p.1 #1 · FoCal MA for Fast Lenses (35L specifically)
Hi -
I picked up a copy of 35L from B&S, got it, and it needs MA on my 1D3 & 5D2. It's not very far off, just needs fine tuned for my picky pixel peeping pleasure. I MA'd it at f/1.4 w/ FoCal and got a really high MA number - and the images looked worse. Then I MA'd it at f/2, got totally different results (much closer to zero), and it looks good. Still might need tuned for landscape shots at infinity, but it's good for close in shooting.
Does anyone know why MA'ing it stopped down slightly would give better results, and if anyone has useful info/experience about MA'ing faster lenses with FoCal, I'd appreciate hearing it. I am WAG'ing it's an issue with FoCal maybe not being able to 'see' contrast/sharpness as well at f/1.4?
p.1 #3 · FoCal MA for Fast Lenses (35L specifically)
Don't AFMA it at f/2. the depth of field increases so it will not do a accurate job. At f/2, focus errors won't show as much due to the depth of field.
Focal Pro saves the calibration images so you can verify that they are sharper.
It really sounnds like you might need to change some of your foCal settings, be sure to turn the target validation on so that it detects distance and proper orientation to the target.
Check at 2 or more distances from the target, I use 25X and 50X.
p.1 #4 · FoCal MA for Fast Lenses (35L specifically)
scalesusa wrote:
Don't AFMA it at f/2. the depth of field increases so it will not do a accurate job. At f/2, focus errors won't show as much due to the depth of field.
Focal Pro saves the calibration images so you can verify that they are sharper.
It really sounnds like you might need to change some of your foCal settings, be sure to turn the target validation on so that it detects distance and proper orientation to the target.
Check at 2 or more distances from the target, I use 25X and 50X.
Thanks - I'll set it up and see what happens this afternoon. I do go through the target validation.
I am wondering if my lighting isn't quite right. I am using a single big bright halogen worklight (I usually use speedlights for what little studio work I do). I think EV ends up around 9, which may not be enough?
p.1 #5 · FoCal MA for Fast Lenses (35L specifically)
Hmmm, still getting really funky data at f/1.4. Of note, this is on a 1D3, which I have read some 1D3 can be flaky with 35L (though it looks fine out shooting normally).
What defocus method should I be using? Currently I'm using max defocus FAR.
p.1 #6 · FoCal MA for Fast Lenses (35L specifically)
TOTALLY different results using defocus method set to NEAR. It's at about +4 set to NEAR, and if I use FAR it's off the chart (+21 ).
Maybe I have some old bits laying around in my FoCal install that are mucking up the works??
Really confusing!
Oct 13, 2012 at 01:37 PM
Lan11 Offline [X]
p.1 #7 · FoCal MA for Fast Lenses (35L specifically)
Why FoCal or any other tool if the old good DPP is sufficient for µAdjustment tetsting in the
Camera remote shooting panel? Try it and save time and money.
p.1 #8 · FoCal MA for Fast Lenses (35L specifically)
Lan11 wrote:
Why FoCal or any other tool if the old good DPP is sufficient for µAdjustment tetsting in the
Camera remote shooting panel? Try it and save time and money.
p.1 #9 · FoCal MA for Fast Lenses (35L specifically)
mco_970 wrote:
I am wondering if my lighting isn't quite right. I am using a single big bright halogen worklight (I usually use speedlights for what little studio work I do). I think EV ends up around 9, which may not be enough?
According to the manual, over 8 EV is best, so 9 EV would be sufficient I think. I did find more reliable results at even higher EVs in the 10 - 12 range (daylight in my case).
p.1 #10 · FoCal MA for Fast Lenses (35L specifically)
mco_970 wrote:
Hmmm, still getting really funky data at f/1.4. Of note, this is on a 1D3, which I have read some 1D3 can be flaky with 35L (though it looks fine out shooting normally).
What defocus method should I be using? Currently I'm using max defocus FAR.
For a couple of my lens I found the MA more reliable when stopped down a bit from wide open, like the 85/1.8 (I think I MA'ed it at f/2), so it may be worth a shot. Not sure why, but perhaps having better center sharpness (while still having shallow DOF) makes the MA more reliable?
p.1 #11 · FoCal MA for Fast Lenses (35L specifically)
Daylight is of course best for sharp contrast. Camera focal plane and target alignment seem to be particularly critical for the 35L and 85L. Try to MA at your most commonly used distance to subject, rather than the calculated, recommended distance.
p.1 #12 · FoCal MA for Fast Lenses (35L specifically)
mco_970 wrote:
Hmmm, still getting really funky data at f/1.4. Of note, this is on a 1D3, which I have read some 1D3 can be flaky with 35L (though it looks fine out shooting normally).
What defocus method should I be using? Currently I'm using max defocus FAR.
I think max defocus far became the default starting with FoCal 1.5 or 1.6, so that should be fine.
What does the chart look like? Perhaps your 35L is so uniformly sharp across the MA range that the software can't find a "peak" sharpness?
Oct 14, 2012 at 04:00 AM
Lars Johnsson Offline • • • • • • • Upload & Sell: Off
p.1 #13 · FoCal MA for Fast Lenses (35L specifically)
For me it made a big difference when having very good light. Like EV 10 or better. When I had that good light I did MA all my fast lenses like 24/1,4--50/1,2--85/1,2 and similar from 3-4 meters distance.
When I did it indoors it also made some difference from what angle the light came from (windows)
p.1 #15 · FoCal MA for Fast Lenses (35L specifically)
Thanks - I'll see what I can do for extra lighting and try to get to at least 10 EV.
I also wonder if my paper the target is printed on could be an issue - it's Ilford smooth pearl - closest I have on hand to matte (other than some big sheets of fine art matte). Smooth pearl doesn't seem reflective, but maybe the camera sees it differently? I have some Canon Pro Platinum?
p.1 #16 · FoCal MA for Fast Lenses (35L specifically)
mco_970 wrote:
I also wonder if my paper the target is printed on could be an issue - it's Ilford smooth pearl - closest I have on hand to matte (other than some big sheets of fine art matte). Smooth pearl doesn't seem reflective, but maybe the camera sees it differently? I have some Canon Pro Platinum?
I printed the .PNG files at Costco (since I don't have a photo printer), using the "lustre" (not "glossy") option, and printing at 8x10 (cropping it accordingly) which seemed to worked fine.
The main hiccup I had was with MA'ing the 100L macro at close to MFD. The target image supplied with FoCal 1.4 just didn't work, but I had better luck with the target image in version 1.6. The sharpness wasn't great (even at more than 10 EV), but good enough for the software (and me) to see a "peak" sharpness (at +6 on the 5D2).
p.1 #17 · FoCal MA for Fast Lenses (35L specifically)
Ok, I re-ran it while I had 13 EV light in my greenhouse. Installed FoCal on a fresh machine. I was able to use FAR defocus, f/1.4 and MA results came back as +2 with the tripod in close (1.5 meters) and +1 with the tripod at about 3 meters or so.
The focus consistency check also looked good.
Yay!! Now to do some real world shooting and see how things look.
).
