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Most of the easily accessible spots in RMNP tend to be better sunrise areas than sunset, because they tend to be on the east side - i.e., most of the stops along Bear Lake Road. Dream Lake (a great sunrise spot) is one of the quintessential views in RMNP and is a relatively easy, short hike (~45 mins from the trailhead). If you want to photograph sunset in RMNP, that usually means heading up Trail Ridge Road to get to higher elevations. There's a section of Trail Ridge Road before Many Parks Curve that offers great views of the mountain peaks in RMNP, notably Longs Peak, but you can find good sunset shots almost anywhere along Trail Ridge Road, especially near the top around Rock Cut.
You should definitely drive all the way up over both Trail Ridge Road in RMNP, and Independence Pass near Aspen. Those two roads have the distinction of being something like the highest-elevation paved roads in the country.
There's a hiking trail between Aspen & Crested Butte (which I haven't done yet) that starts near the Maroon Bells btw. Would recommend going at least part-way on it if you have time, as July is wildflower season in that area, which you shouldn't miss.
Estes Park note: if you like to visit photographer galleries, stop by Erik Stensland's gallery in town. He's the only pro photographer I know of who's extensively photographed RMNP and he has lots of nice images.
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