ben egbert Offline Upload & Sell: Off
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hugowolf wrote:
Spring clips will certainly cause warping, if you don’t glaze. It isn’t just the pressure, it is pressure applied only at certain places along the frame edge. You can however, bend the spring clips a little to reduce the tension – this helps a great deal with the prevention of warping.
If you are using wooden frames, then framing points are definitely the best way. There is no pressure on the mat, they just hold the whole thing in place. It only takes a minute or two to remove the points, replace the print, and repoint. Just bend the points up and remove with pliers.
I don’t know how many times you can repoint without problems, but probably hundreds as long as you don’t go over the top with the number of points you use. 100, changing once every two months would give 16 years with the same frame. A point gun isn’t expensive.
I guess you agree that I can free float the mat if I hinge mount the image to the foamcore.
You can, but it is still better to hinge the mat to the board for the reasons I outlined in the previous reply. If the mat is free, which would allow the use of the same mat in the frame, I would rotate the mat 180º when you change prints (providing the mats are cut with the window centred top to bottom and not bottom weighted)..
Brian A
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I guess a hinge mounted mat could also be cut free and reused. In fact hinge mounts allow reuse of everything because they are easy to cut off. This is what I do, I simply cut them rather than attempt to unfasten them.
My previous statement about dedicating the assembly to the image was based on using double sided tape which is very hard to unstick without ruining something.
The mats are the most valuable. The foamcore is cheap to replace and of course if I am taking down an image, it has lost much of its value.
But friends and family who accept my old work as gifts are daunted by the framing and mounting problem. Even a matted backed image is a problem because the frame is the biggest cost item in the package.
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