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Archive 2013 · Cheetah CL-180 bare-bulb flash
  
 
cineski
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p.2 #1 · p.2 #1 · Cheetah CL-180 bare-bulb flash


Can the Cheetah light trigger before full recycle is complete? Strongly considering one of these myself just as a light weight companion to my Einstein.


Jul 03, 2013 at 07:12 PM
BigIronCruiser
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p.2 #2 · p.2 #2 · Cheetah CL-180 bare-bulb flash


cineski wrote:
Can the Cheetah light trigger before full recycle is complete? Strongly considering one of these myself just as a light weight companion to my Einstein.


The Cheetah will not trigger until the Test/Ready light is illuminated, so the answer is no. My situation was similar to yours, meaning that I had (and still have) several Einstein's, and was looking for a solution that would be easier/lighter to transport. The Cheetah's have worked flawlessly, so the Einstein's are spending a lot of time on the shelf.



Jul 04, 2013 at 04:05 AM
cineski
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p.2 #3 · p.2 #3 · Cheetah CL-180 bare-bulb flash


That sucks. No go for me. I need them to trigger regardless of full charge or not.


Jul 04, 2013 at 04:21 AM
BigIronCruiser
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p.2 #4 · p.2 #4 · Cheetah CL-180 bare-bulb flash


cineski wrote:
That sucks. No go for me. I need them to trigger regardless of full charge or not.


Why would you want a flash to pop if it can't produce the light you need? Can you explain?

By the way, the recycle time on the Cheetah CL-360 at 1/4 power is almost instantaneous. Cheetah will also be selling a 2-to-1 power cable that feeds the flash from both battery outlets, and that will improve the recycle time even further. I think you can find demo video's on Youtube or the Cheetah website.



Jul 04, 2013 at 10:38 PM
BrianO
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p.2 #5 · p.2 #5 · Cheetah CL-180 bare-bulb flash


cineski wrote:
That sucks. No go for me. I need them to trigger regardless of full charge or not.


With an ETTL Speedlite, firing before full charge is achieved isn't a major problem becasue the flash usually doesn't need a full charge to produce a proper exposure; but with a manual flash, firing before fully charged will often result in under-exposure, so locking it out makes sense to me.



Jul 06, 2013 at 03:46 AM
dmward
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p.2 #6 · p.2 #6 · Cheetah CL-180 bare-bulb flash


A couple of things;
Hobby is free to have his opinions; the reality is that Einsteins and Cheetah Lights are different tools for different applications. Does the 360 have a long t.1 - yes according to the spec sheet. That also means that people have been able to use them up to 1/8000 shutter speed at 1/1 power. More important, if someone wants to tackle the sun, is that the Cheetah Light has an H mode that emulates HSS by providing an FP-sync mode with elongated firing in a rapid pulse. Naturally that means less output but the 1/1 H mode output is about half the M mode output which means the light can provide from full out put to 1/16 (1/8 H mode) output at any shutter speed.

Disclaimer: I was asked to test the Cheetah Light Cells Iic trigger to verify that it will work with a Canon 5DIII. It does. I have purchased and use the Cheetah Lights. The main purpose for this testing was to verify that the Cheetah Light will perform in FP-sync up to the maximum shutter speed of the camera.



Jul 20, 2013 at 03:54 AM
 

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Mike Tuomey
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p.2 #7 · p.2 #7 · Cheetah CL-180 bare-bulb flash


dmward wrote:
Does the 360 have a long t.1 - yes according to the spec sheet. That also means that people have been able to use them up to 1/8000 shutter speed at 1/1 power.


How do people use the Cheetahs this way? Specifically, how do I radio-trigger the flash at, say, 1/8000 if my camera max sync speed is 1/250? Can this be done without HSS? Sorry if this is a stupid question, but I'm missing something here (yes, I know, experience and knowledge ).



Jul 20, 2013 at 02:15 PM
BrianO
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p.2 #8 · p.2 #8 · Cheetah CL-180 bare-bulb flash


Mike Tuomey wrote:
...how do I radio-trigger the flash at, say, 1/8000 if my camera max sync speed is 1/250? Can this be done without HSS?


It can be done without HSS if you have a trigger like the Pocket Wizard ControlTL system that has a HyperSync feature. That allows you to adjust the trigger timing to fire the flash early and then catch the long tail of the flash curve as the shutter slit moves across the frame.

However, since the Cheetah Light -- unlike most strobes and flashes of that power level -- does have HSS/FP capability, that's the easier and more flexible way to go.



Jul 20, 2013 at 03:06 PM
dmward
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p.2 #9 · p.2 #9 · Cheetah CL-180 bare-bulb flash


The Cheetah Light has to be in H mode for power levels below full power. That activates the rapid cycling that creates a flat power level for the time it takes the shutter slit to travel across the sensor. To make that happen, the camera sends an FP-sync pulse to fire the flash just a bit before the shutter travel starts so the light will be on when it starts.

In order to get the camera to recognize the FP-sync one has to have a device attached to the hot shoe that the camera thinks is a HSS enabled speedlites. The ControlTL triggers (FlexTT5 or MiniTT1), the Yongnou YN-622 and the the Cells II trigger available from Cheetah has the required pins and firmware to make this happen. There may be others but those are the only ones I have either used or seen specific examples from. I have also seen examples of the ControlTL Nikon devices working to support H mode.

As with a speedlite, the need for the capacitor energy to fire the flash tube rapidly for the duration of the shutter travel means that less illuminate will be striking the sensor through the slit as it travels. With the Cheetah Light it remains consistent at about 1EV less than an equivalent power setting using x-sync. i.e. a shutter speed less than x-xync speed on the camera.

Here's an example of how it can be used in bright sun;
The camera was a 5DIII, about 1/4000 shutter, ISO 100, F2.8 about 2:00p CDT in Chicago so the sun was high and bright. The CL-360 was camera right, basically opposite the sun to open up the shadows. The light was at H mode 1/2.

http://www.dmwfotos.com/4web/CL0759.jpg



Jul 20, 2013 at 09:41 PM
BrianO
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p.2 #10 · p.2 #10 · Cheetah CL-180 bare-bulb flash


Hmm. I just read this in the CL-360 Manual:

"Hi-speed sync triggering mode is not available when the flash unit is mounted onto the camera hotshoe."

Add that's it's not ETTL-capable and it's a deal-killer for me. I guess I'll have to limit my wish-list to the Quantum Trio.



Jul 20, 2013 at 10:07 PM
dmward
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p.2 #11 · p.2 #11 · Cheetah CL-180 bare-bulb flash


Brian,
The Cheetah Lights, both 180 and 360 have only the center pin on their foot.
The FP-Sync capability is available via the Cells II trigger. The remote power adjustment is available via the CL-Tx which can also act as a remote trigger at x-sync and below.



Jul 20, 2013 at 11:14 PM
Cableaddict
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p.2 #12 · p.2 #12 · Cheetah CL-180 bare-bulb flash


BrianO wrote:
It can be done without HSS if you have a trigger like the Pocket Wizard ControlTL system that has a HyperSync feature. That allows you to adjust the trigger timing to fire the flash early and then catch the long tail of the flash curve as the shutter slit moves across the frame.

However, since the Cheetah Light -- unlike most strobes and flashes of that power level -- does have HSS/FP capability, that's the easier and more flexible way to go.



It would be very illuminating ( ) to do a test with the CL-360, between HSS and Hypersync (using either a PW or Odin controller) at various shutter speeds. Surely results will vary, in terms of:

* Total brightness achievable. (how much stop loss with each.)
* Range of usable shutter speeds, with "reasonably" even frame illumination.
* Consistency of brightness over the whole frame.
* Consistency of color.


Does anyone know of such a test?



Mar 31, 2014 at 07:43 PM
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