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dmacmillan wrote:
There's a couple of things you could try when scanning. First is to scan very flat, don't correct contrast in the scanning software. Adjust contrast in post. Take a look at the histogram when scanning. If you can't fit the entire dynamic range in one scan, which is often the case, you can do successive scans, just like doing multiple exposures for HDR photography. Then you can use HDR software in realistic mode to combine the images.
I had a 4x5 negative of storm clouds over an old barn. I used the multiple scan technique to tame the insane dynamic range.
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You cannot see the histogram in the pakon. Their is a learning curve as far as scanning on the pakon goes. Depending on the film I normally reduce contrast (For BW) in the scanning software between -25 and -40. This reduces a lot of the grain and produces a slightly flat scan contrast wise but it preserves the highlights and shadows so that in LR you can add back the contrast etc. without having HUGE grain.
Each film is a little different. I also think developing is a major factor. I switched to xtol a while back because it reduced the grain a TON. I think Mat may be using HC110 which is a great all around developer but will produce larger grain than say xtol or microphen.
I also think analog prints need to be made with each film so that you have a baseline for what the image "should" look like. I have prints made every so often with each film each way I shoot it (pushing, box speed, etc.). Then I can use the print to match my scan and LR edit to in order to make sure I am coming up with something close to what the analog finished product looks like.
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