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Archive 2015 · Landscape setting for the Canon 5Ds R

  
 
lesgage
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p.1 #1 · p.1 #1 · Landscape setting for the Canon 5Ds R


Just wonder how you might have your 5ds set up for landscape's....any help would be nice...suggestions?

if you could share your settings, that would be nice....thanks

Les



Jun 28, 2015 at 05:59 PM
trumpet_guy
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p.1 #2 · p.1 #2 · Landscape setting for the Canon 5Ds R


May I suggest this simple starting point?

ISO 100
Manual Exposure: f/8. 1/400 second
Autofocus on a distant object. Take the picture. See how that works on a sunny day.

There are no fixed landscape settings. Just experiment. :-)



Jul 01, 2015 at 03:42 AM
Milan Hutera
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p.1 #3 · p.1 #3 · Landscape setting for the Canon 5Ds R


I wonder how will that 1/400 work during golden hour...

To OP: if you have to ask,then all you need is Av mode, f8 and be there.

trumpet_guy wrote:
May I suggest this simple starting point?

ISO 100
Manual Exposure: f/8. 1/400 second
Autofocus on a distant object. Take the picture. See how that works on a sunny day.

There are no fixed landscape settings. Just experiment. :-)




Jul 01, 2015 at 05:55 AM
Jeffrey
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p.1 #4 · p.1 #4 · Landscape setting for the Canon 5Ds R


Manual exposure? Really, for this question? Does one exposure setting work for all your landscape shots?

Like Milan said, start with f8, Av mode, autofocus on, evaluative metering, faithful color setting, and modify from there.



Jul 01, 2015 at 03:28 PM
ontime
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p.1 #5 · p.1 #5 · Landscape setting for the Canon 5Ds R


---
Edit: My post was not very constructive so I've removed it!

Edited on Jul 01, 2015 at 04:43 PM · View previous versions



Jul 01, 2015 at 03:59 PM
RobDickinson
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p.1 #6 · p.1 #6 · Landscape setting for the Canon 5Ds R


Stick in live view with exposure simulation.

Adjust aperture to get required DOF.

Adjust shutter speed to get required exposure.

Adjust ISO when you cant get the right shutter speed.



Jul 01, 2015 at 04:04 PM
gdanmitchell
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p.1 #7 · p.1 #7 · Landscape setting for the Canon 5Ds R


Jeffrey wrote:
Manual exposure? Really, for this question? Does one exposure setting work for all your landscape shots?

Like Milan said, start with f8, Av mode, autofocus on, evaluative metering, faithful color setting, and modify from there.


Everyone has their own approach, but of what most think of as landscape... most folks I know do photograph using manual settings and manually focusing using live view. My typical starting point includes the following:

1. Camera on tripod, with remote release attached.

2. Camera in manual mode with AF and IS turned off. ISO starting point is almost always at 100, though I'll increase this if necessary.

3. Most often I do my initial composition through the optical viewfinder, perhaps roughly manually focusing so that I can see the scene well enough to make compositional decisions.

4. If DOF isn't an issue (let's say a subject that is far away, and without any particular foreground), I'm most likely to select an aperture that will give me good resolution across the frame. This means not choosing the smallest apertures (since they can increase diffraction blur) or the largest apertures (since they can decrease resolution near the edge and may increase vignetting). In general this might be in the range of f/8, though that could vary depending upon the lens. If I need a smaller DOF I might choose a larger aperture as needed, or if I need larger DOF I'll choose a smaller aperture up to about f/16. (I rarely stop down to f/22, though there are occasions...)

5. In most cases I'll switch to live view mode at this point. Since the live view display shows the frame boundaries more accurately I will do final tune up of the composition here. (I especially like the option to show the 4:3 aspect ratio boundaries in live view on the 5Ds(R) since that is my preferred ratio.)

6. I use a combination of the plus/minus exposure meter at the bottom of the LCD and the RGB histogram display to make decisions about shutter speed, typically keeping the aperture the same. Depending on the nature of the scene, I do not simply use the meter derived settings, but I may depart from them for various reasons that I won't try to explain here right now. Almost all exposure changes are made by modifying the shutter speed, since changing aperture affects sharpness and DOF and changing ISO (too much) could also make IQ decrease. (In truth, you can use a higher ISO if you need to with good results — and if I have a shutter speed issue as a result of ISO 100 settings I'll raise ISO a bit.)

7. I use live view for manual focus — I virtually never us AF for landscape photography. (I do use AF for other types.) I select an element of the scene that I think is likely to be a primary focus point, considering its role in the composition and its distance relationship to other scene elements. I zoom in on that element using the 16x magnification setting and manually focus on it.

8. If I have DOF issues to think about I remain zoomed in to 16x. With exposure simulation enabled I press the DOF preview button and use the joystick controlled to move the display around to different areas of the scene, directly checking the focus effect of my aperture choice. (This helps me select the ideal hyperlocal point based on the effect on the scene, not some estimates. It also lets me check my assumptions about aperture and DOF directly.)

9. I'm now ready to make an exposure. If the scene is a relatively static one and the light is good that is a quick process. If things are moving (clouds, shadows, subjects in the scene, etc) this may take longer and I may make multiple exposures in order to have some to choose from later on. I'm not averse to making safety shots, so I'll usually make more than one exposure, and I might try additional exposures at different settings if I think they might be useful.

10. In some cases, for example scenes with very close and very far subjects and/or when using longer focal lengths, I may do a bit of quick focus bracketing "just in case," focusing a bit closer and further away than the ideal more-or-less hyperlocal distance. In some cases this turns out to be useful in post.

11. Out of habit I sometimes still bracket, especially in scenes with very large spans between highlights and shadows. These days this is more of an insurance policy than a necessity and I rarely resort to blending exposures in post.

Finally, there is no one way to shoot landscape. I don't have any problems if you or anyone else prefers a different approach. But since the OP asked... there you go.

Dan



Jul 01, 2015 at 04:54 PM
snapsy
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p.1 #8 · p.1 #8 · Landscape setting for the Canon 5Ds R


gdanmitchell wrote:
Everyone has their own approach, but of what most think of as landscape... most folks I know do photograph using manual settings and manually focusing using live view. My typical starting point includes the following:

1. Camera on tripod, with remote release attached.

2. Camera in manual mode with AF and IS turned off. ISO starting point is almost always at 100, though I'll increase this if necessary.

3. Most often I do my initial composition through the optical viewfinder, perhaps roughly manually focusing so that I can see the scene well enough to make compositional decisions.

4. If DOF isn't an issue
...Show more

Dan, when you exposure bracket in LV what drive mode are you using when you trigger with your remote release? Single-shot, Continuous, Timer? Do you press the remote once to trigger the entire bracketing sequence or press it once per shot?



Jul 01, 2015 at 05:04 PM
JameelH
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p.1 #9 · p.1 #9 · Landscape setting for the Canon 5Ds R


On the 5D3 (still waiting for my 5DsR) I set the timer to 2s and Live view. One shutter click with bracketing takes all the shots. Drive set to Single Shot.


Jul 01, 2015 at 05:21 PM
RobDickinson
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p.1 #10 · p.1 #10 · Landscape setting for the Canon 5Ds R


snapsy wrote:
Dan, when you exposure bracket in LV what drive mode are you using when you trigger with your remote release? Single-shot, Continuous, Timer? Do you press the remote once to trigger the entire bracketing sequence or press it once per shot?


I always use 2 second timer that (on canon) fires off the whole bracket sequence.




Jul 01, 2015 at 05:45 PM
snapsy
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p.1 #11 · p.1 #11 · Landscape setting for the Canon 5Ds R


RobDickinson wrote:
I always use 2 second timer that (on canon) fires off the whole bracket sequence.

Thanks. The reason I ask is that shooting the entire bracketed sequence at once loses the benefit of the EFCS for every image in the sequence except the first. Today I measured the shot-to-shot times of a bracketed sequence taken on a 6D in LV vs outside LV and LV adds 10ms to every shot (OVF averages 230ms, LV averages 240ms). I'm not sure if the extra 10ms is a delay after the first curtain opens for each subsequent shot (which would be good) but even if that's the case, 10ms is not long enough for vibration from the first curtain to dissipate, unless the body is opening up the first curtain early during during the ~240ms shot-to-shot interval. Here are the times I measured, using the EXIF timestamp that is accurate to at least 1/100 of a second (10ms):

OVF Bracketing
#1 2015:07:01 09:56:53.00
#2 2015:07:01 09:56:53.18 -> delta from last shot is 180ms
#3 2015:07:01 09:56:53.42 -> delta from last shot is 240ms
#4 2015:07:01 09:56:53.65 -> delta from last shot is 230ms
#5 2015:07:01 09:56:53.87 -> delta from last shot is 220ms
#6 2015:07:01 09:56:54.10 -> delta from last shot is 230ms
#7 2015:07:01 09:56:54.33 -> delta from last shot is 230ms

LV Bracketing:
#1 2015:07:01 09:57:04.00
#2 2015:07:01 09:57:04.21 -> delta from last shot is 210ms
#3 2015:07:01 09:57:04.45 -> delta from last shot is 240ms
#4 2015:07:01 09:57:04.69 -> delta from last shot is 240ms
#5 2015:07:01 09:57:04.93 -> delta from last shot is 240ms
#6 2015:07:01 09:57:05.17 -> delta from last shot is 240ms
#7 2015:07:01 09:57:05.42 -> delta from last shot is 250ms

Here are the exposures for each of the above 7-shot sequences. Only the last is enough to affect the delta:
#1 1/4000 (0.25ms)
#2 1/2500 (0.40ms)
#3 1/1250 (0.80ms)
#4 1/640 (1.5625ms)
#5 1/320 (3.125ms)
#6 1/160 (6.25ms)
#7 1/80 (12.5ms)

Edited on Jul 01, 2015 at 06:12 PM · View previous versions



Jul 01, 2015 at 05:52 PM
gdanmitchell
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p.1 #12 · p.1 #12 · Landscape setting for the Canon 5Ds R


snapsy wrote:
Dan, when you exposure bracket in LV what drive mode are you using when you trigger with your remote release? Single-shot, Continuous, Timer? Do you press the remote once to trigger the entire bracketing sequence or press it once per shot?


I trigger the shots manually from the remote release, manually changing the shutter speed between shots. I'm always in single shot mode for landscape. It is very rare for me to use the timer. (If I did this all the time as a matter of course I might be tempted to automate it, but since doing so is the exception rather than the rule I don't set anything up in advance to automate the brackets. The same is true with focus bracketing.)

Added later: I do wait a second or two for the camera to "settle" before triggering the exposure, unless doing so would risk missing a shot completely.

Dan

Edited on Jul 02, 2015 at 07:47 AM · View previous versions



Jul 01, 2015 at 06:12 PM
Monito
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p.1 #13 · p.1 #13 · Landscape setting for the Canon 5Ds R


lesgage wrote:
Just wonder how you might have your 5ds set up for landscape's....any help would be nice...suggestions? if you could share your settings, that would be nice....thanks


If you want to make a photo in landscape mode and not portrait mode, turn the camera so that the widest dimension is horizontal, not vertical. This can be considered the default mode.

(Sorry, somebody was bound to reply this way )



Jul 01, 2015 at 06:37 PM
lesgage
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p.1 #14 · p.1 #14 · Landscape setting for the Canon 5Ds R


thanks Dan

Les



Jul 01, 2015 at 06:43 PM
lesgage
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p.1 #15 · p.1 #15 · Landscape setting for the Canon 5Ds R


thanks Dan

Les



Jul 01, 2015 at 06:47 PM
Monito
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p.1 #16 · p.1 #16 · Landscape setting for the Canon 5Ds R


More seriously, settings for photographing a landscape depend on the situation, goals, and conditions.

To start with, landscapes almost always include distant scenery in focus. So your first setting is angle of view, which is controlled by focal length. I have photographed landscapes with focal lengths from 16 to 540 mm.

Focal length has a huge impact on other settings. Telephoto lenses require either high shutter speeds or good IS (Image Stabilization) or setting the camera on a tripod. High shutter speeds require good lighting conditions (sunlight) or high ISO settings.

If your goal is to have great depth of field from foreground to infinity, then either high f/numbers (small apertures) or tilting lenses or focus stacking are required.

If your goal is to make the very best largest prints with the 5DS, then a tripod may be necessary and consider using apertures in the range of two stops down from wide open to about f/8 (for lens sharpness and to avoid diffraction effects at extreme enlargements). This type of work has other consequences for technique, especially to consider working the way Dan Mitchell does (see posts upthread).

Seriously, it seems naive to ask for "landscape settings". Is there anything more specific you have in mind in asking your question, Les?



Jul 01, 2015 at 06:50 PM
EB-1
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p.1 #17 · p.1 #17 · Landscape setting for the Canon 5Ds R


Special settings? It's similar to other bodies. Just be a little more careful with vibration/stability and consider DOF/diffraction compromises. MLU or LV is more necessary with longer lenses and long exposures than with the 2x class FF bodies. At the pixel level the effects of diffraction may be apparent at a wider aperture; there are several threads about that issue and the tradeoffs with DOF.

The most important part is that the IQ of the entire 5DsR image (same sized print) will not be worse than that of a similar, lower-res FF body, high ISO noise issues aside. Most of the time it will be better, and not by a small amount.

EBH



Jul 01, 2015 at 07:05 PM
Chumma
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p.1 #18 · p.1 #18 · Landscape setting for the Canon 5Ds R


gdanmitchell wrote:
... I select an element of the scene that I think is likely to be a primary focus point, considering its role in the composition and its distance relationship to other scene elements. I zoom in on that element using the 16x magnification setting and manually focus on it.
...

Dan


Dan - do you focus on something that is 1/3rd into the scene, or don't care about that? Thanks.



Jul 01, 2015 at 10:35 PM
KKFung
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p.1 #19 · p.1 #19 · Landscape setting for the Canon 5Ds R


I did the same way as Dan did. Basic for big print or flawless operation. With the Tilt and Shift or Pano stitch we also need to set up the level while we are fixing the tripod.

Thanks for Snapsy brought out the vibration issue during fast bracketing (always necessary to have it complete before something in the scense moved). On tripod landscape always face slow but not long shutter speed like 1/4s, 1/2s, etc. With a 50MP camera nowaday and super sharp wide angle lens this become an issue from these small vibration.



Jul 01, 2015 at 11:42 PM
Milan Hutera
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p.1 #20 · p.1 #20 · Landscape setting for the Canon 5Ds R


Monito wrote:
More seriously, settings for photographing a landscape depend on the situation, goals, and conditions.

To start with, landscapes almost always include distant scenery in focus. So your first setting is angle of view, which is controlled by focal length. I have photographed landscapes with focal lengths from 16 to 540 mm.

Focal length has a huge impact on other settings. Telephoto lenses require either high shutter speeds or good IS (Image Stabilization) or setting the camera on a tripod. High shutter speeds require good lighting conditions (sunlight) or high ISO settings.

If your goal is to have great depth of field from foreground
...Show more

This topic is very much like all those "What lenses should I take to this or that country". And if I bother to write a response - I always start with "If you (the OP) have to ask..." and I'm tempted to finish it with "then it does not matter anyway". Any photographer who dedicates him/herself to shooting, must know his gear and what types of photos can he/she get out of his gear. For heaven's sake Italy is basically no different than Alabama or Washington DC. If I'm most comfortable shooting with 24-70 or 16-35, why on Earth that wouldn't work in Europe?

The OP bought an expensive, specialized camera and now asks for basic settings to quite a complex subject such as Landscape. This tells me he's most probably a beginner and should also spend some money on a workshop (call it Landscape 101 for example), because the more complex answers he'll get, he'll probably be more and more confused.And in the end, none of this will matter, because that 5Ds will be heavily underused.

f8 and be there. Trust me. And a tripod of course.



Jul 02, 2015 at 02:54 AM
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