Alan321 Offline Upload & Sell: Off
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p.1 #4 · p.1 #4 · Eizo CS240 contrast ratio (update; CS270 now) | |
1. Don't be at all concerned about the contrast ratio.
2. Start making up a set of profiles for different viewing conditions.
If you want 1000:1 contrast ratio then keep the sunglasses handy because the display will be way to bright when using most programs.
100 Cd/m2 is a bit too dark for representing daylight scenes of the beach, etc., but using say 140 Cd/m2 is a bit too bright for representing what you'll get on a print - unless you take the print out into the direct sunlight for viewing. I find that a range from about 90 to about 140 Cd/m2 covers everything that I need.
The good news is that you can create multiple profiles with different brightness and contrast settings that suit different purposes, and when you select any of them the processor in the monitor automatically and very quickly adjusts the monitor calibration to suit the profile. That means you don't have to mess around fiddling with brightness settings on your screen or computer because the monitor does it for you.
I usually edit my photos at about 140 Cd/2 for comfortable on-screen viewing but then, when I want to print one, I'll make a virtual copy (in Lr) and set the monitor profile to whatever suits the intended print viewing conditions. It might be 90 Cd/m2 with 200:1 contrast ratio. Then I get a cup of coffee because the monitor suddenly looks too dark to be useful When I come back the shadow details will usually have disappeared and so they need to be boosted. There's no point brightening the highlights because the monitor cannot make them look any brighter with this profile restricting it, and all I'm doing is trying to get the best image that can be achieved within the profile limitations. The prints then look quite ok and never appear significantly darker than expected unless I view them in lighting that is darker than I intended when I chose the profile. This approach works better than trying to use soft-proofing in Lr.
- Alan
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