JimFox Offline Upload & Sell: Off
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prcentauri1 wrote:
Thanks. When you sharpen after you downsize what kind of radius roughly are we talking? Is it better to reduce size for web then save as jpg or convert to jpg first and then resize? Does it matter?
I can tell you how I do it, with some of this people will have their own preferences which doesn't really make for a right or wrong way, it's the way that works for you...
I actually make 2 jpgs, 1 for printing and 1 for the web. A lot more places can print from tiff's now, but for me, printing from a jpg produces great results and a lot smaller of a file or files.
So my steps are as follows, and note, while I do a raw conversion to tiff, as soon as I pull them into Photoshop itself, I am doing all my work in Photoshops PSD format.
1. Change the Mode to 8bit from 16bit. This is in the Image Menu.
2. Convert the color profile to sRGB, this provides the most standard format for both web viewing and printing. If you have a specialty printing house, perhaps you go different, but for me, this is what I do. Be sure you "convert" and not "assign" the profile. This is under the Edit menu. And the first time you will have to select sRGB as the destination profile, but CS5/6 etc will retain that for the future for you. Doing this will ensure your colors work across multiple platforms as sRGB is the common to most, especially for web viewing.
3. Go to Save as, and I choose to save it as a 10 instead of a 12. For printing purposes, at least that I have seen, a photo will look just as good printed as a 10 as it does as a 12. Again, saves memory space, which is not as big of a deal now. But it's how I have been doing it for years.
So now you have a print version.
4. I take this one, and will resize it myself under the Image menu, choose Image Size. Now for image downsizing, there will be lot's of different or varying thoughts on how to do it. With our newer larger pixel count cameras, I have had to change it up a bit, but I will go over the basic sequence I do.
4a. First I change the DPI from 300 to 72. A few of my friends in here have said this step is not needed, but I guess I am just too used to web images being 72dpi, so I have stuck with it...
4b. Second, change the image size down to 800 pix on it's widest end, which will leave the shorter side at about 600 pix. Now this of course you can set to what you desire. That's the size I display my photos on the web both in my gallery and here on FM.
4c. Third, the Sharpening. Depending on the image, you may make a quick layer mask, or you just may use the lasso tool with a slight feathering to select just the ground. But depending on the image I will then use UnSharp mask on the ground area at about 20 to 25, with a Thresholld of 0 and a Radius of 1.0. That will sharpen it back up nicely for the web.
4d. I then save the jpg again, keeping it as a 10, and this is my web version.
Note: With Image sizing, for years I always just used the default setting of Bicubic Automatic for the method of resizing. But with my D800, I found that it would make the shot look too sharp and crunchy. So I switched to Bicubic(Best for smooth gradients) . I am not sure with your Mark III, since it is a pretty high resolution camera too. So just experiment without changing the sizing method first.
I hope that helps. Others may chime in too, as there are a zillion different ways to do this. I have always tried to keep this end of the processing very simple. Less complication is better. Maybe others have simpler ways to do it. I know there are a lot of ways a lot more complicated, but for me, I really never visually saw a difference worth the added complications.
Jim
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