60s handheld, not without incurring significant motion blur due to camera shake. You'd have to increase shutter speed and compensate either by raising ISO or increasing the aperture size (neither of which option might be available to you if you're already at 6400 and 1/5.6 respectively.)


Dec 21, 2016 at 12:12 PM
John_T
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p.1 #4 · p.1 #4 · IS --> 2 stop = ???


Maybe these links will be helpful...

http://cpn.canon-europe.com/content/education/technical/image_stabilization_lenses.do

http://cpn.canon-europe.com/content/education/infobank/lenses/image_stabilisation.do



Dec 21, 2016 at 12:25 PM
Roland W
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p.1 #5 · p.1 #5 · IS --> 2 stop = ???


In your initial post, your mention of the 3 IS modes is worded almost like the mode switch is used to give you 1 or 2 or 3 stops of improvement. If that is a confusion point for you, know that is totally wrong. The amount of maximum improvement with IS on is a fixed thing, and for your two nice new lenses of the latest design, that maximum amount is 3 to 4 stops of improvement. The mode switch is to select modes of operation, and you should use Mode 1 for everything until you come to a situation where the other modes can help. The manual that came with the lenses explains the different modes very well.

As mentioned above, you only see improvement if you are shooting at low shutter speeds that would prevent an ordinary person from getting sharp results while hand hold the lens. I suggest you do an experiment with your 100-400 set to 400 mm, and shoot 4 to 6 shots at each whole shutter speed change as you lower from 1/400 on down to 1/10 of a second. At each of those shutter speeds, do half with IS on, and half with IS off. You should see dramatic differences once you get down around 1/50 of a second, with some of the ones with IS off having an obvious loss of sharpness. Do that all using IS Mode 1, which is the mode you should use except for the special situations the other modes can help with. You will see occasional shots with IS off that are fairly sharp by accident, but all the ones with IS on will be sharp until you get down to a really low shutter speed. Your results also vary depending on how good you are at hand holding, and you might need to check all the way down to 1/4 second before the ones with IS on show definite loss of sharpness.

If you are shooting birds in motion, or other action, where you need to bring up the shutter speed a ways to freeze their motion, you will likely not notice any improvement from the IS, because your shutter speed is doing things on its own. For more static situations, combined with lower light, when you need to lower the shutter speed to even get the shot, the IS becomes very valuable.



Dec 21, 2016 at 12:40 PM
jasonpatrick
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p.1 #6 · p.1 #6 · IS --> 2 stop = ???



If you've been successful using 1/focal length as your general rule for sharp images (outside of things that are moving faster than that), you would use 1/400 as a minimum for a 400mm focal length. 2 stops would allow you to go down to 1/100. 3 stops would be closer to 1/50.

Your baseline has to be what you've been successful getting shots at previously. If you need higher than 1/focal length to get sharp images, your baseline will start where you've been. Likewise with being steadier.




Dec 21, 2016 at 01:02 PM
gdanmitchell
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p.1 #7 · p.1 #7 · IS --> 2 stop = ???


It actually does work, and it allows you to hand hold photographs in much lower light than you otherwise could. I have the 100-400 II and the IS on the lens is effective.


Dec 21, 2016 at 01:07 PM
uz2work
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p.1 #8 · p.1 #8 · IS --> 2 stop = ???


Roland W wrote:
If you are shooting birds in motion, or other action, where you need to bring up the shutter speed a ways to freeze their motion, you will likely not notice any improvement from the IS, because your shutter speed is doing things on its own. For more static situations, combined with lower light, when you need to lower the shutter speed to even get the shot, the IS becomes very valuable.


The above quote makes an important point. IS can be very useful in reducing the effects of camera shake and with allowing you to shoot at slower shutter speeds without having the effects of camera shake that otherwise would be present without IS. But IS does absolutely nothing to reduce motion blur caused by a rapidly moving subject. If you, without IS, needed to be shooting at 1/500 to freeze the action, you will still need to be shooting at 1/500, even with IS, to freeze the subject.






Dec 21, 2016 at 01:17 PM
Jeff Nolten
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p.1 #9 · p.1 #9 · IS --> 2 stop = ???


Bryan at TDP provides examples of his IS tests in his lens reviews.

I can say that when I got my 24-105 IS in 2006, my keeper rate went up significantly even at these normal range focal lengths. Many of my lens upgrades have been to get the IS version. I think the only non-IS lens I regularly use hand held is a 20 mm prime on FF.

Regarding your use, if you got a sharp image with the 100-400 at 400 mm and 1/60 second, then I'd say you are taking advantage of IS. I find the IS on the 100-400 helps me put the focus point in the right place before I shoot. The old 100-400 had a 2 stop rated IS; an improvement with the new lens is the rating is up to 4 stops. Every bit helps.

Oh and I have a pair of 12x Canon IS binoculars that are a joy to use. Push the button and the bouncy bird steadies right up. Love IS, an under appreciated tech.



Dec 21, 2016 at 02:14 PM
ggreene
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p.1 #10 · p.1 #10 · IS --> 2 stop = ???


I shoot sports and I leave IS on for the viewfinder stabilization. I find it helps in keeping the AF point on target especially when the subject is farther away and smaller in the VF. I've not found any delays in IS starting up that could potentially make me miss a shot with the lenses I have. I've also seen no impact as far as battery use but I'm using a 1DX/1DX2 combo with a lot of power.


Dec 21, 2016 at 02:20 PM
splathrop
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p.1 #11 · p.1 #11 · IS --> 2 stop = ???


Anticipating some low light Christmas family shots, I just did a rough and ready comparison: my old 85mm f/1.8 compared to 85mm dialed in on my 70-200 f/2.8 II IS. The 85mm f1.8 won't be coming on the trip, despite that it does draw less unwanted attention from candid subjects. Shutter speeds will be limited to about 1/40th, and, as I suspected, there isn't any comparison to be made. The 85 f/1.8 can't get it done, and the 70-200 is superb.

Then I put the camera away, sat down at the computer, and saw your comment.



Dec 22, 2016 at 11:55 AM
OntheRez
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p.1 #12 · p.1 #12 · IS --> 2 stop = ???


Thanks all,
Roland, I was a aware that the 100-400 3 clicks were for different modes, so no problem with that. A great deal of my work deals with things in motion and while I believe some IS modes are designed to assist with linear motion - say panning a car on a race track - nothing I work with is that predictable. Dang birds, flutterbys, basketball players, rattlesnakes, etc., are mostly unpredictable. When dealing with stable things (think landscape, saguaro, rocks, etc) then I usually use a tripod, but there's plenty of images that occur when I'm not all "kitted up" where a better understanding of IS would likely help.

That slap you just heard was me going DOH! Why didn't I think of systematically hand holding and keep stepping say Tv down while holding Av constant? (And you said he was a trained as a scientist?)

I got into this whole questioning thing as I was recently "volunteered" to shoot the centennial service of the Catholic church here in this small town. A worthy thing to do as it has been at the heart of the community since its inception. Also, I was impressed to learn that back in the day when PD was profoundly racist, this was the one institution in town where anyone could go.

The building has 4' thick adobe walls and 6 relatively small stained glass windows up high. There was some modern lighting along the way, but let's face it - dark in there. I had to be basically invisible while the big wigs (bishop?) did the service so I ended up in the old choir loft. I really wanted to use the 100-400, but I couldn't get below f/5.6 and even driving ISO thru the roof at 128 my shutter speeds were like 1/40. Fortunately no fast movement was taking place but still they do this neat swinging incense thing and I couldn't completely stop the motion. I dropped back to the 70-200 and f/2.8 where I was able to crawl up to ≈ 1/80 for a bit better luck.

I got some "good enough" pix out of it all, but lots of NR. Will experiment and hopefully be ready to shoot the next centennial

Robert



Dec 22, 2016 at 02:22 PM
Tapeman
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p.1 #13 · p.1 #13 · IS --> 2 stop = ???


I am a fan of IS, many of my lenses has it, I just think we are starting to have many helpful things that make it easier to take photos.
My skill level requires all the help I can get.



Dec 22, 2016 at 05:11 PM
hotdog12
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p.1 #14 · p.1 #14 · IS --> 2 stop = ???


IS is quite useful for hand holding when shooting motionless subjects. But IS does nothing to help when the subject is in motion. Sure, it minimizes camera shake, but if the subject is in motion you still get motion blur.

But IS is quite useful when shooting relatively static subjects. I done a "Hail Mary" at 1/15th sec. with the 16-35 f/4L IS in a dimly-lit auditorium. Or hand holding a 70-200 f/2.8L IS II at 1/60th sec. for interview shots.



Dec 22, 2016 at 05:43 PM
JohnBrose
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p.1 #15 · p.1 #15 · IS --> 2 stop = ???


IS is very effective, but you also have to have good technique just as you do without it. People that move fast and poke at the shutter button aren't going to be as effective versus someone that breaths correctly, moves slowely and squeezes the shutter.


Dec 22, 2016 at 06:05 PM
KKFung
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p.1 #16 · p.1 #16 · IS --> 2 stop = ???


Make sure IS is for minimize hand shake only, not for freezing motion


Dec 22, 2016 at 10:35 PM
Ian.Dobinson
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p.1 #17 · p.1 #17 · IS --> 2 stop = ???


simple , TURN THE IS OFF on the 100-400 and then see what you can get . the difference between that and 1/60th (that you say you can get) is how many stops the IS is helping you .

don't forget stuff like subject distance is a key factor . the closer the subject there the IS is having to work


if your getting 1/60th at 400mm then thats pretty dam good .



Dec 23, 2016 at 03:53 AM
OntheRez
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p.1 #18 · p.1 #18 · IS --> 2 stop = ???


Ian,

Yeah, I've mostly been running it with IS off. This all didn't really dawn on me till trying to shoot stationary/slow objects in near darkness during a ceremony. I flipped it on and off some (rather busy at the time . It did seem to me that some pix (with IS on) had more light than their f-stop would have suggested.

Having spent years with 300/400 primes, I have reasonably good technique, but there's always a bit of bobble. Based upon advice here, I start testing things systematically.

Robert



Dec 23, 2016 at 11:51 AM
jcolwell
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p.1 #19 · p.1 #19 · IS --> 2 stop = ???


OntheRez wrote:
... Based upon advice here, I start testing things systematically.


That's definitely the best approach for testing.




Dec 23, 2016 at 12:12 PM
EB-1
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p.1 #20 · p.1 #20 · IS --> 2 stop = ???


OntheRez wrote:
Help me out here with this IS thing. For a long time I just ignored the whole discussion. I either lived with primes: the 300mm f/4.0, the 400mm f/5.6, the incomparable 135mm f/2.0, and the old “holy trinity” 16-35mm, 24-70mm, and 70-200 each f/2.8 - all used, all older. Couldn’t afford anything “better.” So I didn’t get what IS was for.

I finally - due to increased skill and starting to get paid better for my work - bought the 70-200mm f/2.8L IS v.II, one of the finest lens yet made. Since it was/is used mostly for action, sports, animals, birds,
...Show more

Mode 3 on the 100-400 II is my favorite for handheld use in difficult situations. IS is only on just before exposure.

EBH



Dec 23, 2016 at 04:09 PM
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