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p.1 #1 · p.1 #1 · New to D3s - looking for best methods. Want advice... | |
Hello,
I have been shooting with Nikon for, well, years and years. I am not a pro, but I'm not a, what is that term, "pixel-something-or-other"...
I've shot with the F1, F3, F4s, F5, and then the D2H and the D2Hs. I have experience with processing my own BW and color print and slide film. I have a lot of experience with digital post-processing.
Now, I have a new (to me) D3s purchased under the advice of a friend at Nikon. I was going to go the full monty and get the D4s, but was advised against it.
My question revolves around shooting at higher ISO values and the proper lighting, especially on large indoor subjects; the B-52G aircraft at the US Air force Museum as an example.
I've noticed that when using flash on the hot shoe and set up for TTL and aperture-priority, or TTL/BL and aperture priority, I'm ending up with pictures that are bright in the center and dim further out. I didn't have this problem with my D2H or -Hs, nor with film.
I have Thom Hogan's book and the manual, and am digesting that slowly. However, I'm finding that without multiple flashes and the Nikon CLS, my pictures do not please me.
Please see the attached image. This was taken at the Barber Motorsports Museum in Alabama. My original photos made much of the detail and tires/wheels dark and muddied. Only with the SB900 on the camera and a SB-R200 at each corner of the display could I get what I was looking for.
With the D2H and D2Hs, the trick to making those cameras image beautifully was to set metering EV to -1/3 stop and then proper lighting and then they worked flawlessly, producing great depth of color and proper exposure every time with or without the flash.
Is there some secret to the D3s body as well, or just trial and error? Please look at the sample and say what you will.
Regards,
Kevin
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