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Archive 2015 · USM Questions? (non-PS)

  
 
AmbientMike
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p.1 #1 · p.1 #1 · USM Questions? (non-PS)


I have been improving pp skills lately, and have some USM questions. I use Silkypix for converting Panasonic RAW and DPP for Canon. Do I want to sharpen a lot, or very little, in these programs before applying USM in Gimp?

DPP has a slider bar from 1-10, I usually use 7 or so. I probably use emphatic sharp the most on Silkypix.

I guess I need to convert to TIF, not jpg?

I am not really wanting to do monthly payments, I guess that's what PS does now? How badly do I need to upgrade software?

What about NR in this process? I haven't needed it much just printing, etc., straight out of DPP, so I'm not that familiar with it. Although I used the free NeatImage years ago.

If you know of any good websites, video, etc, on this subject or pp in general, that might be really helpful, as well.

Thank you in advance.



Jun 28, 2015 at 10:10 AM
dhphoto
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p.1 #2 · p.1 #2 · USM Questions? (non-PS)


FWIW in DPP you can choose to use standard sharpening (as you mention) or you can go to the more sophisticated settings where you can alter the radius, the threshhold and the amount of USM

As for when and how much it depends on your final usage.

There's no doubt in my mind the best program for your needs is Lightroom (as a standalone not subscription) which has just the most marvellous range of options for all sorts of tasks, especially RAW conversion



Jun 29, 2015 at 02:32 PM
Greg Campbell
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p.1 #3 · p.1 #3 · USM Questions? (non-PS)


I also use DPP and Gimp.

FWIW, I suggest zero sharpening in DPP. The controls are too crude, and the possibility to creating halos or artifacts is too great.

You can use Gimp's standard USM with (very) large radii for contrast enhancement if you like.

suggest you get the free Wavelet Sharpen plug-in for Gimp and use that for fine sharpening.



Jun 29, 2015 at 07:35 PM
AmbientMike
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p.1 #4 · p.1 #4 · USM Questions? (non-PS)




dhphoto wrote:
FWIW in DPP you can choose to use standard sharpening (as you mention) or you can go to the more sophisticated settings where you can alter the radius, the threshhold and the amount of USM

As for when and how much it depends on your final usage.

There's no doubt in my mind the best program for your needs is Lightroom (as a standalone not subscription) which has just the most marvellous range of options for all sorts of tasks, especially RAW conversion


Really? That would be great, because gimp won't work on tiffs from DPP. It works on 8 but not 16 from Silkypix.

I get a small image in the upper left corner that it works on. Weird.

Where is USM in DPP? I have an older version. I'll try to remember to look for it next time I'm on the computer (on phone now. )

I'll price Lightroom, but I have an older computer. Might not work.



Jul 01, 2015 at 07:21 PM
AmbientMike
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p.1 #5 · p.1 #5 · USM Questions? (non-PS)




Greg Campbell wrote:
I also use DPP and Gimp.

FWIW, I suggest zero sharpening in DPP. The controls are too crude, and the possibility to creating halos or artifacts is too great.

You can use Gimp's standard USM with (very) large radii for contrast enhancement if you like.

suggest you get the free Wavelet Sharpen plug-in for Gimp and use that for fine sharpening.


Thanks to both of you for your replies. I didn't really think anyone used these on here, glad I'm not the only one. I went ahead and tested at 3, 6, and 9 on DPP. None, natural and emphatic on Silkypix. I liked natural and 6, the middle ones. But I'll try 0.

The higher was sharper, but had lower contrast on Silkypix. The middle looked better at 50%, full size.

Yeah I noticed it was affectin the photo. I was looking at NR for Gimp, I'll look at that one.



Jul 01, 2015 at 07:27 PM
Alan321
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p.1 #6 · p.1 #6 · USM Questions? (non-PS)


In general, if you're starting with a raw image file from the camera then apply the smallest amount amount of sharpening that makes an obvious difference without producing halos. This is called "capture sharpening" and simply restores acuity or sharpness what was lost through the process of creating a raw file and turning that raw file into something that looks like an actual colour photo. The reason you try to avoid any halos is that you do not want further editing to work on the halos.

Then do all of the editing that you can with the raw file data in DPP or Lr or whatever.

Then, if necessary, produce a converted jpg or tif file and do whatever other editing is required. This extra editing at this stage is most likely to make up for a feature that is not available in DPP or Lr. Otherwise you'd stick with the raw file editing in those programs.

Now you may create a tif or jpg file with the specific intention of printing it. Make that file the size you want/need for the print and then apply the "output sharpening" that works best on the print. This output sharpening is relatively tricky because whatever works nicely on print will generally look way overcooked on-screen, and anything that looks good on-screen will look way undercooked on the print. The difference is mainly due to the different numbers of pixels per inch of the screen and the print, but also to the way inks mix together on the print. Capture sharpening is always the last step before printing.

If you use a program such as QImage then it will do the enlargement and sharpening for any print size from a single original file.


By the way, the amount of capture sharpening that I use varies with the camera models and sometimes even more so between camera brands. If you are using jpg or tif files that were captured in-camera then be aware that they will have already been processed and sharpened to some extent in-camera. It is preferable to minimise the in-camera sharpening if you intend to do further editing out of the camera; otherwise you'll end up editing excessive halos and making things worse.

- Alan



Jul 01, 2015 at 09:10 PM
AmbientMike
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p.1 #7 · p.1 #7 · USM Questions? (non-PS)


Thanks, I don't think I'm doing enough sharpening to get halos. I usually look at 50-100% to see how much noise is building up, and back off. Or is the noise considered a halo as well?

Did you mean capture sharpening is the last step, or output sharpening? I usually sharpen in DPP or Silkypix before gimp.

Do you use a specific amount of output sharpening for a certain size print, or do you play with it? I found a calculator online (Cambridge Color,) but I'm not sure whether to stick with those numbers, or if it is a jumping off point.

I almost always shoot RAW, and if I shoot jpeg it is usually RAW+jpeg.

That's a good point, I just have to do what I can in the RAW processors then the rest in Gimp, etc.




Jul 05, 2015 at 12:58 PM
HaJa
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p.1 #8 · p.1 #8 · USM Questions? (non-PS)


Hi there

If you are ready for something else

http://www.dl-c.com/site/products/

and Picture Window Pro there.

It has interesting sharpening tool and contrast tool, but it really shines in color corrections.

Support is also great.

Just a wilder choice.

Jarmo



Jul 07, 2015 at 12:43 PM
AmbientMike
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p.1 #9 · p.1 #9 · USM Questions? (non-PS)




HaJa wrote:
Hi there

If you are ready for something else

http://www.dl-c.com/site/products/

and Picture Window Pro there.

It has interesting sharpening tool and contrast tool, but it really shines in color corrections.

Support is also great.

Just a wilder choice.

Jarmo


Thanks Jarmo, that looks good. I am looking for somethingthat doesn't have a monthly fee.



Jul 07, 2015 at 10:17 PM
HaJa
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p.1 #10 · p.1 #10 · USM Questions? (non-PS)


AmbientMike wrote:
Thanks Jarmo, that looks good. I am looking for something that doesn't have a monthly fee.


It is good. But it is also very different. If you give it a try, be sure to get the PRO version. be patient, take your time and use the support and message board! RTFM

I started my digital darkroom with PWP. I use LR and NIK today. But, if I have problems with color I go for PWP.


Jarmo



Jul 08, 2015 at 01:17 AM





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