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Olympus E-M1 Mk II
  
 
birdied
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p.129 #1 · p.129 #1 · Olympus E-M1 Mk II


Ernie Aubert wrote:
Surprising - in some of those, it looks like the flash is way off axis; especially the shadow of the claw on the petal in the next-to-last one. It's hard for me to imagine how that shadow could have been cast by an on-camera flash!


The afternoon sun was quite bright and coming in from the left on that one .

I just got the flash sync cord, but have not tried the flash on the bracket yet. I use to always shoot with it on a bracket.

Birdie




Sep 29, 2017 at 03:24 AM
Wilbus
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p.129 #2 · p.129 #2 · Olympus E-M1 Mk II


bobbytan wrote:
http://yourshot.nationalgeographic.com/profile/1010366/
https://500px.com/fotonavsjoskum
https://www.flickr.com/photos/124756394@N02/



Thanks Bobby, I was just too tired to do any searching last evening

@Birdied lovely shots! lad you're seeing some difference with trial and error even though not enough compared to your old system. I am sure you will get to where you want soon enough! Your shots are amazing!



Sep 29, 2017 at 04:36 AM
bobbytan
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p.129 #3 · p.129 #3 · Olympus E-M1 Mk II


Focus stacking and focus bracketing tips from Olympus:

http://www.getolympus.com/us/en/focus_stacking?utm_content=focus_tips_btn&utm_campaign=em_petertips_us&utm_source=email_etprm&utm_medium=email&emid&ref=CJ



Sep 30, 2017 at 02:42 PM
Wilbus
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p.129 #4 · p.129 #4 · Olympus E-M1 Mk II


@Birdied

Check this video, it's a review but fast forward to 18 minutes and 40 seconds he talks some of the C-AF and gets good results with it. He also posts small info boxes in the top right corner with +2, 0 and -2 and what he uses each for. Might be worth just testing.



Oct 01, 2017 at 07:24 AM
birdied
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p.129 #5 · p.129 #5 · Olympus E-M1 Mk II


Wilbus wrote:
@Birdied@

Check this video, it's a review but fast forward to 18 minutes and 40 seconds he talks some of the C-AF and gets good results with it. He also posts small info boxes in the top right corner with +2, 0 and -2 and what he uses each for. Might be worth just testing.



Thank you so much Rasmus. I will definitely check it out and try it. The number of shots that do not have critical focus , just slightly out of focus are so frustrating.

The link just brings me to my profile when you get a moment, pls do send the link. You have peaked my curiosity now.

Birdie



Oct 01, 2017 at 01:54 PM
kimknapp
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p.129 #6 · p.129 #6 · Olympus E-M1 Mk II


Wilbus, please repost the link. Got my curiosity up, too.
Kim



Oct 01, 2017 at 03:06 PM
bobbytan
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p.129 #7 · p.129 #7 · Olympus E-M1 Mk II


And me ....


Oct 01, 2017 at 03:35 PM
Wilbus
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p.129 #8 · p.129 #8 · Olympus E-M1 Mk II


Oh crap!

@birdied
@kimknapp
@bobbytan

My mind is all over the place thinking about cameras, lenses and kayaks at the moment which led me to completely forget to include the link in the post!

https://youtu.be/wq-f_e7C2sY?t=1125

The link there should set you all on the right time, 18:45 to be exact when he starts talking about C-AF.

Like I said, he seems to be getting good to really good results so it might be worth testing and learning. I don't have the E-M1.2 my self so can't guarantee anything!

I am getting better and better results with my E-M1 with some practice though but just like you said Birdied, the amount of "just slightly out of focus shots" is quite annoying. It should be a lot better with the E-M1.2 though!

Let me know how it goes guys, wish all the luck!

/Rasmus



Oct 02, 2017 at 12:52 PM
birdied
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p.129 #9 · p.129 #9 · Olympus E-M1 Mk II


Rasmus, thank you so much for the link . I am going to try and see if my tack sharp rate improves?
My findings are much like his for the auto focus performance. Good light and nice contrast and the camera does very well. How I wish I always had those conditions

I have also noticed how the shot will look tack sharp on the camera screen , but not so once you look at it on the computer. This has me really wondering how that happens. What is the Olympus camera software doing to produce those tack sharp images that don't exist on the raw file ?

Birdie



Oct 02, 2017 at 01:41 PM
kimknapp
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p.129 #10 · p.129 #10 · Olympus E-M1 Mk II


Birdie,
I have seen this, too.
A great example was a shot I took last week of a trumpeter swan with a band on its leg.
It was a very long shot using the 300 and the 1.4tc. When I reviewed it in the viewfinder the numbers on the band were amazingly sharp. Later, when reviewing it in LR, it was not so sharp.
I am using raw images and I suspect that the image I saw in the viewfinder was a sharpened jpg. I was able to sharpen the raw file as much in LR as what it looked like in the viewfinder.
That was a really dramatic example. Other times, the viewfinder image actually didn't look as good as the raw in LR and, as I think about it, I think the camera was using too much noise reduction in the jpg version (pasty, low detail, look)
Purely speculation...

Kim



Oct 02, 2017 at 02:56 PM
 

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Wilbus
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p.129 #11 · p.129 #11 · Olympus E-M1 Mk II


birdied wrote:
Rasmus, thank you so much for the link . I am going to try and see if my tack sharp rate improves?
My findings are much like his for the auto focus performance. Good light and nice contrast and the camera does very well. How I wish I always had those conditions

I have also noticed how the shot will look tack sharp on the camera screen , but not so once you look at it on the computer. This has me really wondering how that happens. What is the Olympus camera software doing to produce those tack sharp images that
...Show more

My pleasure, hope some of it helps but I suspect you are already very aware of how the camera focuses, as you say, good light and good contrast and I suspect it, like my E-M1.1 focuses well. Let me know if you see any changes though!

As for your and @kimknapp issues with things appearing sharp on the camera display and not when enough so on the computer, meaning tack sharp rather then "almost sharp" I have the same trouble with my E-M1. I don't know if it has something to do with the display being slightly too low res to be able to show it completely or what the problem is. But I too often, especially with BIF now (when testing that) I get a lot of shots that I think are spot on but are slightly off.

As far as Lightroom goes, I know the workflow of that program is very simple and very well laid out but it really doesn't handle the Olympus files all that great. Especially not when it comes to details.

I suggest you give Capture One Pro a try, it's a 30 day free trail so you got nothing to loose.
I handles details much better as well as some other things. Only problem I see it doesn't handle the colors with the default profile as well, often given too much contrast and saturation and sometimes too much reds. But it depends on what one shoots. Give it a try and give it a few hours. It is more complex then Lightroom, not quite as well laid out but more powerful when it comes to getting the quality you want.

Of course it doesn't help if the file is out of focus or slightly out of focus but I always get sharper images from Capture One Pro.



Oct 04, 2017 at 06:10 AM
birdied
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p.129 #12 · p.129 #12 · Olympus E-M1 Mk II


Wilbus wrote:
My pleasure, hope some of it helps but I suspect you are already very aware of how the camera focuses, as you say, good light and good contrast and I suspect it, like my E-M1.1 focuses well. Let me know if you see any changes though!

As for your and @kimknapp@ issues with things appearing sharp on the camera display and not when enough so on the computer, meaning tack sharp rather then "almost sharp" I have the same trouble with my E-M1. I don't know if it has something to do with the display being slightly too low res
...Show more


Rasmus, I have spent the last few days trying +2 with the hummers and the butterflies. In conjunction with the in camera focus limiter, I am seeing a definite improvement in acquiring focus . Seeing a minimal improvement in the reduction of out of critical focus shots, but nothing to warrant saying it really helps. As you are finding, moving subjects that quickly change relationship to the focal plane , is a real weak spot of the camera in my opinion.
If the subject is flying straight across an area , and you keep the focus point on the subject it seems to perform much better. Small, quick and erratic subjects can be a challenge with a DSLR. They are more so with the Olympus. Not sure if the focus points are smaller, or if it all goes back to the ability to acquire focus again and again as the subject changes in relationship to the focal plane.

Butterflies in flight are extremely challenging . Using the +2 really helped getting a shot. Now they are really not critically sharp, but at least they are not just one massive motion blur . So one step in the right direction.



I will post some samples later.


I am going to download Capture One and give it a try.

Thanks again for the help and suggestions.

Birdie



Oct 04, 2017 at 02:46 PM
birdied
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p.129 #13 · p.129 #13 · Olympus E-M1 Mk II


kimknapp wrote:
Birdie,
I have seen this, too.
A great example was a shot I took last week of a trumpeter swan with a band on its leg.
It was a very long shot using the 300 and the 1.4tc. When I reviewed it in the viewfinder the numbers on the band were amazingly sharp. Later, when reviewing it in LR, it was not so sharp.
I am using raw images and I suspect that the image I saw in the viewfinder was a sharpened jpg. I was able to sharpen the raw file as much in LR as what it looked like in the viewfinder.
...Show more

I'm sorry you are experiencing this as well, but at least I know I am not crazy , at least in regards to this
I also do experience where the SCP , does not show the confirmation of the green focus square, but the shots are critically sharp. I have learned not to delete iffy shots in the camera.


Birdie



Edited on Oct 04, 2017 at 03:06 PM · View previous versions



Oct 04, 2017 at 02:52 PM
bobbytan
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p.129 #14 · p.129 #14 · Olympus E-M1 Mk II


Spot the sensor size:

http://www.43rumors.com/can-spot-camera-sensor-size-shot-full-frame-vs-m43/



Oct 04, 2017 at 03:03 PM
bobbytan
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p.129 #15 · p.129 #15 · Olympus E-M1 Mk II


Please report your findings/thoughts and post some samples. Thanx!

birdied wrote:
I am going to download Capture One and give it a try.

Birdie




Oct 04, 2017 at 03:06 PM
Wilbus
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p.129 #16 · p.129 #16 · Olympus E-M1 Mk II


birdied wrote:
Rasmus, I have spent the last few days trying +2 with the hummers and the butterflies. In conjunction with the in camera focus limiter, I am seeing a definite improvement in acquiring focus . Seeing a minimal improvement in the reduction of out of critical focus shots, but nothing to warrant saying it really helps. As you are finding, moving subjects that quickly change relationship to the focal plane , is a real weak spot of the camera in my opinion.
If the subject is flying straight across an area , and you keep the focus point on the subject
...Show more

Yeah it's a shame really, it would be perfect if it would track as it should. I tried dragonflies in flight a couple of weeks ago. I actually tried it when they landed for half a second as well but the E-M1 was a bit too slow there too. Not slow, in fact very fast, just not fast enough. Getting them in flight was out of the question but I have no idea wether a DSLR would manage that either? I haven't used a DSLR since the D700 and I know a lot has happened since then.

I'm glad you're getting improvement in acquiring focus but it doesn't help much if your shots are still barely out of focus. It sounds a lot like my BIF shots as of late, just barely out of focus. The dragonflies were more like you described, a big fuzzy blur. Glad it helped with the butterflies as well although again, not blurred but far from sharp isn't really that nice either.

I'm guessing it has got a lot to do with software or the fact that PDAF doesn't work as well on sensor as it does on the mirror? It has to be something and I don't think it has to do with lack of speed or hardware in the E-M1.2. Possibly software but they should have been able to solve that better in the years they worked with it.

Hope you like Capture One, like I said, it is very different, I don't like the GUI as much but it's the second best after Lightroom. Quality of the photos makes up for it though and most of all, the noise reduction and detail extraction is much better then Lightrooms.
Check out the "structure" slider under "clarity" settings. It's a miracle worker, specially for feathers, fur, hair etc!

/Rasmus



Oct 04, 2017 at 07:58 PM
Wilbus
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p.129 #17 · p.129 #17 · Olympus E-M1 Mk II


bobbytan wrote:
Please report your findings/thoughts and post some samples. Thanx!



What type of samples would you like? I use both LR and C1, just started my C1 subscription again and will evaluate my use of it the coming year.
I have LR due to the Adobe Photography package but my hope is I will be able to replace all this with C1 and Affinity Photo. Maybe even only Affinity Photo if I can find a good photo manager and if I learn Affinity Photo well enough. My goal is to spend more time with each photo and be more selective in which photos I chose and edit.

So, what kind of samples, findings and thoughts would you like? I've used LR since the first open beta and C1 for a couple of years (on and off).




Oct 04, 2017 at 08:03 PM
bobbytan
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p.129 #18 · p.129 #18 · Olympus E-M1 Mk II


I would like to see a comparison of an image processed/edited in LR vs C1 ... so I am able to determine if it's worthwhile for me to add or switch from LR to C1. In other words, I would like to know how/why C1 is better than LR.

In LR I could never make my images look as good as Robin Wong's images. All his review images look damn good ... super clean, very sharp with great detail and amazing clarity - scroll down page to the dragonfly images:

https://robinwong.blogspot.my/2016/09/olympus-mzuiko-30mm-f35-macro-lens.html

Wilbus wrote:
What type of samples would you like? I use both LR and C1, just started my C1 subscription again and will evaluate my use of it the coming year.
I have LR due to the Adobe Photography package but my hope is I will be able to replace all this with C1 and Affinity Photo. Maybe even only Affinity Photo if I can find a good photo manager and if I learn Affinity Photo well enough. My goal is to spend more time with each photo and be more selective in which photos I chose and edit.

So, what kind
...Show more



Oct 04, 2017 at 10:33 PM
Wilbus
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p.129 #19 · p.129 #19 · Olympus E-M1 Mk II


bobbytan wrote:
I would like to see a comparison of an image processed/edited in LR vs C1 ... so I am able to determine if it's worthwhile for me to add or switch from LR to C1. In other words, I would like to know how/why C1 is better than LR.

In LR I could never make my images look as good as Robin Wong's images. All his review images look damn good ... super clean, very sharp with great detail and amazing clarity - scroll down page to the dragonfly images:

https://robinwong.blogspot.my/2016/09/olympus-mzuiko-30mm-f35-macro-lens.html



I totally understand what you mean, and I see the same thing from Ming Theins photos in most of his blog posts.

Now, I'm not on par with their skill of course but I'll try to make some examples for you. I have made a thread of it before but will try to chose some other shots this time.


Edited on Oct 05, 2017 at 12:52 PM · View previous versions



Oct 05, 2017 at 04:26 AM
bobbytan
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p.129 #20 · p.129 #20 · Olympus E-M1 Mk II


http://www.43rumors.com/ft5-olympus-17mm-45mm-pro-lenses-will-announced-october-26/


Oct 05, 2017 at 12:51 PM
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