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If I shot an identical scene under identical lighting of course I'd get the same results. But not every shot will be under the exact same conditions; that's why I said "it depends on aperture and ISO setting."
Are you deliberately being obtuse?
No. You just didn't communicate what you were trying to say correctly. Re-reading the thread had you first said "maximum range would be greater on a day that wasn't sunny, or there was no direct sun on the subject or background" . I would have understood what you meant there and agreed. I didn't read your follow-up carefully [my bad] but it too could have stated more clearly also.
Your first statement about aperture and ISO as stated, without mention of a different ambient level while correct for regular flash, is not for HSS the mode under discussion at any ambient level. Since it appeared to me you were referring to the cause and effect with regular flash I explained (for others) how HHS is seen as a continuous source (something many don't realize) and you statement, taken at face value, was not true.
It is true that on a overcast day the max range would be greater than 7ft. because the flash needs less power to match the ambient but you said nothing at first about there about the light level changing. It's also true that at that greater max. distance on an overcast day changing ISO or aperture (in opposite directions to keep the overcast ambient constant) would have no effect on that new. max distance. The goal being the same: recording the scene with a full range of detail.
I also mentioned that in situations where I don't need to battle the sun directly I shoot in M mode at 1/250th so the flash does not automatically shift into HSS if camera is in Av some bright spot in the scene pushes shutter over the sync limit shifting the flash into HSS.
In conditions other than when direct sun is hitting the subject and background AND when one wants to keep those areas under clipping the ambient light is usually weak enough to put the shutter at x-sync (e.g. 1/250th) ISO at 100, and get a wide enough aperture to isolate a foreground subject with regular flash. That's preferable in any situation because there is more power available in regular mode. More power isn't necessarily always needed for greater shooting distance. For portraits where the flashes are relatively close it allows the use of modifiers which typically cut light on the subject by 1-2 stops.
I can't and don't try to cover every situation, just explain how the gear I own works illustrated by examples of how I use it. For example some photographers will gang 4-6-8 flashes in HHS in a single SB to overcome the power drop problem and get more range for shallow DOF backlit subject in direct sun like a snow boarder or motocross rider 30 ft away. I don't do that so I didn't mention that possibility either because in those situations I just put the camera on 1/250th so flash stays in regular mode for more range and select a background that will not be distracting at the f/11 aperture needed for correct exposure.
Edited on Feb 05, 2013 at 10:48 PM · View previous versions