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Archive 2015 · Light compensation on Fn button

  
 
Vinnie_VdB
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p.1 #1 · p.1 #1 · Light compensation on Fn button


Problem: I take my D4 and D750 together on various wildlife and birding trips and on the bodies is either a AF-S 500mm f4 VR or an AF-S 80-400 VR lens.
When I shoot wildlife in the bush (Africa) do I have my light settings correct but when this beautiful snake eagle or Cape Vulpture is flying do I need to overexpose with at least 1 stop.

I work mainly on matrix metering and have tried spot metering on both occasions but have either an under or over expose photo so that doesn't seem the solution.

Possible solution: are there more people who think that it would be great if we could assign under the Fn button a fixed under or over exposure value? When we see that BIF that we press the FN button and we have that 1 to 1 1/3 stop over exposure?

If other people face(d) the same problem and have a solution for it would it be highly appreciated if input can be given

Thx,
Vincent



Jan 02, 2015 at 02:49 PM
Braineack
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p.1 #2 · p.1 #2 · Light compensation on Fn button


use auto-iso and spot metering.


Jan 02, 2015 at 02:52 PM
Vinnie_VdB
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p.1 #3 · p.1 #3 · Light compensation on Fn button


Braineack wrote:
use auto-iso and spot metering.


I do use auto-ISO but that has of course nothing to do with over or under exposure settings.
Spotmetering is a hit and miss as I work, like many birders, with a single AF point.

Thx anyway.



Jan 02, 2015 at 02:54 PM
binary visions
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p.1 #4 · p.1 #4 · Light compensation on Fn button


I think it's always a great idea to expand the number of functions a customizable button can be used for, because no matter how weird I or anyone else thinks the use case is, someone probably would love to be able to do it that way. So - sure! I think it'd be great if it could be used that way. I'd never use it, but that's not really the point.

That said, the amount you need to over expose is going to vary by situation and I personally don't see the utility in having a fixed amount of over-exposure that is just the tiniest bit faster than rotating a command dial. If a bird is spontaneously zipping by me so quickly that I literally don't have time to rotate the command dial by three clicks, it's pretty unlikely that I'm getting a stellar shot off (in my experience). Muscle memory is usually going to be good enough to be adjusting the exposure while framing.

You can turn on Easy Exposure Compensation and that would let you change the EV without any other buttons.



Jan 02, 2015 at 03:09 PM
Vinnie_VdB
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p.1 #5 · p.1 #5 · Light compensation on Fn button


Thx Binary Visions, that is indeed what I use now, the Easy Exposure Compensation but that is exactly that kind of function I like to see under the Fn .

It i indeed senseless to try shooting a nervous bird in a tree and try shooting at the same time that flying kite but shooting a walking leopard with a flying eagle above us could make this function handy . Perhaps I am too demanding



Jan 02, 2015 at 03:57 PM
Braineack
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p.1 #6 · p.1 #6 · Light compensation on Fn button


How do you typically shoot now in each of those situations?


Jan 04, 2015 at 03:42 PM
Vinnie_VdB
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p.1 #7 · p.1 #7 · Light compensation on Fn button


Single AF point, cont. focus, matrix metering and according to the situation I either under or over expose.


Jan 04, 2015 at 03:53 PM
Weez
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p.1 #8 · p.1 #8 · Light compensation on Fn button


I get what you're saying, but with the DR capabilities of both of your cameras, it should be easy enough to do in post...


Jan 04, 2015 at 04:05 PM
shmn
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p.1 #9 · p.1 #9 · Light compensation on Fn button


Weez wrote:
I get what you're saying, but with the DR capabilities of both of your cameras, it should be easy enough to do in post...


That's really not be best attitude to take. Better to get it right in the camera if you can.



Jan 04, 2015 at 04:15 PM
egd5
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p.1 #10 · p.1 #10 · Light compensation on Fn button


This whole idea of being better to "get it right in the camera" is way overused IMO. Sometimes it is, sometimes it isn't.
If you don't mind or even like post processing, and it's a simple fix, then what does it matter? This is digital, not film. It's Xs on Os we're manipulating.
If you take too long to get the camera settings "right" and you miss the shot, what good is that?
If you are in a controlled situation and it takes you an extra 15 minutes to get something just right that you could do in post in 1 minute, where have you gained anything? Is your finished product any better?
Now before a bunch of purists jump down my throat, I do know that there are plenty of times that it is better to get it as close to right as possible. Some things just can't be done in post. But this idea that we are less than good if we decide to fix it in post is silly IMO. Many times it's just a personal choice of the photographer. Neither right or wrong. No more than what ISO he decides to shoot at, or what camera he uses.



Jan 04, 2015 at 05:25 PM
ffstory
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p.1 #11 · p.1 #11 · Light compensation on Fn button


shmn wrote:
That's really not be best attitude to take. Better to get it right in the camera if you can.


If you have a high DR scene (like a dark bird on light background) you always need to compress the dynamic range of the scene somehow. This is how camera sensors work. Most photographers expose for highlights and pull the shadow details in post.

Anyway, there is no function on Nikon cameras that you described. You'll need to familiarise with one one of the other method how to control exposure measurement (spot/center/marix) or even control the exposure manually (which is what I normally use in these situations).

If you have inconsistent results with spot metering again I suggest to investigate setting of spot size and experiment with custom setting that locks the exposure when AF is locked. The spot size is normally very small and it requires experience to know where it is exactly located.



Jan 04, 2015 at 05:28 PM
Weez
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p.1 #12 · p.1 #12 · Light compensation on Fn button


Not an ideal solution, but you can assign both the Pv and Fn buttons on the 750 to do this in conjunction with the command dials, albeit in 1 stop increments.

I'm still experimenting with getting my 750 set up to my liking. Here's how I have it set currently:

- Auto ISO in manual mode
- Matrix metering as default
- Pv button for Center-weighted
- Fn button for Spot
- AE-L/AF-L set to AE lock and hold (standby is set to 1 min., but whatever works)

A second push of the AE-L/AF-L button (or when the timer runs out) unlocks the meter.

I'm really liking this setup so far.

You might also consider using U2 (two clicks away from M) to keep everything the way you have it now, but with the exposure fine tuning feature set where you want.

But then, is that really any quicker than just having everything full manual and rotating a dial a few clicks? I dunno, might even be slower...

Regarding the "get it right in camera" mindset...I'm all for that, if it's possible. I cut my teeth in the mid '80's, manual everything, and shot mostly slide - very little room for error.

But who cares? We have this awesome technology now, and I believe we should use it. Squeeze every last little bit out of it that we can. Get the shot, and get it as close as you can to just right, and take advantage of the DR in post. With practice, nobody will be able to tell.




Jan 04, 2015 at 06:32 PM
Braineack
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p.1 #13 · p.1 #13 · Light compensation on Fn button


egd5 wrote:
This whole idea of being better to "get it right in the camera" is way overused IMO. Sometimes it is, sometimes it isn't.

If you don't mind or even like post processing, and it's a simple fix, then what does it matter? This is digital, not film. It's Xs on Os we're manipulating.


There's nothing wrong with trying to get it right in camera, but like you said, there's something about knowing what your camera is capable of. Especially on the newest Nikon sensors, there is so much room for recovery, it's crazy. Also, so long as you're not pushing to HI or LOW ISO settings, adding say 3EV to a completely underexposed image is pretty much the same thing as adding 3 stops of ISO in camera. Isn't that why you shoot Nikon and not Canon anyway? :P

I asked how he was currently shooting to maybe suggest setting up U1 or U2 for each situation, especially if we are using M mode with fairly static aperture and shutter settings.

I've personally had good luck shooting birds in the sky using Spot metering, in D9 mode, with auto-ISO. A few birders I've talked to do the same.

Otherwise, if you're using matrix, a good bet might just be getting good at dialing in the exposure comp. and knowing how many clicks on the wheel brings you to +2EV, assuming you're in a priority mode.



Jan 05, 2015 at 07:14 AM





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