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Archive 2013 · variable ND, what is this?

pmiller228
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p.2 #1 · p.2 #1 · variable ND, what is this?

I use the cybersync so I can't try this:

http://www.flickr.com/groups/pocketwizards/discuss/72157626731979711/#comment72157626735815375

Jun 04, 2013 at 10:44 AM

SargentRay
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p.2 #2 · p.2 #2 · variable ND, what is this?

pmiller228 wrote:
Would it be easier/more cost effective to pick up an ab800 to hypersync with when you don't need the other benefits of the Einsteins?

Yep indeed, or simply use my speedlites. The only problem is that the dam 900s overheat all the time, not to mention that they are not as powerful as studio lights. I'm still going to try to bring back the filter and possibly exchange it for 1 or 2 normal NDs.

Jun 04, 2013 at 12:48 PM

Batty_F
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p.2 #3 · p.2 #3 · variable ND, what is this?

@SargentRay I have the Lee kit sitting here, with a 2-stop ND and an ND Grad, but haven't had a chance to try them out yet. Was hoping to test with the Lee Big Stopper, but it's taking forever to actually get one of those.

I have an old White Lightning X2400, have tried HyperSync a bit with it. I thought the X2400 would be ideal for HyperSync, but against constant-color subjects (like a cream-colored wall), I always get some sort of gradient with HyperSync, the light is never perfectly even like a normal flash burst. So I think I'll go the ND filter path similarly to what you're thinking.

Jun 04, 2013 at 05:00 PM

SargentRay
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p.2 #4 · p.2 #4 · variable ND, what is this?

Batty_F wrote:
@SargentRay I have the Lee kit sitting here, with a 2-stop ND and an ND Grad, but haven't had a chance to try them out yet. Was hoping to test with the Lee Big Stopper, but it's taking forever to actually get one of those.

I have an old White Lightning X2400, have tried HyperSync a bit with it. I thought the X2400 would be ideal for HyperSync, but against constant-color subjects (like a cream-colored wall), I always get some sort of gradient with HyperSync, the light is never perfectly even like a normal flash burst. So I think I'll go...Show more →

Hello Batty, yeah tell me about hyper syncing the Einsteins, they are probably the worst studio flash to do it because of it's IGBT technology which reduces the flash duration but more importantly cuts of the "tail" part of the flash's burst which is quintessential to achieve any kind of effective Hyper Sync. And this only partially feasible at maximum output only (t1).

Edited on Jun 07, 2013 at 08:00 AM · View previous versions

Jun 05, 2013 at 11:48 PM

SargentRay
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p.2 #5 · p.2 #5 · variable ND, what is this?

@ PBurke,

Well man i must thank you because you were right after all, the pattern is indeed noise created due to a dramatic under exposure of my RAW files. In my own defense once on the shoot even though i got there early and did some test shots way ahead of time, one of the other photographers got there late and when he started shooting his Pocket Wizards took control of my flash and i had to revert quickly to manual Chinese triggers loosing my Control CL channels for the day. This despite my asking a week before which channels everybody were going to use in order for me to reprogram the TT5. But this self proclaimed "pro" never bothered answering. Contrary to the other PW devices there is no dial to make the Power MC2 antennas learn a new channel on site by changing it somehow on the device. Unless i am doing something wrong, but i didn't have the time to do it anyways as the kids started arriving at our booths when all this happened. I did look at my histogram and although from what i could see in direct sunlight, it seemed ok just a little to the left. In retrospect i must have been a good 4 stops under since i was unable to re create the "anomaly" in the tests i did today going as much as 3 stops under both by dialing down the filter and reducing exposure.

As you can see below on my tests it is interesting to observe just how much contrast is affected by the Genus filter even at 0 setting. But it is a great help to kill ambient when you can't go higher than x sync speed. (sorry for the french titles, the pictures taken w the filter are in the bottom row, the top ones taken without the filter)

Conclusion. If you must kill ambient and cannot Hyper Sync to do so the use of a good quality ND filter has to be considered. But it will affect to an extend the overall quality of the image but most importantly you have to really get your shots properly exposed. Too much of an under exposure even on a RAW file will cause some kind of noise problem in the dark out of focus parts of the photo.

All the individual shots can be viewed in a bigger format here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/sargentray/sets/72157633948785347/

1-)A general view of my comparative tests, notice the contrast change when the filter is applied. Also noticeable is the warped blotch appearing at -3 stops down of the filter on the BG.

2-) With a flash added to the scene it already improves the overall image.

3-) Once the flash is balanced relative to ambient it is hard to tell a filter was utilized

4-)Final results with minimum adjustments in LR4

So again PBurke thanks for putting me on the right track :-)

Edited on Jun 07, 2013 at 08:02 AM · View previous versions

Jun 06, 2013 at 12:23 AM

pburke
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p.2 #6 · p.2 #6 · variable ND, what is this?

Don't thank me, thank Mr. Spock

Jun 06, 2013 at 12:33 AM

SargentRay
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p.2 #7 · p.2 #7 · variable ND, what is this?

pburke wrote:
Don't thank me, thank Mr. Spock

He helped a lot and near the end he just collapsed and asked; Ship, out of danger ?

Jun 06, 2013 at 12:49 AM

nixland
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p.2 #8 · p.2 #8 · variable ND, what is this?

Hi All, I use Hoya Variable Density 3-400.
From my testing using 85/1.2 lens, shooting the white sky, it could reach 9 1/3 stop at maximum position (at the ring it set at 'MIN' mark) and there's no X/cross mark at max position. But I haven't tried it at stopped down aperture.
I bought it for using my f/1.2 lens at mid day, especially to lower the speed to sync speed (1/100 - 1/200).

At minumum position it eats about 1 2/3 stop.

Below is the example of my photo taken with that variable ND filter with lens at f/1.2 at mid day. The exposure on the grass metered at f/13 as I recall (using light meter, ISO 100). The sun light came from the front. I use GE 1000ws as the main light & reflective white umbrella. I don't remember at what power setting, could be 600ws or 1000ws.

Jun 18, 2013 at 01:26 AM

JakeB17
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p.2 #9 · p.2 #9 · variable ND, what is this?

I've got the hoya vari-ND as well. It handles long lenses fine, but 50mm and wider you start to see the X pattern. At 50mm it's near 8 stops, at 24mm it's closer to 5 stops. It seems about equal with other variable NDs in that regard.

Thankfully it doesn't seem to effect sharpness at all though.

Jun 19, 2013 at 04:21 AM

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