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Vanadium
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p.1 #1 · p.1 #1 · questions


A few more questions for the macro users in this forum.

I should mention that I made a thread in the Nikon forum asking for macro advice: http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/1274023/0#12141184
There were a lot of helpful replies. Now that I have done some more reading on the subject, I have a few more focused questions.

1 I'm sold on the idea of purchasing a manual lens vs an autofocus lens. I'm less clear on which type of extension tubes to purchase. It seems that non-automated tubes are adequate for macro so long as your lens has a manual aperture ring. Would most agree with this claim?
2 I'm confused about what exactly is needed for TTL metering. In the above scenario (non-automated tubes), would an SB700 attached to my Nikon d600 properly meter? Would I need to first set the camera into a different mode (stop down metering mode) ?
3 When discussing a manual-focus lens with max aperture f/4, Ken Rockwell says that f/4 is fine as long as you don't mind a darker view finder. Am I correct in interpreting this as, "the photos will be great, but you won't be able to see or frame your shots as well" ?
4 What is the best way to offset a mounted flash so it is not directly above the lens? Will a long, trapezoidal diffuser without flash offset be an acceptable compromise?
5 Rockwell says that while ~100mm lenses give you a decent working distance, the perspective at which they take photos is unnatural. Any differing opinions on this? How much does unnatural perspective matter when taking pictures of really small objects?
6 Recommendations on manual focus lenses for Nikon macro (to be used with extension tubes)?

Thanks for reading.



Feb 18, 2014 at 05:50 AM
e6filmuser
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p.1 #2 · p.1 #2 · questions


Vanadium wrote:
1 I'm sold on the idea of purchasing a manual lens vs an autofocus lens. I'm less clear on which type of extension tubes to purchase. It seems that non-automated tubes are adequate for macro so long as your lens has a manual aperture ring. Would most agree with this claim?


I rarely use anything else. You need to ensure that for conventional mounting the adapter operates the aperture when you mount the lens i.e. it engages the close-down button, lever, or whatever. If you are going to use the lens reversed you ideally need a lens in which the detached lens works a manual diaphrgm e.g. Nikon.

Vanadium wrote:
2 I'm confused about what exactly is needed for TTL metering. In the above scenario (non-automated tubes), would an SB700 attached to my Nikon d600 properly meter? Would I need to first set the camera into a different mode (stop down metering mode) ?


I'll leave that to someone with specialist knowledge. However, if the only linkage between camera and system lens is mechanical to the diaphragm there should be no problem, even with the lens reversed.

Vanadium wrote:
3 When discussing a manual-focus lens with max aperture f/4, Ken Rockwell says that f/4 is fine as long as you don't mind a darker view finder. Am I correct in interpreting this as, "the photos will be great, but you won't be able to see or frame your shots as well" ?


f4 is quite a wide aperture. I rarely use (stopped down) anything wider than f8, more often f11 or f16. The electronic viewfinder can give a much brighter image than an SLR. With practice, you can work well with dimmer viewfinder images.

Vanadium wrote:
4 What is the best way to offset a mounted flash so it is not directly above the lens? Will a long, trapezoidal diffuser without flash offset be an acceptable compromise?


I use an L bracket.

Vanadium wrote:
5 Rockwell says that while ~100mm lenses give you a decent working distance, the perspective at which they take photos is unnatural. Any differing opinions on this? How much does unnatural perspective matter when taking pictures of really small objects?


Because of the shallow DOF this is probably less of an issue with macro than with other fields of photography.

Vanadium wrote:
6 Recommendations on manual focus lenses for Nikon macro (to be used with extension tubes)?


If you have a Nikon 50mm you may like to start with that reversed.

See what others use. I use quite a few lenses, of various makes and focal lengths. I also use high quality supplementaries in for of some lenses.

Harold



Feb 18, 2014 at 08:14 AM
e6filmuser
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p.1 #3 · p.1 #3 · questions


Vanadium wrote:
Will a long, trapezoidal diffuser without flash offset be an acceptable compromise?

I didn't address this issue in my reply.

When I took up macro, in the 1980s, I understood that the "modelling" provided by shadows was important in images. Many advanced macro specialists now use much more diffuse lighting, often +/- shadowless, sometimes high key.

I have found diffusion gives my images a different look and using an improvised light box even more so. Most of this has been done from the hot shoe. The main problem with this is that the tip of the extension, in particular any hood, may cast a shadow, in which case directing light from the side is one option. Another is to mount the flash some distance forward on the extension.

I have expanded on some of my points, by request, in a PM. However, I am not familiar enough with Nikon gear to be able to say how to choose and use a flash shoe on an off-camera bracket (e.g. L-bracket) in the context of Nikon flash triggering.

Harold



Feb 20, 2014 at 09:50 AM





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