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Archive 2015 · 7D2 works now, sortof

  
 
Cary Smithson
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p.1 #1 · p.1 #1 · 7D2 works now, sortof


Long time lurker who upgraded from a 7D to a 7D2. Could not get any sharp shots with my 70-200 2.8L IS II on the 7D2 no matter how I tried to micro-adjust it. I usually shoot little birds at f/2.8, center focus point. Even shooting very high shutter speeds, on a bright sunny day, every shot was still soft. It was inconsistent, sometimes front focused, sometimes back-focused, but never a tack sharp shot. However, when I tried shooting at f/5 and above, all of a sudden, every shot was tack sharp. Can somebody smarter than me explain why? I don't think I "fixed" the problem, but it'll get me through airshow season, then I can send it in to CPS afterward.


Mar 11, 2015 at 09:39 AM
dgdg
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p.1 #2 · p.1 #2 · 7D2 works now, sortof


Well, I'm not smarter, but would suggest that f/2.8 is pretty shallow dof for wildlife @ 200mm.
Can you upload some sample images with exif? Also detail what your focus settings are.
Canon software allows you to see which focus points were active at the time of capture, sometimes this is useful.
It would help us see if the focus plane is sharp, but just not on the subject.

David



Mar 11, 2015 at 09:58 AM
Harry.C
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p.1 #3 · p.1 #3 · 7D2 works now, sortof


dgdg wrote:
Canon software allows you to see which focus points were active at the time of capture,

I didn't know this. Can you explain in greater detail how to do this please?

Thanks,
Harry C



Mar 11, 2015 at 10:35 AM
Cary Smithson
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p.1 #4 · p.1 #4 · 7D2 works now, sortof


I should have made it clear that I'm a novice. I have absolutely no idea how to post pics here with or without exif data. I don't use Canon's supplied software, just Photoshop Elements for very minimal post-processing--mostly cropping and straightening. As far as focus settings, I'm not sure what you mean, but I usually use single-point spot AF. If I'm trying to catch a BIF (rarely) I'll use center point expansion in AI servo, but usually use single shot the rest of the time. Any in-camera AF settings are still set at their factory defaults. I'm not really helping you help me am I?


Mar 11, 2015 at 10:45 AM
dgdg
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p.1 #5 · p.1 #5 · 7D2 works now, sortof


You're fine. Welcome to the journey.

Digital photo professional from Canon which comes with your camera on a cd should have options to display the focus points over top of the image. You could install this.
To post photos here, you can join FMs buy/sell/upload subscription, or post a link from your own blog/photo sharing site.
Spot should work if there is enough contrast, otherwise, use the regular single point focus, usually with assist points around it in case contrast is too low.

David



Mar 11, 2015 at 10:53 AM
arbitrage
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p.1 #6 · p.1 #6 · 7D2 works now, sortof


One suggestion I would make is to try using AI Servo instead of One shot even for perched birds. I assume you are handholding and if that is so then there are always minor movements that you are making and usually birds are making small movements also. Having AI Servo running at the time of exposure can keep the AF on the bird better than one-shot. Using single point or spot point (if lots of branches, leaves are around) is your best bet which you are already doing.

As others have said, f/2.8 may have a small enough DOF that minor movements after the One shot gets focus might be throwing the focus off forwards or backwards. At f/5 the DOF is larger and probably encompassing the bird within its range despite any small movements.



Mar 11, 2015 at 11:17 AM
Imagemaster
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p.1 #7 · p.1 #7 · 7D2 works now, sortof


As David said, you should use Digital Photo Professional (DPP). There are free tutorials on the Web. Post-processing is an important factor in getting better results from the images that come straight out of your camera.

Don't shoot at F2.8 unless you have a good reason to do so. Lower your shutter-speed and/or raise your ISO.

Eliminate blur by using the correct combination of f-stop, shutter speed, and ISO .



Mar 11, 2015 at 11:47 AM
Cary Smithson
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p.1 #8 · p.1 #8 · 7D2 works now, sortof


I thank everyone for all their helpful tips and hints. I'll get DPP installed after the sun goes down. In the meantime, I'm having way too much fun shooting in the backyard on this long awaited warm sunny day.


Mar 11, 2015 at 11:57 AM
dgdg
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p.1 #9 · p.1 #9 · 7D2 works now, sortof


Cary Smithson wrote:
In the meantime, I'm having way too much fun shooting in the backyard on this long awaited warm sunny day.


That's what it is all about!
As Tony suggested, Canon's DPP also offers very good photo editing software. You are using RAW files, right? You should give DPP a spin. Many use Lightroom and/or Photoshop, but the DPP comes free with your camera!

David




Mar 11, 2015 at 03:49 PM
mogud
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p.1 #10 · p.1 #10 · 7D2 works now, sortof


I shoot small birds in AI Servo with an aperture of minimum f5.6, shutter speed at least 1/800 and an ISO of 640 on a sunny day and for cloudy days 1250. I never use spot and always single point surround. Look up 1st and 2nd Image Priority in the manual and change the default to focus only for both 1st and 2nd Image priority.

Keep the questions coming. Lots of knowledgeable and very capable photographers here. No such thing as a dumb question. Just silly when you don't ask.




Mar 11, 2015 at 05:22 PM
gschlact
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p.1 #11 · p.1 #11 · 7D2 works now, sortof


Were you shooting near an open window or door of house or car?
Also, how far from the bird would you estimate your distance to the bird and what focal length was your shot?



Mar 11, 2015 at 05:31 PM
jimmy462
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p.1 #12 · p.1 #12 · 7D2 works now, sortof


Cary Smithson wrote:
Long time lurker who upgraded from a 7D to a 7D2. Could not get any sharp shots with my 70-200 2.8L IS II on the 7D2 no matter how I tried to micro-adjust it. I usually shoot little birds at f/2.8, center focus point. Even shooting very high shutter speeds, on a bright sunny day, every shot was still soft. It was inconsistent, sometimes front focused, sometimes back-focused, but never a tack sharp shot. However, when I tried shooting at f/5 and above, all of a sudden, every shot was tack sharp. Can somebody smarter than me explain why?
...Show more

Hi Cary,

The short answer as to why f/5 is yielding more consistent results than f/2.8 is that your depth of field (DOF, henceforth) at f/5 is deeper than at f/2.8. The deeper the DOF the better the chance of getting your subject in focus.

Here are some example DOF numbers for shooting a "little bird" at 10 meters...

200mm @ 10 meters @ f/2.8 with a 7D2 = from 0.13 meters in front of the little bird to 0.13 meters behind the little bird will be in focus. Total DOF = 0.16 meters.

200mm @ 10 meters @ f/11 with a 7D2 = from 0.5 meters in front of the little bird to 0.56 meters behind the little bird will be in focus. Total DOF = 1.06 meters.

Oh yeah, and your f/5 shots work out thusly...

200mm @ 10 meters @ f/5 = 0.23 meters in front, 0.24 meters behind for a total DOF of 0.47 meters! F/5 is more forgiving than f/2.8!

Here's a nifty online calculator to play with to get familiar with these concepts...

Online Depth of Field Calculator:
http://www.dofmaster.com/dofjs.html

I hope this helps!
Jimmy G



Mar 11, 2015 at 08:41 PM
jimmy462
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p.1 #13 · p.1 #13 · 7D2 works now, sortof


Cary Smithson wrote:
I should have made it clear that I'm a novice. I have absolutely no idea how to post pics here with or without exif data. I don't use Canon's supplied software, just Photoshop Elements for very minimal post-processing--mostly cropping and straightening. As far as focus settings, I'm not sure what you mean, but I usually use single-point spot AF. If I'm trying to catch a BIF (rarely) I'll use center point expansion in AI servo, but usually use single shot the rest of the time. Any in-camera AF settings are still set at their factory defaults. I'm not really
...Show more

Hi again,

As a general rule, use One-Shot focus for stationary objects and AI Servo for moving subjects (such as BIFs). Sounds like you're on the right track!

Practice, practice, practice! Shoot passing cars, people walking or jogging, dogs running about, airplanes flying by...if it moves, shoot it. The goal is to get good at your tracking skills and keeping your focus points on your target.

I'd suggest setting up the 7D2 with the following parameters to get yourself started...

Set the camera to Aperture Priority and set your ISO @ 1600, and the lens to f/16 and let the camera decide your shutter speed (you can work on improving that later). As your keeper rate improves you can "graduate" to f/11 (your shutter speeds will get automatically get shorter...which is good!). As that keeper rate improves consider "graduating" to either f/8 or ISO 800 (what I consider "bare minimum" for daylight BIF work). Your goal by this point should be minimum 1/1000 second shutter speeds at ISO 800 with fast flappers requiring 1/2000 minimum and soaring birds 1/500 minimum.

Tweak the recipe to suit your needs. Oh yeah, and have fun!
Jimmy G



Mar 11, 2015 at 09:11 PM
EB-1
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p.1 #14 · p.1 #14 · 7D2 works now, sortof


dgdg wrote:
You're fine. Welcome to the journey.

Digital photo professional from Canon which comes with your camera on a cd should have options to display the focus points over top of the image. You could install this.
To post photos here, you can join FMs buy/sell/upload subscription, or post a link from your own blog/photo sharing site.
Spot should work if there is enough contrast, otherwise, use the regular single point focus, usually with assist points around it in case contrast is too low.

David


The focus points only shows sometimes, e.g., in servo mode it depends if AF is on at the moment the shutter is released.

EBH



Mar 11, 2015 at 10:12 PM
JVthePT
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p.1 #15 · p.1 #15 · 7D2 works now, sortof


Sounds like you are getting lots of good advice so far.
I have one suggestion. Push Menu then turn the wheel behind the shutter release button to move over to the blue section. One of those blue sets (don't have my 7d2 in hand) will have the option to display AF point on playback. Enable that feature and you will be able to see where your focus point landed as you captured that image. It's the same as what DPP will show you on your computer, but now you will see if you hit or missed as you review images on the viewfinder.
I thought I had some focus issues with my f2.8 or faster lenses wide open until I started doing this and I was surprised how often I had drifted off my intended target. It helped me with my hand holding technique (which still needs work, BTW ;-) ).



Mar 12, 2015 at 08:16 AM
gvg45
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p.1 #16 · p.1 #16 · 7D2 works now, sortof


If you're using Lightroom, there is a plug-in that shows the focus point similar DPP.

http://www.lightroomfocuspointsplugin.com/




Mar 12, 2015 at 08:39 AM





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