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I am not great at higher math, so this is what I do when I strobe basketball. Set strobes to maximum power and bounce off ceiling. Take a picture with strobes off and adjust settings to where you are just barely getting a completely dark or nearly dark frame. Then turn strobes on. If they are powerful enough, you will get a much brighter frame. Adjust settings (ISO and aperture) to get a well-exposed frame with strobes firing. Then turn off transmitter and fire another shot to make sure your settings changes did not allow any additional ambient in and you still have a dark frame. If you get a really bright frame with your strobes firing, you can alternately decrease their power level, which will give you a faster flash duration time. Sometimes you need full power to overcome ambient depending on how much you lose with the bounce (ceiling color, obstacles, etc.)
In my HS gym, it is 1/500, 2.8 and ISO 8000. Dark and miserable. But, with 3 AB800s (covering 1/2 of the court) and a flash on camera (also bounced), I can get, ISO 320, 3.5 and 1/300 and get nicely lit images. The ceiling is kind of dingy white and few obstacles. It is about 30 feet above the court. I mount my strobes about 15 feet above the court on balcony level railings and bounce at an angle.
Sometimes, if your strobes are not powerful enough, you might not get a completely dark frame with your new settings and you may have to do some fine tuning. You can add more strobes if you have them. Even a flash on camera bounced helps. In your case, the darker the arena the better as you have less ambient to overcome. Typically, I only light one end of the basketball court or maybe 2/3s of it.
Forget about your shutter speeds and shoot your sync speed of 1/250. The flash duration will stop the action. I looked at the specs for the b1 air and they are fast and should have no trouble stopping the action (or at least most of it).
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