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Fuji XT1 Long Exposure Issue Question
  
 
aorbigo
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p.1 #1 · p.1 #1 · Fuji XT1 Long Exposure Issue Question


I just got into using my Fuji XT1 for the first time today for landscape. Today I tested it for some long exposure but I seem to be running into problems. This is not the first time I tried long exposure so I'm quite familiar with the process.

What I'm having problem is that I'm getting blown highlight picture. I'm using the Fuji 14mm and 55-200 for this test.

So my base exposure at f11, ISO200 is 1/10 sec. This is with a CPL and a 3 stop ND grad. I tried taking base exposure after adding these two filters.

Then I use the Lee filter app and also another IOS app called "Long Exposure Calculator". Both apps came to a recommendation of 100 sec exposure if I use a Big Stopper.

I set my camera to manual focus mode and bulb mode. I exposed to 100 sec but I get blown picture.

I tried inside my house as well, same result.

Is there a particular setting in the camera that I'm missing here? I tried both spot metering and the averaged or whatever the middle setting is but same result.

I hope someone can help. I hope that my XT1 is not broken as normal exposure below 30 sec or if I let the camera set the shutter speed by not using a Big Stopper.



Dec 02, 2016 at 11:36 PM
darthalal
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p.1 #2 · p.1 #2 · Fuji XT1 Long Exposure Issue Question


Are you stacking the grad and CPL and the Big Stopper? CPL likely takes away some light, so if you're not using it with the Big Stopper, that will make the shutter speed math off. Have you tried just using a shorter shutter speed? Are only the natural highlights of the image blown, or are there highlights/light spots where there shouldn't be? IIRC, there was a light leak issue with some X-T1's.

This sounds like a math mistake more than a broken camera, especially if your exposures are fine when you let the camera figure things out on its own.



Dec 02, 2016 at 11:55 PM
aorbigo
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p.1 #3 · p.1 #3 · Fuji XT1 Long Exposure Issue Question


I'm stacking the filters. I have the Lee seven5 system with the CPL on the outermost portion. Next is the 3 stop hard grad to tone down the sky. I then add the Big stopper but I take note of the shutter speed before inserting the big stopper. If it is light leak will it be manifested by overexposed picture. I feel like the calculated value from the app is way higher than what I need. It's just weird that with my other brand camera before I follow the same procedure and I get a normally exposed photo.

I read somewhere that you might need to prioritize the highlight with Fuji. Maybe I should take note of that next time.



Dec 02, 2016 at 11:59 PM
fishjump
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p.1 #4 · p.1 #4 · Fuji XT1 Long Exposure Issue Question


I would only use the app(s) as a guideline to exposure. Check your histogram, and adjust from there.


Dec 03, 2016 at 12:01 AM
aorbigo
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p.1 #5 · p.1 #5 · Fuji XT1 Long Exposure Issue Question


I'm just using the app to calculate the resulting shutter speed if I use the big stopper


Dec 03, 2016 at 12:05 AM
aorbigo
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p.1 #6 · p.1 #6 · Fuji XT1 Long Exposure Issue Question


I found a thread about light leak and a way to test and it seems mine is not affected. It is also outside the SR according to some folks. It is a Graphite silver XT1. So that rule that out.


Dec 03, 2016 at 12:08 AM
aorbigo
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p.1 #7 · p.1 #7 · Fuji XT1 Long Exposure Issue Question


I'm sure I'm doing something wrong so if anyone who is doing this please share some tips and tricks. Thanks


Dec 03, 2016 at 12:36 AM
persco
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p.1 #8 · p.1 #8 · Fuji XT1 Long Exposure Issue Question


aorbigo wrote:
I'm sure I'm doing something wrong so if anyone who is doing this please share some tips and tricks. Thanks


Try this:

Take your base exposure without the CPL and 3-stop Grad, then use the calculator to determine what the total will be including the CPL (about 2 stops), the 3-stop Grad (another 3 stops) and then the Big Stopper (+10 stops). The calculator is giving you an estimate based on 10 stops of light reduction but you actually have about 15 stops or so (depending on what the CPL gives you).



Dec 03, 2016 at 10:10 AM
aorbigo
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p.1 #9 · p.1 #9 · Fuji XT1 Long Exposure Issue Question


Shouldn't the camera takes a new exposure reading once the CPL and ND grad is in place? In my previous Sony A7II camera that's how I do it.

After that new exposure reading with CPL and ND grad, I use the iPhone app to calculate the long exposure shutter speed using the Lee big stopper.

It seems like the exposure value I got from the camera (which I use as the basis to add the 10-stop filter to) seems off.

I'm not sure if there's a setting in the camera that I should do to ensure that this base value is good.



Dec 03, 2016 at 03:08 PM
persco
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p.1 #10 · p.1 #10 · Fuji XT1 Long Exposure Issue Question


aorbigo wrote:
Shouldn't the camera takes a new exposure reading once the CPL and ND grad is in place? In my previous Sony A7II camera that's how I do it.

After that new exposure reading with CPL and ND grad, I use the iPhone app to calculate the long exposure shutter speed using the Lee big stopper.

It seems like the exposure value I got from the camera (which I use as the basis to add the 10-stop filter to) seems off.

I'm not sure if there's a setting in the camera that I should do to ensure that this base value is good.


Not sure, but it seems to me that taking an exposure with 5 stops of light already blocked is the one thing you're doing that is different from what I do. I have no problem getting the right exposures on long exposure photos...



Dec 03, 2016 at 05:31 PM
 

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persco
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p.1 #11 · p.1 #11 · Fuji XT1 Long Exposure Issue Question





Dec 03, 2016 at 05:32 PM
aorbigo
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p.1 #12 · p.1 #12 · Fuji XT1 Long Exposure Issue Question


I'll try that approach next. As for metering do you use spot or the multi? If spot do you take reading on the foreground or background (sky in your sample)?

Thanks for sharing your experience. I'm also tempted to try it out with no cpl and no grad and just meter for the highlights or sky. After that I'll apply the 10 stop reduction.



Dec 03, 2016 at 06:37 PM
corposant
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p.1 #13 · p.1 #13 · Fuji XT1 Long Exposure Issue Question


aorbigo wrote:
Shouldn't the camera takes a new exposure reading once the CPL and ND grad is in place? In my previous Sony A7II camera that's how I do it.

After that new exposure reading with CPL and ND grad, I use the iPhone app to calculate the long exposure shutter speed using the Lee big stopper.

It seems like the exposure value I got from the camera (which I use as the basis to add the 10-stop filter to) seems off.

I'm not sure if there's a setting in the camera that I should do to ensure that this base value is good.


That's probably your problem.

You need to take a meter reading "as normal." Let's say it's f/8 and 1/125. Put your camera into manual, by physically turning the deals to f/8 and 1/125. Use your app or a reference chart, and let's say you're using your 10-stop filter. That means the exposure is now f/8 and 8 seconds. Put the ND filter on, and set the camera to 8 seconds. If you want to also use your CPL, you'll have to put that on separately, rotate it to where you want to to remove glare, then carefully take it off, because when you put it on over the ND filter, you won't be able to see the results anymore. Then add two stops or so more, so now it's almost 30 seconds. Then, take the photo.

If you don't put your camera into manual, or lock your exposure otherwise, it's going to try to re-meter the scene through a lot of filtration, to be "normal." If you're auto-ISO is on, it's going to boost it to its max. Whatever you get doing it this way is probably going to look like a mess.




Dec 03, 2016 at 09:38 PM
persco
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p.1 #14 · p.1 #14 · Fuji XT1 Long Exposure Issue Question


aorbigo wrote:
I'll try that approach next. As for metering do you use spot or the multi? If spot do you take reading on the foreground or background (sky in your sample)?

Thanks for sharing your experience. I'm also tempted to try it out with no cpl and no grad and just meter for the highlights or sky. After that I'll apply the 10 stop reduction.


In that above example, I metered for the sky because it was a lot brighter, then I could lift the shadows in post. But generally I start with multi metering. I'll change it depending on the scene and what I'm trying to achieve. Sometimes I forget to put it in manual after focusing and metering, before putting the filter holder on (loaded with the nd grad, 10-stopper and cpl). Then I get bad results as the camera tries to re-focus and re-meter through all the filtering.



Dec 04, 2016 at 12:09 AM
aorbigo
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p.1 #15 · p.1 #15 · Fuji XT1 Long Exposure Issue Question


I don't use auto ISO for landscape. I use lowest at 200. I experimented by metering for the sky and it seems ok. It seems the foreground is a bit darker to my taste but I need to see in Lightroom if it is really easy to recover the shadow as most people says about the xt1.

Thanks



Dec 04, 2016 at 12:53 AM
aorbigo
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p.1 #16 · p.1 #16 · Fuji XT1 Long Exposure Issue Question


I'm using manual focusing and with a cable release. Do you think it is re-metering when I lock the release (since I'm using bulb)?


Dec 04, 2016 at 12:55 AM
Lken
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p.1 #17 · p.1 #17 · Fuji XT1 Long Exposure Issue Question


Not to hijack your post but when you shoot at this long of exposure do you need to cover the eyepiece to keeping out light like you do on a DSLR?


Dec 04, 2016 at 02:55 AM
fishjump
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p.1 #18 · p.1 #18 · Fuji XT1 Long Exposure Issue Question


No need on a mirrorless.


Dec 04, 2016 at 04:27 AM
Lken
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p.1 #19 · p.1 #19 · Fuji XT1 Long Exposure Issue Question


Thanks


Dec 04, 2016 at 08:43 PM
alinajetly
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p.1 #20 · p.1 #20 · Fuji XT1 Long Exposure Issue Question


If you want to take a Long Exposure photo, go to this website and get complete information with a screen shot.
Source : https://www.howtoisolve.com/take-a-long-exposure-shot-on-iphone-ios-11/

Edited on Aug 26, 2017 at 07:10 AM · View previous versions



Aug 25, 2017 at 11:19 AM
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