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Archive 2013 · Best way to choose the best copy?

  
 
gfiksel
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p.2 #1 · Best way to choose the best copy?


I've never seen a store owner that would let you unpack a bunch of neatly packed brand new lenses so you can cherry pick one and leave behind the rest for him to pack back. That's insane!


Jan 12, 2013 at 08:44 AM
chez
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p.2 #2 · Best way to choose the best copy?


Lars Johnsson wrote:
Do you really test drive ten different cars of the same model to pick the best copy Good luck. You should do that with memory cards, cameras and printers also..........


Nope...because those other items are not prone to dishing up lemons like lens are. If there were no lemons out there, the need to test a lens would be gone...but manufactures do generate these lemons so testing is needed.

Lars, if you don't test and MA your gear...great for you. Others that spend time wanting to get the best out of their gear do test and MA or fine tune their gear.

And yes, I did test two different identical cars before deciding on the one I wanted...and yes there was a difference in the drive between the two.



Jan 12, 2013 at 09:40 AM
RobertLynn
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p.2 #3 · Best way to choose the best copy?


I just buy the lens, shoot it and if it looks like it has a problem I either return it during the return period, or send it to the manufacturer to get fixed.

I sent my 70-200 2.8IS I into the manufacturer to be fixed during the return period.

I sent the 24 1.4 back to the store, twice, because I wasn't satisfied.

My 24-70, 16-35i, and ii, 70-200 2.8IS II (the IS did fail on this lens during warranty and canon fixed it free) 50 2.5, 35 f/2, 85 1.8 (two of these, sold and rebought) 135, 300 f/4, 24-105, 17-85, 50 1.8 and I don't know if I owned anything else, have all been fine.



Jan 12, 2013 at 09:44 AM
RobertLynn
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p.2 #4 · Best way to choose the best copy?


This isn't to say I haven't had them into Canon for service during use, but out of the box, they were all good.


Jan 12, 2013 at 09:44 AM
Lars Johnsson
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p.2 #5 · Best way to choose the best copy?


chez wrote:
Nope...because those other items are not prone to dishing up lemons like lens are. If there were no lemons out there, the need to test a lens would be gone...but manufactures do generate these lemons so testing is needed.

Lars, if you don't test and MA your gear...great for you. Others that spend time wanting to get the best out of their gear do test and MA or fine tune their gear.

And yes, I did test two different identical cars before deciding on the one I wanted...and yes there was a difference in the drive between the two.


If you get a lemon or lens does doesn't work good, you can of course return it and get a new. And other items are prone to dishing up lemons just like lenses.
Of course I MA my lenses. What have that to do with testing ten lenses in the shop............Normal people don't MA their lenses in the shop. They do it at home



Jan 12, 2013 at 11:49 AM
gdanmitchell
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p.2 #6 · Best way to choose the best copy?


By the way, in many cases in which we think we perceive a difference between two things, one or more of the following might be in play:

- The mind works in curious ways sometimes. In cases where two things are literally identical, some people will come to prefer one over the other and perceive that there are differences that actually don't exist. There is a type of comparison test that I have heard referred to as an "ABX" test. A subject is asked to express a preference between the "A" sample and the "B" sample, which are different. The subject is also asked to determine whether a third "X" sample is the same as "A" or "B". (And, indeed, "X" is one of the other two.) In one case I read about some years ago, a number of smart and knowledgable test subjects (and others) said that they could identify clear differences between A and B, but their ability to tell whether X was A or B was no better than if they had guessed. (To put in bluntly in this case, which involved an assessment of audio equipment quality, the experts who claimed that they could hear clear and quantifiable differences between A and B were basically fooling themselves. ;-)

- In other cases when a difference can arguably or objectively be seen (e.g. A and B are not identical), in cases where neither of the two different samples can objectively be said to be better (e.g. - they are merely "different"), those who are asked to compare both samples more often than not attempt to go beyond "they are different" and decide that one or the other is "better." But if you ask a group of people who say that one is better than the other to also tell you which is better, there will be no consistency in the choice. In some cases in which two things are different, both are good.

(To be clear, I am not at all suggesting that people can never reliably determine differences between things. That would be an absurd argument.)

Specific to cameras and lenses, there are a whole range of variables that mess with our ability to be objective about these things. (Though you can certainly argue that if you feel that one thing is better than the other you should be free to pick the one that feels better.) In many cases a perfectly fine lens might not focus as well as a less optimal lens if the adjustment of the camera body is off in a direction that favors out-of-adjustment AF. Or a lens that is objectively capable of slightly (though probably immaterially) better resolution in the center of the frame might test slightly worse in AF if it needs MA. Or a lens that is great in the center at f/4 might not be as good in the corner at f/11 as another one. And on and on and on.

And on top of that, the differences that we may obsess over when doing micro-comparisons of side-by-side or alternating 100% crops of clinical test images often turn out to be utterly invisible against the background noise* of real shooting. I suppose that one could argue that it is important to have "the best," but a) maybe it isn't all that important when the second, third... 25th... etc best works the same, and b) when all of the factors mentioned above are part of the determination of what is "best."

(*not the literal noise of sensors, etc, but the environmental noise of using a camera in the real world where things are never perfect.)

In the end, it seems to me that testing individual copies of new gear that is the product of industrial manufacturing is usually not worth the time, though I can't deny that doing so might catch some of the very rare manufacturing defects a bit sooner... but that is what warranties are for.

YMMV.

Dan



Jan 12, 2013 at 11:54 AM
kewlcanon
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p.2 #7 · Best way to choose the best copy?


If you buy the lens new and you think it needs to be tuned, call Canon right away and ask for prepaid shipping label. Unlike the other camera manufacturer *cough cough* Canon CS is pretty darn nice.


Jan 12, 2013 at 12:03 PM
Lars Johnsson
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p.2 #8 · Best way to choose the best copy?


kewlcanon wrote:
If you buy the lens new and you think it needs to be tuned, call Canon right away and ask for prepaid shipping label. Unlike the other camera manufacturer *cough cough* Canon CS is pretty darn nice.


Yes if something is wrong with the lens, then Canon will fix it for free without any hassle



Jan 12, 2013 at 12:07 PM
chez
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p.2 #9 · Best way to choose the best copy?


gdanmitchell wrote:
By the way, in many cases in which we think we perceive a difference between two things, one or more of the following might be in play:

- The mind works in curious ways sometimes. In cases where two things are literally identical, some people will come to prefer one over the other and perceive that there are differences that actually don't exist. There is a type of comparison test that I have heard referred to as an "ABX" test. A subject is asked to express a preference between the "A" sample and the "B" sample, which are different. The subject
...Show more

Dan, it is not the manufacturing defects that I look for. These are very obvious under normal use. It is the tolerances or variances the "non defective" lenses exhibit that I am trying to reduce or steer to the higher end. Why do you think advanced lens testing facilities test multiple copies and come out with varying results, yet each lens is NOT defective.

If I am going to be shooting using the best techniques I know to produce large fine detailed photos, you bet I want the highest quality lens I can get rather than the one at the bottom of the barrel. If this means testing my lens to determine if my copy is top notch, I'll do that as it really does not take much effort and the possible rewards can be quite noticeable in large prints.

I spend thousands of dollars on a photo trip, practice the best photography techniques, best post processing I know...I am not going to circumvent all this by not knowing my lens is the best it could be. Sort of defeats care in other areas of the photography process if you don't care or understand the quality and limitations of your gear.

Sure, you can just go out and shoot with your gear and produce god results...but are you producing the best results you can..and how do you know without testing your gear? Maybe I am too anal about this, but I like to know the weakest links in my process so I know where I can improve. Sometimes the weakest link is me and I have to improve my process being my skills with taking the photo or my post processing skills and sometimes the weakness is the gear and knowing this allows you to know what to improve if you want to improve your photos.



Jan 12, 2013 at 12:25 PM
Sven Jeppesen
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p.2 #10 · Best way to choose the best copy?


chez wrote:
Dan, it is not the manufacturing defects that I look for. These are very obvious under normal use. It is the tolerances or variances the "non defective" lenses exhibit that I am trying to reduce or steer to the higher end. Why do you think advanced lens testing facilities test multiple copies and come out with varying results, yet each lens is NOT defective.

If I am going to be shooting using the best techniques I know to produce large fine detailed photos, you bet I want the highest quality lens I can get rather than the one at the bottom
...Show more

There is nothing wrong in testing your lenses to get the best result. But you can't do all those serious testings in the shop on 10 or 20 different copies of the lens. That's what all this was about from the start



Jan 12, 2013 at 12:34 PM
RCicala
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p.2 #11 · Best way to choose the best copy?


Well, I have this opportunity every time I get a lens I buy. I have a few dozen to a few hundred copies to choose from of that lens. I also have a few very exclusive pro customers who ask me to do just this for them (it's one of those 'if you have to ask what I charge for this service you can't afford it' scenarios, but they don't care).

So here's what I've found:

1) Eliminating the bad copies (there are a few, although not nearly as many as people say) is pretty easy if you make any comparison at all.
2) Second, I need the camera you're going to shoot with, because the best lens on camera A is not the best copy on camera B (pertinent point here -- if you've carefully selected your lens, don't change cameras). And I'm assuming best MFA is always made, it's not just about that at all.
3) I need to know the shooting distance because the best copy at infinity is not going to be the best copy at 12 feet.
4) If a zoom, I also need to know the most common shooting range because the best copy at the long end won't be the best copy at the short end or in the middle. And the best copy averaged at all ranges won't be the best at any single range.

Can they then tell the difference? Well, yeah, but we're talking tripod only, mirror lock up, careful live-view focus guys selling very large prints. If you add in the variation of autofocus, hand holding,make just 11 X 16 prints etc. I'm not certain, although maybe.

For myself, after several years of professional pixel peeping, I grab a lens, MA adjust it to the camera I'll be using, take 2 or 3 shots at various distances and if it looks OK, I keep it. If it's a wide-angle lens I'll do a bit of side-to-side comparison because that is the one variation that I see show up in my prints sometimes.



Jan 12, 2013 at 01:37 PM
retrofocus
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p.2 #12 · Best way to choose the best copy?


gdanmitchell wrote:
I would never go through a pile of new lenses looking for a "best" or "good" copy. There are a bunch of reasons for that, but I won't detail all of them.

Frankly, with a new lens I would just pick one and buy it and get on with shooting. If there is a problem, use the warranty to get it fixed.

Dan


+1: Exactly.



Jan 12, 2013 at 02:00 PM
chez
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p.2 #13 · Best way to choose the best copy?


Sven Jeppesen wrote:
There is nothing wrong in testing your lenses to get the best result. But you can't do all those serious testings in the shop on 10 or 20 different copies of the lens. That's what all this was about from the start


I usually rent a lens before buying and fully test the rented lens. Then if I decide to purchase a lens, I'll test the purchased lens against the rented lens. At least I have some benchmark to judge the quality of the just bought lens.

As far as what this thread was all about...not testing 10 or 20 lens in the shop, but the best method to test a bunch of lens given you don't have much time. Like usual in these threads...they get off topic pretty quickly and people need to start preaching their views of the rights or wrongs rather than give the OP the information of what he is asking.



Jan 12, 2013 at 02:38 PM
gdanmitchell
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p.2 #14 · Best way to choose the best copy?


RCicala wrote:
Can they then tell the difference? Well, yeah, but we're talking tripod only, mirror lock up, careful live-view focus guys selling very large prints. If you add in the variation of autofocus, hand holding,make just 11 X 16 prints etc. I'm not certain, although maybe.

For myself, after several years of professional pixel peeping, I grab a lens, MA adjust it to the camera I'll be using, take 2 or 3 shots at various distances and if it looks OK, I keep it. If it's a wide-angle lens I'll do a bit of side-to-side comparison because that is the one
...Show more

+1 - Sounds similar to what I described earlier. :-)

Dan



Jan 12, 2013 at 03:20 PM
Monito
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p.2 #15 · Best way to choose the best copy?


RCicala wrote:
2) Second, I need the camera you're going to shoot with, because the best lens on camera A is not the best copy on camera B (pertinent point here -- if you've carefully selected your lens, don't change cameras). And I'm assuming best MFA is always made, it's not just about that at all.


True.

People who fuss too much over unicorn-like "best copies" can never upgrade their camera without changing their entire lens "collection".




Jan 12, 2013 at 04:28 PM
Wahoowa
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p.2 #16 · Best way to choose the best copy?


Monito wrote:
True.

People who fuss too much over unicorn-like "best copies" can never upgrade their camera without changing their entire lens "collection".



But that's why AFMA comes into play.



Jan 12, 2013 at 04:32 PM
Monito
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p.2 #17 · Best way to choose the best copy?


RCicala wrote:
2) Second, I need the camera you're going to shoot with, because the best lens on camera A is not the best copy on camera B (pertinent point here -- if you've carefully selected your lens, don't change cameras). And I'm assuming best MFA is always made, it's not just about that at all.

Monito wrote:
True.

People who fuss too much over unicorn-like "best copies" can never upgrade their camera without changing their entire lens "collection".

Wahoowa wrote:
But that's why AFMA comes into play.


Read what Roger wrote, again. He wrote "assuming best MFA is always made".

The point is that mounts are not always in the same plane. They can have side to side variation and top to bottom variation. They can be slight loose. The lens and camera mounts can be at odds or play well together. One lens that is off on one side (due to mount or decentering) may work nicely on one camera if the camera mount is off on the other side, but be horrible on another camera which has a neutral mount or a mount off on the same side.

But to take up your point, AFMA (Auto Focus Micro Adjustment) makes many of the distinctions between good copies moot. With regard to focus, good enough is best enough. Too much fussing is a waste of time.



Jan 12, 2013 at 04:44 PM
Monito
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p.2 #18 · Best way to choose the best copy?


"The perfect is the enemy of the good."

This comes into play in the blindness of many people who fuss over "best" sharpness. They select their lenses on that basis, after testing or having them tested for that parameter.

They become blind to the other characteristics of lenses: consistency of aperture stopdown, accuracy of aperture settings, variations in bokeh, variations in coma, variations in flare, variations in parfocal behavior, speed of AF, consistency of AF, .... and so on.

Note when you read discussion of "good copies" how 99% of the people searching for good copies and exaggerating sample variation are discussing sharpness exclusively.



Jan 12, 2013 at 04:51 PM
Gunzorro
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p.2 #19 · Best way to choose the best copy?


Whenever I buy a lens or camera body, new or used, it is an individual item, not one of a group of candidates. I immediately start testing on "live subjects" -- mostly known subjects in my environment at distances from close-up to infinity -- at home or close-by outdoor locations. I want to determine in normal shooting if the lens has any problems (more common with used gear), and whether I want to keep the lens, return it, or fix it. I've gotten pretty good at spending a half hour like this, and then examining the results enlarged at 100% on the computer screen to make a decision. I like to shoot the lens on multiple bodies, so testing often goes over a couple days until I decide conclusively.


Jan 12, 2013 at 05:06 PM
Tony B
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p.2 #20 · Best way to choose the best copy?


Buy it, use it, keep it or take it back. I never buy anything that has been previously opened unless I obtain a substantial discount. If it is open why was it not purchased? Was it tested & found to be defective?




Jan 12, 2013 at 05:47 PM
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