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Archive 2016 · Yosemite / Death Valley in January

  
 
Aztatlan
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p.1 #1 · p.1 #1 · Yosemite / Death Valley in January


In the coming January I'll be back in the US with my wife. I'm allowed up to 10 days from the trip to devote to landscape photography (The rest of it will be spent in NYC / San Fran)

Given it is winter I am leaning towards spending the time divided more-or-less equally between Yosemite and Death Valley. I've always wanted to shoot Yosemite in winter, and obviously January is a good time to visit DV. I am not concerned with finding enough to shoot in either location to fill 4-5 days per spot, however I am wondering whether there will be enough non-photography activities to keep my wife occupied for up to 4 or 5 days per park? She is fine with the outdoors but is not a passionate photographer and don't want her to be bored from spending too long in the same spot.

What is the best way to get between the two parks in winter? (Ideally departing one after sunrise and arriving at the other in advance of sunset but if this isn't possible, definitely keen on a same-day arrival even if it means missing sunset) Seems that with the mountain roads closed, it's an extremely long drive.

Any nearby places I may be overlooking as well? There are a lot of other N.Ps I'd love to visit in Winter (Bryce, Arches, Canyonlands, GC especially) but I am conscious of not spreading myself too thin. Plus on my last visit I got to some of those, albeit it was not winter then.

Interested in the thoughts of those that have spent time in these parks over winter,

Cheers




Apr 27, 2016 at 01:08 AM
Craig Gillette
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p.1 #2 · p.1 #2 · Yosemite / Death Valley in January


I guess the choices of going between parks depends on how much time you want to spend on the road and what you are willing to see (or not) during the trip. The fastest route would be to drive south on Highway 41 out of Yosemite to the 99 in Fresno and south to Bakersfield and east on Highway 58 over Tehachapi Pass. Follow 58 east to either 14 for a short stretch to 395 or on to I-15 at Barstow, choosing the entry route into Death Valley that fits your interests. The fastest would be to take I-15 to Baker and north. 395 allows to you to enter the park from the west, climbing over the mountains and having some time viewing the area of Red Rock Canyon (not the Las Vegas Red Rock) portions of the upper Mojave Desert and Owens Valley/Southern Sierra. If interested in different sorts of geology, like deserts, volcanic features, mountains, etc., then that's a somewhat more interesting route. Either route could have storm impacts if the weather is particularly bad. There can be road problems from washouts in the desert areas especially in the areas of the northern Mojave/southern Owens Valley at times so current local information might be needed to be sure a chosen route is available. If you left in a timely manner and moved right along, you might make sunset in some part of DV but it's shorter winter daylight hours so that's probably pushing your luck.

The alternative, which is much longer is to drive north out of Yosemite on the 120 to 49 (or perhaps faster?) 99, then north to I-50 or I-80 through the Lake Tahoe/Donner Pass routes. There are some potential passes before there but the chances of them being open are very low. You can then pickup Highway 395 and drive south along the eastern edge of the Sierras with a couple of other approach choices for DV as you come south either through Nevada or continuing south on 395 through the Owens Valley. Much more scenic - however, far longer (perhaps 300 miles or more, not having checked maps on it recently).

I think there is more casual "wander" about light hiking available in Yosemite Valley in winter, weather permitting but one could certainly walk around in DV as well. My wife would prefer Yosemite for that sort of thing because she isn't a desert fan.



Apr 27, 2016 at 09:54 AM
gdanmitchell
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p.1 #3 · p.1 #3 · Yosemite / Death Valley in January


Aztatlan wrote:
Given it is winter I am leaning towards spending the time divided more-or-less equally between Yosemite and Death Valley. I've always wanted to shoot Yosemite in winter, and obviously January is a good time to visit DV. I am not concerned with finding enough to shoot in either location to fill 4-5 days per spot, however I am wondering whether there will be enough non-photography activities to keep my wife occupied for up to 4 or 5 days per park? She is fine with the outdoors but is not a passionate photographer and don't want her to be bored from
...Show more

That is often a problem when a dedicated photographer travels with a non-photographer. (Lucky me — my wife is a photographer, too. And sometimes I do go alone.)

If she likes other outdoor activities, those are available in both places, though perhaps easier to access in Yosemite. In the winter there is a lot to do in Yosemite Valley: hiking, cross-country skiing (at locations up above the valley), ice skating, and more. You can even get decent dinners at a couple of spots.

Death Valley is a bit trickier. Unlike Yosemite in winter — which typically means Yosemite Valley plus trips out to side areas — Death Valley is huge, and you almost certainly have to drive, often a lot, to get to places you want to photograph. So, if she enjoys the long drives, you have that. But if you are going to hang out for a long time in these spots making photographs, and she finds that boring, this could be an issue.

What is the best way to get between the two parks in winter? (Ideally departing one after sunrise and arriving at the other in advance of sunset but if this isn't possible, definitely keen on a same-day arrival even if it means missing sunset) Seems that with the mountain roads closed, it's an extremely long drive.

It is a long drive any way you look at it. You'll probably use the southern route over Tehachapi Pass. You can do it in a day, but it is a long day.

Any nearby places I may be overlooking as well? There are a lot of other N.Ps I'd love to visit in Winter (Bryce, Arches, Canyonlands, GC especially) but I am conscious of not spreading myself too thin. Plus on my last visit I got to some of those, albeit it was not winter then.

California coast is really good in winter — I'd much rather photograph it then than in the warmer seasons.

Dan



Apr 27, 2016 at 02:14 PM
Greg Campbell
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p.1 #4 · p.1 #4 · Yosemite / Death Valley in January


I'll throw in a word for the scenic Lake Isabella route along 178 between Bakersfield and Ridgecrest. It's shorter but slower, and will probably add 20~30 minutes to the drive. The route is, IMO, much more scenic and is worth considering if you have some spare time.

I'll also suggest the 'back way' in to DV from the Ridgecrest area - via the Trona/Wildrose road. This takes you past Ballarat as you tour the length of Panamint Valley.

I don't know how your better half is going to like 4~5 days in DV. As much as I like the place, I usually 'have to go' after about 4 days or so. The landscape is certainly pretty, but I start to miss things like trees and water.... As mentioned, getting around the park takes time. Unless your wife is willing to come along, I don't know what she's gonna do besides sit around the pool and read, etc. If you two are game for some desert hiking, buy the superb "Hiking DV... " book by M. Digonnet and give it a good read before you arrive. There are dozens / hundreds of neat places to explore....

Yosemite has more attractions, but even then 5~6 days is going to test the patience of someone not 'game' to get out and tromp around. A side trip to Mariposa (while you ride the shuttle bus and shoot) is about all the area offers. I suppose it all depends on her personality and preferred activities...

Edited on Apr 28, 2016 at 12:51 PM · View previous versions



Apr 27, 2016 at 05:48 PM
gdanmitchell
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p.1 #5 · p.1 #5 · Yosemite / Death Valley in January


Greg Campbell wrote:
I'll throw in a word for the scenic Lake Isabella route along 178 between Bakersfield and Ridgecrest. It's shorter but slower, and will probably add 20~30 minutes to the drive. The route is, IMO, much more scenic and is worth considering if you have some spare time.

I'll also suggest the 'back way' in to DV from the Ridgecrest area - via the Trona - Wildrose road. This takes you past Ballarat as you tour the length of Panamint Valley.

I don't know how your better half is going to like 4~5 days in DV. As much as I like the
...Show more

I could echo much of what you write, especially concerning the amount of time in DEVA. I often photograph there for about five days at a time, sometimes more than once per year. I love the place, but photographing in the park is not an easy thing if you are serious about it. There is a lot of driving, sometimes in difficult conditions (if you go past the usual stuff), and the terrain is not easy to like for folks who aren't natural desert rats.

When I occasionally hear people refer to what I do in these places as "fun" or "play," I think of a particular trip to DEVA a few years ago on which I really understood the work part of this. After a few days of getting up before 4:00 am to drive an hour or two or more on gravel roads in the hope that I might get the right conditions for a subject, my understanding of the work nature of this activity was confirmed. (I do love doing landscape photography, but serious landscape photography mixes some moments of ecstatic joy with many hours of lesser experiences. ;-)

I've done the Lake Isabella route, too. It is more scenic, especially in the spring when the river flows through the canyon on the ascent from the west. While being more visually interesting than the often (but not always!) boring freeway over Tehachapi Pass, it may or may not warrant photographs. And, on the right days (such as spring!) the hills on the western ascent of Tehachapi can be quite something, too.

I notice that you mentioned Wild Rose Canyon Road. That route has been closed for over a year now. There was a apparently a bad washout over a year ago and budgetary and other reasons have seriously delayed repair work. It was still closed when I was there about a month ago. I do like the Ridgecrest/Trona/Panamint approach to DEVA, but most folks will have to go all the way up to 190 and cross via Towne Pass until that other route is repaired.

Dan



Apr 28, 2016 at 10:54 AM
Greg Campbell
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p.1 #6 · p.1 #6 · Yosemite / Death Valley in January


Oops. Yea, Wildrose Canyon is unfortunately closed. It's a fantastic drive and I hope they re-open it eventually.

AFAIK, the formal name of the Ridgecrest - Trona - Panamint Springs route is "Trona - Wildrose. Rd." That's what I had in mind.

This >>> https://goo.gl/maps/GnS5vB7LnPq

If the OP will be coming and going to a CA airport, this Panamint Valley route may be worth a try on one of the legs.



Apr 28, 2016 at 12:51 PM
gdanmitchell
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p.1 #7 · p.1 #7 · Yosemite / Death Valley in January


Greg Campbell wrote:
Oops. Yea, Wildrose Canyon is unfortunately closed. It's a fantastic drive and I hope they re-open it eventually.


Just between you and me, it sure looks like somebody has driven up/down that road.I'll only admit to being tempted. ;-)

Edited on Apr 28, 2016 at 06:38 PM · View previous versions



Apr 28, 2016 at 02:08 PM
chouette
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p.1 #8 · p.1 #8 · Yosemite / Death Valley in January


If you take the southern route that passes by Ridgecrest, between Ridgecrest and Death Valley there is a detour off of 178 to the Trona Pinnacles, which are some dramatic tufa formations. A fun and not too far side trip if you have time. It is accessed by a dirt road so best to have a high-clearance vehicle (but 4WD not necessary). But you might not want to take it if recent rain has made the roads muddy.

http://www.blm.gov/ca/st/en/fo/ridgecrest/trona.html



Apr 28, 2016 at 03:10 PM
Greg Campbell
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p.1 #9 · p.1 #9 · Yosemite / Death Valley in January


chouette wrote:
If you take the southern route that passes by Ridgecrest, between Ridgecrest and Death Valley there is a detour off of 178 to the Trona Pinnacles, which are some dramatic tufa formations. A fun and not too far side trip if you have time. It is accessed by a dirt road so best to have a high-clearance vehicle (but 4WD not necessary). But you might not want to take it if recent rain has made the roads muddy.

http://www.blm.gov/ca/st/en/fo/ridgecrest/trona.html


Yea, the road can be utterly impassable if wet.
But definitely a worthy destination!
https://www.flickr.com/search/?q=trona%20pinnacles
If nothing else, they are unlike any formations you'll find in DV or Yosemite.

Another good winter destination is Valley of Fire SP, located just north of Vegas.
https://www.flickr.com/search/?text=valley%20of%20fire

Whitney Portal, Alabama Hills, and Manzanar are also not too far out of the way, if DV becomes overbearing.

Here's a list of IMO 'worthy' stops between DV and Yosemite:

Mariposa Grove, Giant Sequoias on the way out of Yos.

Hwy 155 between Delano and Lake Isabella. VERY tight and snarly, and 10~30 minutes slower than the primary route through Bakersfield, but also quite pretty.

Maturango Desert Museum in Ridgecrest. http://maturango.org/

Trona Pinnacles

Darwin Falls




Apr 28, 2016 at 04:34 PM
chouette
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p.1 #10 · p.1 #10 · Yosemite / Death Valley in January


If you opt to take the longer scenic route via Lake Tahoe, you will also have the opportunity to stop at Mono Lake on your way south to Death Valley.

Either way (north or south) it is going to be a lot of driving. If you go via Lake Tahoe there will be more to see on the way but you will probably have to split the driving into two days. You might also have to deal with some winter driving conditions at the higher elevations, and will have to carry snow chains (but this would be true for most of the roads entering Yosemite as well).



Apr 28, 2016 at 08:00 PM
Aztatlan
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p.1 #11 · p.1 #11 · Yosemite / Death Valley in January


Thanks for all the thoughts and advice everyone. Some good tips here; seems as though I will need to spend some quality time in Google Maps plugging in the route suggestions to see what would work best for us. I had also half considered simply driving back to Vegas from DV and catching a flight to Fresno. Given the hassles associated with flying this probably wouldn't save us much if any actual time, but it may be a little 'easier' than driving. Thoughts?

A few of you have suggested that 4-5 days in DV might be pushing it; good feedback to have. I'm quite happy to spend 5 nights there but don't want the wife to be bored I'd perhaps consider trimming a night off each DV and Yosemite and perhaps squeezing in 2 nights in the Grand Canyon, but this does add a fairly considerable amount of driving to the plan. I really want to get Moab in, but I just can't see how I can make it work with the available time

I saw Mono Lake mentioned as well; definitely keen to shoot this and my tentative plan right now is to drive to San Fran after Yosemite - looks like it might be doable with a slight detour?



Apr 29, 2016 at 12:55 AM
Greg Campbell
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p.1 #12 · p.1 #12 · Yosemite / Death Valley in January


How about this...
Fly into San Francisco or Oakland, then hit the road.
Yosemite -> Lake Tahoe (Shopping, casinos, food, and other signs of 'civilization.') -> Mono Lake -> Bishop (Galen Rowell gallery!) -> Mammoth Mountain (ride the tram to the top for an amazing view) -> Alabama Hills -> Death Valley -> Valley of Fire SP -> Vegas. Then fly out from Vegas.
That would give you a good two day 'road trip' break in the middle of 3~5 days each at Yosemite and D.V. If DV proves too grim for your better half, you can 'Eject!' and head for Zion, only a few hours up the road from Vegas.



Apr 29, 2016 at 02:28 AM
Aztatlan
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p.1 #13 · p.1 #13 · Yosemite / Death Valley in January


Greg Campbell wrote:
How about this...
Fly into San Francisco or Oakland, then hit the road.
Yosemite -> Lake Tahoe (Shopping, casinos, food, and other signs of 'civilization.') -> Mono Lake -> Bishop (Galen Rowell gallery!) -> Mammoth Mountain (ride the tram to the top for an amazing view) -> Alabama Hills -> Death Valley -> Valley of Fire SP -> Vegas. Then fly out from Vegas.
That would give you a good two day 'road trip' break in the middle of 3~5 days each at Yosemite and D.V. If DV proves too grim for your better half, you can 'Eject!' and head for Zion,
...Show more

I probably have a fixed end-point of San Fran, as our plan is to fly SFO -> SYD to get back to Australia. My indicative flight plans were Sydney -> NYC -> Vegas, then spending the time in the parks before driving to San Fran, spending several days there and flying home. Although one could approach that same itinerary in reverse.



Apr 29, 2016 at 02:46 AM
Greg Campbell
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p.1 #14 · p.1 #14 · Yosemite / Death Valley in January


OK.
You could take a quick and cheap shuttle flight from Vegas back to S.F. That would save nearly a whole day of driving....



Apr 29, 2016 at 02:49 AM
gdanmitchell
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p.1 #15 · p.1 #15 · Yosemite / Death Valley in January


To add one data point about DEVA in January... it can be downright cold there at this time of year, surprisingly so to people who think of it as a hot and dry place. I've seen it close to freezing the pre-dawn hours in Death Valley itself in January, and it can be colder at higher elevation areas throughout the park.

Dan



Apr 30, 2016 at 09:37 AM
Aztatlan
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p.1 #16 · p.1 #16 · Yosemite / Death Valley in January


Ok, thanks everyone. I think I have the route sorted now after spending some time in Google Maps looking at all the routes suggested here. Ultimately the route I plan on taking is saying 8hr 16 min from Furnace Creek to Yosemite Valley.

However, in light of the feedback around how much time to spend in DV, I am considering booking only three nights at the Ranch there and two more nights in Las Vegas subsequent to that. That way, if my wife (or perhaps even me ) gets sick of DV we can spend some time in Las Vegas, and given it's only a couple of hours away by car returning to continue shooting isn't too hard if we want.

This does make it somewhat more appealing to fly to Fresno and drive to Yosemite, however it will ultimately come down to cost. Seems it only adds around an hour to drive there from Las Vegas compared to departing from Furnace Creek.

gdanmitchell wrote:
To add one data point about DEVA in January... it can be downright cold there at this time of year, surprisingly so to people who think of it as a hot and dry place. I've seen it close to freezing the pre-dawn hours in Death Valley itself in January, and it can be colder at higher elevation areas throughout the park.

Dan


We'll be in New York for a week at the start of the trip, we'll be prepared for the cold




May 01, 2016 at 07:31 AM
elkhornsun
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p.1 #17 · p.1 #17 · Yosemite / Death Valley in January


Death Valley in the winter is not that special and as mentioned it can be extremely cold and also very windy (windy enough to move grapefruit size rocks down the highway). I would look to Yosemite and Sequoia Kings Canyon for winter photography and include a trip to the Monterey/Big Sur area if time permits.

Two fantastic books on SF, northern CA, and Yosemite are available as used books on Amazon:

PhotoSecrets San Francisco and Northern California by Andrew Hudson
The Photographer's Guide to Yosemite by Michael Frye

Both are among the best photo guides I have encountered and invaluable for trip planning and finding the best spots and times while in these areas.

Yosemite in the areas you will be traveling inside the park is not all that cold as the elevation is not that high but you will probably encounter ice on the roads and on some of the footpaths. Good idea to take some of the grippers that fasten to shoes for safe walking on ice.



May 01, 2016 at 04:10 PM
Aztatlan
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p.1 #18 · p.1 #18 · Yosemite / Death Valley in January


elkhornsun wrote:
Death Valley in the winter is not that special and as mentioned it can be extremely cold and also very windy (windy enough to move grapefruit size rocks down the highway). I would look to Yosemite and Sequoia Kings Canyon for winter photography and include a trip to the Monterey/Big Sur area if time permits.



Hi, could you elaborate on why you feel DV is not that special in winter? I was under the impression that winter was the best time to visit.



May 01, 2016 at 05:06 PM
gdanmitchell
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p.1 #19 · p.1 #19 · Yosemite / Death Valley in January


elkhornsun wrote:
Death Valley in the winter is not that special and as mentioned it can be extremely cold and also very windy (windy enough to move grapefruit size rocks down the highway). I would look to Yosemite and Sequoia Kings Canyon for winter photography and include a trip to the Monterey/Big Sur area if time permits.


Without dissing Yosemite and the Sierra as winter photographic subjects — I have photographed there for a long time — I respectfully but strongly disagree with your characterization of DEVA in winter.

Yes, in can be cold (though usually it isn't that cold) and it can be windy (at virtually any time of the year), but winter brings...

- some of the most spectacular weather conditions, including frequent clouds (as opposed to the interminable blue skies that can come at other times), snow on the surrounding peaks, and sometimes even some rain.

- far fewer people than during the brief peak period in spring, when things can be downright crowded sometimes.

- much more comfortable temperatures than in the hot half of the year. Note that I warn of the possibility of temperatures almost as cold as freezing in the valley itself, but more typically it is rather pleasant.

Of course, perhaps I shouldn't share this... and I could continue to keep mid-winter DEVA the beautiful, quiet experience that it is... ;-)

Dan



May 01, 2016 at 06:36 PM
Craig Gillette
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p.1 #20 · p.1 #20 · Yosemite / Death Valley in January


Winter is less likely to kill you. Although historically, it was named "Death Valley" after a group of pioneers was lost there in the winter of 1849-1850. Seriously, if you'd like to see Death Valley, you go when you can. It's not bad in winter, just it can be windy and comparatively cold and there are the odd storms now and then. Shorter days can reduce the available sightseeing time. It is desolate, and there aren't a lot of alternatives to desert landscape, as spectacular as much of it is.

This last fall we went on a trip to to the Grand Canyon region and chose to visit the Petrified Forest. It's a longish drive, restricted hours and pretty boring to and from. Not having been there and with roadwork being done, we were kind of limited in seeing the area and perhaps didn't make the best use of our time. I'd go back, again, in moderate weather conditions, my wife will likely pass on the opportunity if it arises.

I guess the idea is that it takes some effort to "work" the photo opportunities at DV and that can take more time or proper timing and that leaves a lot of seemingly unproductive bad light or driving time in the effort. If a member of your party is not enamored of the desert, it may be a problem.



May 01, 2016 at 06:41 PM
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