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Archive 2014 · Lens tilt/shift/swing exposure compensation

  
 
Krosavcheg
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p.1 #1 · p.1 #1 · Lens tilt/shift/swing exposure compensation


Trying to find some info before heading out on a small trip with Fuji GX680IIIPro, but can't for the love of all holy find anything on exposure compensation for film shooting..

Any general tips by any chance?

Regards



Jul 22, 2014 at 05:18 PM
jcolwell
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p.1 #2 · p.1 #2 · Lens tilt/shift/swing exposure compensation


You can get "bellows extension" compensation info on www.largeformatphotography.info I suspect you won't need that with a GX680. I have film reciprocity data sheets for really long exposures, but you probably won't need that either.

When I shot 4x5 with movements, I figured my exposures based on "no movements", using an incident light meter, and then took the photo. Generally worked OK for me.

Tip: use an incident light meter.



Jul 22, 2014 at 06:11 PM
naturephoto1
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p.1 #3 · p.1 #3 · Lens tilt/shift/swing exposure compensation


jcolwell wrote:
You can get "bellows extension" compensation info on www.largeformatphotography.info I suspect you won't need that with a GX680. I have film reciprocity data sheets for really long exposures, but you probably won't need that either.

When I shot 4x5 with movements, I figured my exposures based on "no movements", using an incident light meter, and then took the photo. Generally worked OK for me.

Tip: use an incident light meter.


I also don't recall making any corrections for tilt or swing when I was using movements on my 4" X 5" cameras for many years as well. I used a spot meter normally for my exposures (which I did using my own method for transparencies) and did not notice a need for correction. Unless you are going to start getting into close-up work you would not normally need to make exposure correction which would be dependent upon bellows extension. With the proper meter and/or parts you can meter off of the screen of the camera, but not having used a GX680 camera I am not sure if this can be done. Film reciprocity data sheets as jcolwell has mentioned are available for specific films but that would normally only apply to either very long or very short (I do not believe you can get such short exposures for the lenses that you could/would use) exposures.

Rich



Jul 22, 2014 at 06:21 PM
Krosavcheg
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p.1 #4 · p.1 #4 · Lens tilt/shift/swing exposure compensation


Thank you very much guys.
I was kind of suspecting that, we are talking minimal shifts mainly for perspective correction at relatively long focusing distances - only packing 135/5.6

I generally use Sekonic light meter for work in a studio, I think I got a viewfinder for it to measure spot..but that's not quite that helpful. iPhone light meter apps are generally working a treat though...

PS There was an exposure compensation sheet for close up focusing using extreme swings/tilts, if I recall correctly?



Jul 22, 2014 at 06:48 PM
jcolwell
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p.1 #5 · p.1 #5 · Lens tilt/shift/swing exposure compensation


I used a Sekonic Studio Deluxe II L-398M incident light meter for my MF/LF shooting, and the results were very reliable, even with fairly extreme movements (unless it got to 'hard' vignetting').

A spot meter is very handy if you're using the "Zone System", but I never got into that.

I think the requirement to adjust exposure for T-S movements and even for different Alt lenses "straight up", is related to the way "reflected light" meters are implemented in modern cameras. The in-camera meter has a specific number of discrete light measurement locations, and (esp. for DSLR) the camera "thinks it knows" how internal illumination varies for "known" lenses. IOW, if you're using a "system" lens, then the camera really does know how to behave. If you're using an Alt lens and/or movements, then the camera is at a disadvantage, and so are your exposure settings, based on the in-camera meter.

Fortunately, with modern DSLR, you can take a test image and check the histogram. Sort of like shooting a Polaroid to check your exposure, but different (on many levels).

I've always sort of half-thought that my old Seikonic meter could do a better job of metering for my T-S lenses on DSLR than the camera itself. Maybe I should dust it off...



Jul 22, 2014 at 07:10 PM
Krosavcheg
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p.1 #6 · p.1 #6 · Lens tilt/shift/swing exposure compensation


I was interested in Zone system, but never quite got around to reading more than title and then closing the book...
Though interested from a point of understanding what it all is really about...

I am using Mirex T/S adaptor with Mamiya 645 glass, and noticed the exposure all over the place. The main problem perhaps is the extreme deviations that are complete opposite to estimations.

Was hoping to leave DSLR at home and only shoot GX680, but it seems like it will have to fill the position of digital polaroid.


Ed: Lol...It seems like I unknowingly was working to Zone system all the time..)) Just had a quick read...



Jul 22, 2014 at 07:18 PM
jcolwell
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p.1 #7 · p.1 #7 · Lens tilt/shift/swing exposure compensation


I think you should leave the DSLR at home. As long as you have a decent incident light meter, you're good to go with the GX680, on its own.

I often use M645 glass with a Mirex TS adapter, but I don't think I'd want to use it as a light meter for a GX680. You'll have to 'translate' the focal length on a DSLR to an appropriate focal length on the GX680. In some cases (depending on the variation of illumination across the image), you might even have to fudge the difference between the DSLR 1.5 aspect ratio to the GX680 1.4 AR (well, maybe not).

Anyway, get a decent incident light meter (you may already have one), and leave the DSLR at home (unless you want it for more those more spontaneous shots).



Jul 22, 2014 at 07:31 PM
naturephoto1
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p.1 #8 · p.1 #8 · Lens tilt/shift/swing exposure compensation


Krosavcheg wrote:
I was interested in Zone system, but never quite got around to reading more than title and then closing the book...
Though interested from a point of understanding what it all is really about...

I am using Mirex T/S adaptor with Mamiya 645 glass, and noticed the exposure all over the place. The main problem perhaps is the extreme deviations that are complete opposite to estimations.

Was hoping to leave DSLR at home and only shoot GX680, but it seems like it will have to fill the position of digital polaroid.

Ed: Lol...It seems like I unknowingly was working to Zone system all
...Show more

I used some sort of a modified zone system when shooting transparencies to hold the highlights (normally a no no to blow out the highlights; we would let the blacks go black and as long as there wasn't too much black in the image that would be OK). Since I could normally only count on 3 1/2 to 4 stops of light on the transparency material I would normally find my brightest (normally white in the scene) and spot meter off that. Then I would open open up the lens aperture (or lens aperture and shutter speed) about 1 1/2 stop to hold some details in the whites and they would not normally blow out. Then as a precaution I would bracket in 1/2 stop increments for my Leica R cameras and Medium format Mamyia 7II or 1/2 or 1/3 stop increments for my 4" X 5" cameras. When using my Leica R cameras I would meter much the same way with the spot setting especially with very long lenses and often when shooting white birds).

Rich

Edited on Jul 22, 2014 at 07:46 PM · View previous versions



Jul 22, 2014 at 07:36 PM
Krosavcheg
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p.1 #9 · p.1 #9 · Lens tilt/shift/swing exposure compensation


Jay: Indeed. I think I still might bring it for some "instant gratification" shots and some derelict work...but I am still not sure I really want to. Point was to take time and work out compositions - GX will be perfect for that.

Just forgot...will be using Lee filters - polarizer and ND grads...need to remember to match exposure..

Nature: That's what I generally do as well. It actually gives very pleasing results!



Jul 22, 2014 at 07:41 PM





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