Home · Register · Search · View Winners · Software · Hosting · Software · Join Upload & Sell

Moderated by: Fred Miranda
Username   Password

  New fredmiranda.com Mobile Site
  New Feature: SMS Notification alert
  New Feature: Buy & Sell Watchlist
  

FM Forums | General Gear-talk | Join Upload & Sell

1
       2       end
  

Archive 2013 · Lever-Clamp question.
  
 
Cableaddict
Offline
• • • •
Upload & Sell: Off
p.1 #1 · p.1 #1 · Lever-Clamp question.


Hey, folks.

I'm thinking of getting a lever-clamp for my monopod head, bu something puzzles me:

I recently saw some video where a pro photographer was using one, and mounted his camera from ABOVE the clamp. He set it in-place, then locked the lever.

I have a lever-clamp on my tripod rig, but had never tried this before as I prefer to slide the camera on, with a tripod. However, with a monopod, it would be great to come down from on top.

So, I tried it, but it doesn't work with this clamp, which is one of the well-made Asian types. (It has the adjustment screw, so as to properly fit any plate.) If I loosen the clamp enough for the plate to enter from on top, then it doesn't tighten securely once clamped.

------------------

I need to know if there is any lever-clamp that would work. Maybe that photographer had some mod done, or maybe he was able to deal with the looseness?

I use only RRS plates, so maybe the RRS lever-clamp?

-thanks.

Edited on Jul 08, 2013 at 01:31 AM · View previous versions



Jul 08, 2013 at 12:07 AM
WiLLGT09
Offline
• •
Upload & Sell: On
p.1 #2 · p.1 #2 · Lever-Clamp question.


I have a couple RRS lever clamps, and I always drop it in from the top, then snap the lever shut. I never realized this could be an issue with other brands of lever clamps (I've never used any other brands). I do know that I have to open the clamp all the way in order to mount or dismount the camera in this way. If the lever is in the "middle" position (perpendicular to the plate) then there is not enough clearance to mount or dismount the camera, although you could slide the camera in and out.


Jul 08, 2013 at 01:17 AM
Gochugogi
Offline
• • • • •
Upload & Sell: Off
p.1 #3 · p.1 #3 · Lever-Clamp question.


I have Arca clamps from RRS, Hejnar, Kirk and Sunwayfoto and top load all of them. It's a lot easier to line up with a heavy rig or in dim light. I tend to bang my gear up a lot more if I slide in. The Sunwayfoto clamps (Chinese) are fine with Sunwayfoto plates but don't open far enough for my Camadapter Arca Plus or RRS plates. It a shame as they are really well made otherwise. Most Arca plates have 38mm dovetails and the RRS and Camadapter plates are slightly wider.


Jul 08, 2013 at 01:28 AM
Cableaddict
Offline
• • • •
Upload & Sell: Off
p.1 #4 · p.1 #4 · Lever-Clamp question.


Thanks, guys.

I'll order an RRS clamp tomorrow.

This is a HUGE thing with monopods, especially, so I'm surprised that no one has mentioned it before. I certainly have never read about this.



Jul 08, 2013 at 01:32 AM
sjms
Online
• • • • • •
Upload & Sell: On
p.1 #5 · p.1 #5 · Lever-Clamp question.


actually all the RRS plates I have from 1990s on to today are pretty much 38mm in width . per the old Fowler dial caliper (1.496") and as a back up my little executive pocket chum (38mm).

if you are using the plates with the safety stops screwed into them dropping them in to the clamp works just a little better.





sjms 2013


RRS D7000 base of L plate (2012 vintage)

  X20    17mm    f/2.5    1/14s    400 ISO    0.0 EV  







RRS plate 80A Circa early to mid 1990s (note it is not hollowed out)

  X20    19mm    f/2.5    1/105s    1250 ISO    0.0 EV  



Edited on Jul 08, 2013 at 05:06 AM · View previous versions



Jul 08, 2013 at 03:31 AM
mogud
Offline
• • •
Upload & Sell: On
p.1 #6 · p.1 #6 · Lever-Clamp question.


The reason why the photographer you saw was top loading was because there were stop screws at either end of the plate on the bottom to prevent the plate from sliding out of the clamp if accidentally not completely clamped down.


Jul 08, 2013 at 03:41 AM
Gochugogi
Offline
• • • • •
Upload & Sell: Off
p.1 #7 · p.1 #7 · Lever-Clamp question.


According to my calipers, the dovetail on my Camadapter Arca Plus plate is 39.5mm, the Sunwayfoto plate 38.5mm, Acratech 2176 plate 38.5mm and the RRS L plate 37.5mm. That's a lot of difference. I stopped using the Camadapter Arca Plus because it wouldn't top load in all my clamps. I thought the RRS was larger but it's actually the smallest plate I own.


Jul 08, 2013 at 09:43 AM
sjms
Online
• • • • • •
Upload & Sell: On
p.1 #8 · p.1 #8 · Lever-Clamp question.


variations due to caliper placement +/- 0.5mm

jaw opening on an original (first run) 60mm RRS lever lock at top of the jaw is approx. (1.492") 37.89mm
very slight interference fit when plate is placed in flat from above.

jaw opening on a 2 year old BH40 (50mm) LL taken at same approx. location (1.522") 38.66mm
clean drop in

did my other most recent clamp (BH30/50mm) and found it was in the range of the BH40 measurement with variations in the range of +/-0.5mm for mechanical slop.

just having fun with my old tools of the trade.


Edited on Jul 08, 2013 at 01:40 PM · View previous versions



Jul 08, 2013 at 01:01 PM
Jman13
Offline
• • • • • •
Upload & Sell: On
p.1 #9 · p.1 #9 · Lever-Clamp question.


I've always used Kirk and RRS for my plates and most of my clamps (My current ballhead is a Photoclam, but it top-loads all my plates fine). They all can top-load just fine....I'd feel weird side-loading them (and my ballhead clamp has a pin for slip prevention as well, so it'd be hard too).


Jul 08, 2013 at 01:29 PM
sjms
Online
• • • • • •
Upload & Sell: On
p.1 #10 · p.1 #10 · Lever-Clamp question.


the RRS LL has an intermediate open position for sliding and balance adjustment but still allows the safety stops to be engaged, if installed, and will not allow a vertical ejection.


Jul 08, 2013 at 01:32 PM
 

Search in Used Dept. 



jcolwell
Online
• • • • • • •
Upload & Sell: On
p.1 #11 · p.1 #11 · Lever-Clamp question.


sjms wrote:
the RRS LL has an intermediate open position for sliding and balance adjustment but still allows the safety stops to be engaged, if installed, and will not allow a vertical ejection.


+1

With the lever at 90 degrees, you can slide the plate/rail, but not lift it out of the clamp. With the lever all of the way open, you can "top load" the plate or rail.

I use RRS and Hejnar lens plates, rails, and camera L-brackets on my RRS lever clamps.


Edited on Jul 20, 2013 at 11:59 AM · View previous versions



Jul 08, 2013 at 02:48 PM
campyone
Offline
• •
Upload & Sell: Off
p.1 #12 · p.1 #12 · Lever-Clamp question.


I've used an Arca-Swiss head and plate (B1) and currently use RRS head, plate, and L bracket. With a heavy camera (1Ds Mark III) I find it much easier to slide the plate/bracket in rather than trying to drop it in. But I'm not sure why it makes all that much difference either way. Is there some advantage to dropping it in that I've missed?


Jul 08, 2013 at 02:57 PM
Jman13
Offline
• • • • • •
Upload & Sell: On
p.1 #13 · p.1 #13 · Lever-Clamp question.


Speed...


Jul 08, 2013 at 03:07 PM
jcolwell
Online
• • • • • • •
Upload & Sell: On
p.1 #14 · p.1 #14 · Lever-Clamp question.


Many plates have end screws that prevent them from sliding out by mistake, and so you can't slide them in, either. Like those on my 70-200/2.8L IS II, 300/2.8L IS, and 500/4L IS.


Jul 08, 2013 at 03:10 PM
Roland W
Offline
• • •
Upload & Sell: On
p.1 #15 · p.1 #15 · Lever-Clamp question.


Measuring the width of the dovetail on an Arca Swiss plate with a measurement across the tips of the dovetail tells little about the final fit in the clamp. The radius at the tip can easily vary quite a bit, and that will change what you measure there, but it has nothing to do with how it clamps. The separation of the slanted flat sides of the dovetail in relation to the flat bottom of the plate are what determine the fit of a plate in a lever clamp, and that dimensional relationship is not easily measured with hand tools.

I use mostly Really Right Stuff and Wimberley plates, and thus have no problems with fit in my many RRS lever clamps. I have a few other plates that I got for various reasons, and at times let others use my gear with their plates, and the way I "measure" them is to see if they fit right in my RRS lever clamps. I have run in to a few plates or L brackets that are too large for the RRS lever clamp to close properly and clamp. I have also run in to a few plates that were too small to clamp tightly, including one that was defective compared to another of the identical batch from the same manufacturer. But every RRS and every Wimberley plate I own or have experience with fit perfectly.

With a RRS lever clamp, it is very easy and fast to open far enough to top load in to the clamp, and that is basically the only way I use them. I can see that if you used screw clamps only, you might want to side load just to avoid the time and effort it would takes to open the clamp far enough to top load. Because of habit for me, when I do use a screw clamp, I still top load only, because of my long experience with top loading on RRS lever clamps.



Jul 08, 2013 at 03:13 PM
peter_n
Offline
• • •
Upload & Sell: On
p.1 #16 · p.1 #16 · Lever-Clamp question.


I use Markins screw clamps and a self-adjusting RRS lever clamp. I top load onto all of them, mostly because the Markins clamps have a spring-loaded safety detent pin in their clamps (which saved my bacon on one occasion). Top loading the RRS B2 LR II lever clamp works just fine.




Jul 08, 2013 at 05:26 PM
Gochugogi
Offline
• • • • •
Upload & Sell: Off
p.1 #17 · p.1 #17 · Lever-Clamp question.


Roland W wrote:
Measuring the width of the dovetail on an Arca Swiss plate with a measurement across the tips of the dovetail tells little about the final fit in the clamp. The radius at the tip can easily vary quite a bit, and that will change what you measure there, but it has nothing to do with how it clamps. The separation of the slanted flat sides of the dovetail in relation to the flat bottom of the plate are what determine the fit of a plate in a lever clamp, and that dimensional relationship is not easily measured with hand
...Show more

True, the dovetail width doesn't say a lot about how well it fits into the dovetail joint of the clamp, but it gives you an idea which plates that will or will not top load in certain clamps. I have a DuelPlate (for Capture Camera Clip system) I briefly used and it has the worse fit of any plate I've tried. The angle and size of the dovetail is uneven and barely penetrates into the clamp dovetail joint. It penetrates the Kirk clamp 1 to 1.5mm and the Sunwayfoto is barely hanging onto the plate with .5 to 1mm of grip.



Jul 08, 2013 at 05:56 PM
sjms
Online
• • • • • •
Upload & Sell: On
p.1 #18 · p.1 #18 · Lever-Clamp question.


the angle of the dovetail is what pushes the plate vertically down into the base. multiple angle forces.


Jul 08, 2013 at 07:39 PM
Cableaddict
Offline
• • • •
Upload & Sell: Off
p.1 #19 · p.1 #19 · Lever-Clamp question.


Gochugogi wrote:


True, the dovetail width doesn't say a lot about how well it fits into the dovetail joint of the clamp, but it gives you an idea which plates that will or will not top load in certain clamps. .



I think it has more to do with the total "throw" of the lever clamp. Obviously, some swing open more than others.

According to sjms post, above, even the older RRS clamps swing slightly less than the newer ones.


Who knew?



Jul 11, 2013 at 12:34 PM
sjms
Online
• • • • • •
Upload & Sell: On
p.1 #20 · p.1 #20 · Lever-Clamp question.


it still allowed for a simple drop in. then they decided to refine it a little bit. it is just a point of reference. its been "refined" more then once.

the Markins design is a simple spring loaded pin which is easily pushed down if one prefers to do the slide on.

both work. its all a matter of personal preference. if I wished to slide an RRS plate in from the end all I would need to do is remove one of the end stop screws (with the included allen wrench) to allow for insertion

point of reference: the original RRS plates had no stops. a few years in there was an allen screw stop added to one end. I removed these as I did not find them optimal in use.






  NIKON D7000    17.0-70.0 mm f/2.8-4.0 lens    70mm    f/10.0    1/6s    6400 ISO    -0.3 EV  




Jul 11, 2013 at 01:41 PM
1
       2       end




FM Forums | General Gear-talk | Join Upload & Sell

1
       2       end
    
 

You are not logged in. Login or Register

Username   Password    Reset password