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| p.2 #6 · 5d MarkIII worth the extra $1200. |
claymiller wrote: Great questions. I am an amateur. I shoot birds, sailing, family, some architecture and nature shots. We are starting to do some traveling and I love shooting different stuff. I have gotten to the point with my 7D that I can come up with some pretty good shots but it has taken a lot of experimenting. I have not considered the 60D. I had a 40D and traded for the 7D. I like to use the outer focusing areas to frame shots and create blur in other areas of the frame.The 1D series seems really large and awkward but could probably get used to it. A good used 1D Mark IV is within reach financially. The 1D X is not. I am thinking that I will go for the 5D MarkIII and keep the 7D for the extra reach. 50 years from now I will be dead and my photos will be part of my legacy. No one will care how much I spent (other than my kids that will get less!). Cheers!
Keep the 7D for birds and nature, for the extra reach.
For the rest, you don't need the extra goodness of the 5D3. You could do very nicely with a 5D2 for sailing, architecture, and nature (landscape & macro), but even that is not necessary. The 6D (not 60D) would be a good camera for you to consider, since it is full-frame, but not fancy.
In your situation, I'd buy a greater range of focal lengths & macro for coverage / capability and a good flash with an off-camera cord for family photos.
If you really like architecture, consider spending the money on a 24 mm TSE Mark II, or 17mm TSE. They are very sharp and capable. But you can also do a lot with software correction of perspective and/or stitching.
I went the route of getting a really good tripod and really good big ballhead, which you want anyway, and a really good multi-row panorama rig, and recently a Tokina 16-28 f/2.8 zoom (for full-frame).
So, in your situation, I'd skip the $3500 on full-frame and get the $1200 tripod + ballhead, and a $1000 Canon 10-22mm zoom (sharp, great lens, perfect for crop factor, I have one). That would leave about $1300 for things like flash and pano rigs. Do you have Photoshop CS 6 / Lightroom? You can spend on that. If you stretch the $1300 you could get a 6D full-frame, in which case substitute the Tokina 16-28 for the 10-22. The Tokina has less distortion than the 16-35 Mark II, the Nikon 14-24, and the Zeiss 21, and it is almost as sharp corner to corner as they are, at less than half the price of any of the three. Great for architecture.