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Archive 2015 · Wonder if the Sony WA and UWA conversion lens for 28/2 will fit RX1 and DP1

  
 
Tjgator
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p.2 #1 · p.2 #1 · Wonder if the Sony WA and UWA conversion lens for 28/2 will fit RX1 and DP1


Bokeh looks good. A bit too soft in the center at f/2.0, but probably usable for non-critical work by f/2.8


Mar 28, 2015 at 09:25 PM
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p.2 #2 · p.2 #2 · Wonder if the Sony WA and UWA conversion lens for 28/2 will fit RX1 and DP1


millsart wrote:
Looks pretty good, honestly would rival a few 24mm legacy lens I've used on my A7 in terms of corner performance.

Any issues with minimum focus distance or AF in general ?

If you ever get a chance, some wide open samples focused on a foreground subject would be cool. Would be curious to see if the RX1's Sonnar is still as nice and creamy with the convertor.

I would try unscrewing those 4 little screws that hold the bayonet ring on and then put a 52-49mm step down ring on. Usually those are thick enough that you can use some gaffers tape
...Show more

MFD and AF in general are not changed in any significant manner.




Mar 28, 2015 at 09:27 PM
millsart
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p.2 #3 · p.2 #3 · Wonder if the Sony WA and UWA conversion lens for 28/2 will fit RX1 and DP1


Thanks for posting those. Looks like the Sonnar style rendering is still there and f2.8, if not f4.0, looks quite useable.

I think (provided I can figure out a way to mount it) that this looks like its worth the price and should expand the usefulness of the RX1 a bit further.

I'm curious about the fisheye conversion lens as well, however, the size/weight of it looked to me much bigger than the UWA, so it might prove to bit a bit awkward on camera/too much in a bag/pocket I'm thinking.



Mar 28, 2015 at 10:22 PM
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p.2 #4 · p.2 #4 · Wonder if the Sony WA and UWA conversion lens for 28/2 will fit RX1 and DP1




millsart wrote:
Thanks for posting those. Looks like the Sonnar style rendering is still there and f2.8, if not f4.0, looks quite useable.

I think (provided I can figure out a way to mount it) that this looks like its worth the price and should expand the usefulness of the RX1 a bit further.

I'm curious about the fisheye conversion lens as well, however, the size/weight of it looked to me much bigger than the UWA, so it might prove to bit a bit awkward on camera/too much in a bag/pocket I'm thinking.


I probably won't do any mounting until you or someone else has given it a try. I'd be interested in hearing details of your mounting strategy if/when you attempt to do it.

Or, maybe I'll sell it on B&S, since it's not yet available here (I think) and buy it back later.



Mar 29, 2015 at 06:36 AM
Audii-Dudii
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p.2 #5 · p.2 #5 · Wonder if the Sony WA and UWA conversion lens for 28/2 will fit RX1 and DP1


Although I'm not the first person to have modified a SEL075UWC wide-angle converter to work on the RX1's lens, it makes sense to have all the information relating to this in one thread, so here's a photo showing exactly which modifications need to be performed in order to accomplish this:

http://i1353.photobucket.com/albums/q671/MrX32858/_DSC6626a_zps5qdapyil.jpg


The red arrow shows the location of the plastic lip that must be removed from the bayonet in order to allow the converter bayonet to fit between the outer edge of the RX1's lens bayonet and the inside edge of the lip next to the focus ring. Although the converter does now appear to be open to the elements as evidenced by the gap that is visible once the lip has been removed, in fact it's still adequately sealed because the plastic surface at the base of the gap is solid all the way around.

The yellow arrow shows the locking tab that must be modified (for some, but apparently not all of these converters, so you'll need to determine whether your particular sample requires this step, as mine did) by making it slightly shorter and/or narrower. It doesn't take much trimming, but you'll have to determine how much is required by trial-and-error.

Lastly, the magenta arrow shows where the metal body of the converter (and the plastic inner liner) must be shortened by approx. 5mm. This can be done via several different methods, including filing by hand, and the exact amount of metal to be removed isn't critical, as it simply has to be enough to provide sufficient clearance for the converter bayonet to engage the lens bayonet and also allow the focus ring to turn; a little bit more is fine, but a little bit less is not, so once again, trial-and-error will be required.

I'm not providing step-by-step instructions, because if you have the necessary tools and skills to perform these modifications yourself, you won't need them; and if you do need them, then it's probably best if you have the modifications performed by someone else, as they are permanent and if you screw something up, it's not clear whether replacement parts are available or you'll just have to scrap the entire converter. You have been warned! (That said, I did the entire job in about 90 minutes from start to finish, including five rounds of removing metal from the body to get the remaining length just right and having to recover the glass each time to avoid causing any damage to it.)

As for the results, the sample photos posted in this thread above are an accurate representation of what to expect. For my purposes, the lens converter is usable from f2.8 through f8, although IQ does suffer a bit at f2.8 and at f8, my Ricoh GW-3 is slightly sharper. (Note: I didn't test it at f11 through f22, so it may or may not work fine with those apertures as well.) And lastly, while the Sony converter is quite a bit larger than the GW-3 converter due to its built-in and non-removable lens hood, the two of them weigh roughly the same.

So there you go ... hope this helps someone!



Jun 21, 2015 at 04:28 PM
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