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Archive 2014 · Softbox Questions

  
 
jusjee
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p.1 #1 · p.1 #1 · Softbox Questions


I did some searching on this forum and couldn't find anything (maybe I'm not using the right keywords). I currently have a white shoot through umbrella and the 51" PCB PLM soft silver with the diffuser cover. This works fine for the original reason I purchased it, but I have grown fond of taking photos of my beloved beers. The PLM does a fairly good job, but the reflection leaves much to be desired since the head unit sits in front of the diffuser panel and all of this can be seen in the highly reflective glass of the bottle.

Therefore, I would like to get a couple of long rectangular soft boxes. My questions for your awesome FM'ers are:

1) I've seen some soft boxes that are "umbrella style" in which they shoot back into the box and allow light to reflect. What is the main difference between this and the regular shoot through soft boxes? I noticed the umbrella styles tend to be cheaper and I've also read they are easier to setup. What are the cons? More importantly, are there any cons that would affect my purposes?

2) I've decided on longer rectangles, but am finding that something along the lines of a 24"x36" is cheaper. I figured I can make a cover to only expose the amount of light I wish. Do any manufacturers make these already?

3) Any advice for shooting bottles?

As always, thanks FM in advance for your great wisdom!



Feb 18, 2014 at 05:07 AM
cwebster
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p.1 #2 · p.1 #2 · Softbox Questions


Advice for shooting bottles: buy and read "Light - Science & Magic" by Fuqua, Fils, and Hunter. It explains how to shoot bottles and all manner of shiny things.

This is an example of "dark field" lighting right out of that book. Two soft boxes, one on each side.

http://gallery.photo.net/photo/11521660-lg.jpg


<Chas>



Feb 18, 2014 at 11:16 AM
cbbr
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p.1 #3 · p.1 #3 · Softbox Questions


^^ This is spot on - its a great book.


Feb 18, 2014 at 11:32 AM
Mark_L
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p.1 #4 · p.1 #4 · Softbox Questions


Slight tangant but this is amazing

Using a projector and photoshop to 'paint' light where you want it.

Some manufacturers make strip flags/masks for softboxes but the result isn't the same as a strip box as the angles of light that can come through will be larger.



Feb 18, 2014 at 12:11 PM
jusjee
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p.1 #5 · p.1 #5 · Softbox Questions


Thanks all. I'll definitely pick up that book. I think it should answer most of my questions and Mark_L answered my question about the strip masks. However, I am unsure that the book will cover my question about the umbrella style vs shoot through soft boxes. Any thoughts?


Feb 18, 2014 at 11:07 PM
Steve Wylie
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p.1 #6 · p.1 #6 · Softbox Questions


Umbrella styles tend to be slightly more even across the span of the strip, while the direct ones may have more of a hot spot in the center. The quality of materials and design also make a real difference in the output.


Feb 18, 2014 at 11:55 PM
jusjee
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p.1 #7 · p.1 #7 · Softbox Questions


Steve,

Thanks for that. It seems to me that the umbrella style is better for what I intend to do. I imagine for bottles, the more even the light source the better.



Feb 19, 2014 at 03:34 AM
Roland W
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p.1 #8 · p.1 #8 · Softbox Questions


You did not mention if you were using a Speedlight flash, or studio strobes. If you are shooting with a studio strobe that has its flash tube area projecting forward from the body, a good soft box with its correct inner diffuser and its main front diffuser is going to give you nice uniform diffuse light, as good as or better than a shoot through umbrella. Classic studio strobes have the flash tube area projecting forward, which puts the light at the focus of the soft box or other modifier, and makes their optical design work just right.

If you want to consider a medium or large rectangular soft box, look at the Photoflex brand, which can easily be adapted to most any studio strobe with the right speed ring. Photoflex also sells grids and masks for their boxes, including a strip style mask that would give you a strip type effect, or you can mask the front your self with foam core board and some gaffer tape. Masking is easy with the flat board attached to the flat front. And of course when you are past the strip need, you end up with a very good general purpose soft box that can give very uniform light.

If you want to use a shoot through umbrella, you will need to carefully mask the light in some way to get your rectangular light source effect, but it will take extra work to hold the mask where you want it, because the shoot through umbrella is not flat on the front. Black foam core board held by something else and a bunch of time can work, but if you change the setup, or want to recreated a type of setup again at a later date, the time will be required again.



Feb 20, 2014 at 11:06 AM
pjbuehner
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p.1 #9 · p.1 #9 · Softbox Questions


I am a big fan of Paul Buff gear. It is inexpensive, good quality, and they have customer service like no other. I have a couple of his strip boxes which I think would be perfect for you. with two diffuser panels, the light will be nice and even and if you get the grid for each box, you can control that soft light very well.

Paul Buff strip box link



Feb 20, 2014 at 11:24 AM
jusjee
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p.1 #10 · p.1 #10 · Softbox Questions


Thanks for all of the replies! I am using a B1600 and would like to purchase an Einstein as my second light.


Feb 21, 2014 at 07:47 PM
leftcoastlefty
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p.1 #11 · p.1 #11 · Softbox Questions


First off, if you have any common sense, don't read further. It will cost you much time and money. Drinking beer is far easier than photographing it.

I shoot a lot of bottles with White Lightnings (part of the PCB family). "Light - Science & Magic" is the book you want. You will likely need a minimum of three lights and preferably four. Two strip softboxes work great for rim lighting. And for other work, I really like the octaboxes. PCB softboxes are great. I hate the flimsy PLM.

I'm not certain I understand your question about umbrella style vs shoot through soft boxes, but I'm pretty certain you want softboxes. With glass, you aren't really photographing the subject, but rather the light source reflected in it. The front end of a PCB softbox offers a flat wall of very consistent light. Any inconsistency in the light (caused by umbrella spokes, flash units, power cords, light stands, etc) can show in the final image.

But lights are only the start. To do it right, you will end up building an elaborate studio platform to shoot on. And you will keep modifying it as your technique evolves. You end up buying an insane amount of accessories not found on B&H or PCB. I just put money down on a studio because I outgrew my spare bedroom.



Feb 26, 2014 at 09:38 AM





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