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| p.1 #6 · Thinking about adding a q-flash for canon |
I disagree that HSS is pretty useless. It's very effective at close distances. And hyper sync (what you are referring to) is the act of the trigger device attempting to guess at when the shutter curtain is going to be open and firing early in order to achieve higher sync shutter speed values. Unfortunately, my experience is that this doesn't work with the canon 5d MK II.
It depends on what you want to do with HSS.
HSS is pretty useless in conjunction with its output loss - especially when combined with high brightness levels and the requirement for substantial fill. On a bright day, you'll be hard pushed to get a balanced exposure at 4 feet using HSS and unmodified 50mm zoom.
Although not labelled with 'HSS' the T5d-R and X5d-R both perform extremely well at full output beyond regular x-sync and lose no output in the process.
Set your light ratio at full power for 1/250s f16 and the same ratio will be present with 1/8000s f2.8. On a Nikon you just need to set your camera to FP mode and use any of the Quantum transmitters.. Trio, Pilot, CoPilot, FW9T or FW10W with (or without) a D adapter providing you have an FP mode flash in your hotshoe. With an FP mode flash in your hotshoe you can augment the remote Quantum (FP/HSS) sync with on axis HSS_FP mode - adjustable - fill. The Trio is obviously better for this as it has a built in radio to make life easier, but it also works (with Nikon) with a Speedlight in the hotshoe and separate transmitter connected to a PC socket.
The X5d-R at 400WS performs the best without any noticeable banding or shutter clipping, and the most convenient setup I find, on Nikon, is a CoPilot in the hotshoe and the X5d-R as a remote. The Co-Pilot will control the remote X5d-R in TTL or switch it to Manual and operate at different output levels. Switching to Full output allows syncing at all shutterspeeds.
You'll have to try the same with Canon.