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p.1 #3 · p.1 #3 · questions about astro/star/night sky photography | |
Hey TJ,
Most of us are shooting are static star shots at much closer to 30 secs, not 15 secs. Remember focal length is the determining factor. Plus, if you are going for shots without any absolute movement, then you need to get a tracking device. Shooting wideangle, there will be some movement, but it's movement that is seen when viewing at 100%. I could post tons of star shots taken at 25 to 30 secs and you won't be able to percieve any movement.
This question is a popular one, and if you search in here you will see dozens of threads that discuss the how to of taking static star shots. So a brief answer here.
As Tyler discusses, what camera you use will make a difference because if you want static shots, you will be using higher ISO's. As you probably already know the sky will get darker and darker after the sun sets. So your settings will also change.
Start at ISO 1600, f8 and say 15 secs. As it gets darker you will change your settings to go along with it. I usually go a little longer with the shutter speed first, then open up the aperture a bit. When you get to a 25 sec exposure at f4, then I would then increase the ISO as needed. Depending on how dark it is, it won't be uncommon to settle in a 30 sec exposure at ISO 4000 and f4. For me, I watch the histogram and not the LCD to gauge my exposure. Usually I expose so that it's 2 stops underexposed.
As you can see, settings can be very fluid, and I am sure others have variations. I know some that drop to f2.8 faster if they can. I am usually having foreground in my shots, so I do want to keep some DOF in my shots, so I prefer not to go all the way down to f2.8. But again, it's situational.
Hopefully that helps, but if you get a chance, I would definitely search the term "Milky Way" in here as there has been some really cool Milky Way shots recently, and there will be tips in there for you.
Jim
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