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Archive 2012 · The OM-D E-M5 Configuration Thread
  
 
CalW
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p.2 #1 · The OM-D E-M5 Configuration Thread


There is an interesting active thread here:

http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/1154794

It is discussing AF tracking and settings that appear to improve the camera's ability to lock and hold focus on a moving target. With thanks and/or apologies to those who posted the information, I include a summary here (and I will update it as necessary.)

4 frames per second
C-AF (mixed reports on C-AF-TR)
Center Point Focus Target
JPEG or JPEG+Raw (even if you never otherwise use JPEG!)
VIVID color mode with S +2, C +2 and RGB +2.

(If you never use VIVID for any other purpose, just set it up and leave it with these settings.)

The jury is out as to whether using a larger or smaller JPEG is better, ditto with the focus target size.

The theory is that the camera is using data from the JPEG preview to do its tracking calculations, and the above settings create the highest contrast JPEG.

There is now ample evidence that this is very effective in improving AF tracking performance.

Your challenge is now "merely" to keep the focus target on your moving subject




Edited on Oct 08, 2012 at 12:19 AM · View previous versions



Oct 05, 2012 at 06:57 PM
CalW
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p.2 #2 · The OM-D E-M5 Configuration Thread


Have you tried the "Anti-shock" time delay feature? This is intended for use on-tripod to allow a "settling time" between the shutter button press and the shutter activation. The advantage of using this option rather than the simple 2 or 12 second timer is that Anti-shock works in both single-shot and continuous mode, as well as with bracketing! To activate Anti-shock, see Custom menu E, manual page 89.

EDIT Another significant difference between the two-second timer and anti-shock is when the delay is implemented. The two-second delay is before the first shutter closes, and the anti-shock delay is after the first shutter closes but before the first shutter opens. END EDIT

The cool thing about how this option is implemented is that if you wish you can leave it set in the menu and it is added to the shooting mode selections in combination with each of the standard options, for fast selection (by default, the down arrow button.)

And - REALLY cool if you are interested in time-lapse photography: Set anti-shock to 30 seconds and select continuous mode with anti-shock, set up the camera on a tripod, attach a wired remote switch with the shutter lock (long exposure) feature, and lock the shutter. Your camera will now happily take a photograph every 30 seconds until either the card is full or the battery dies (Unfortunately, 30 seconds is currently the longest interval allowed by firmware version 1.5.)

Edited on Jan 11, 2013 at 08:21 PM · View previous versions



Oct 07, 2012 at 11:39 AM
jstephens62
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p.2 #3 · The OM-D E-M5 Configuration Thread


I have read that it is possible to adjust how much magnification you get with the "magnify" option when focusing manually. I have seen the range from 5x to 14x. I can see how to turn "magnify" on and off, but not how to choose the amount. Any help is appreciated.


Oct 22, 2012 at 08:37 PM
CalW
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p.2 #4 · The OM-D E-M5 Configuration Thread


Jack, go back to my fourth append when I started this thread: "About the Magnify option in more detail: Tap once, then press INFO. Turn the Sub Dial to size the focus target (it can be much smaller than the normal size) ..." It is the size of the focus target that establishes the degree of magnification - less area displayed in the same size viewfinder equates to a higher effective magnification.


Oct 22, 2012 at 10:03 PM
jstephens62
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p.2 #5 · The OM-D E-M5 Configuration Thread


Got it, I missed that relationship in reading the note. Thanks.


Oct 23, 2012 at 04:42 AM
jstephens62
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p.2 #6 · The OM-D E-M5 Configuration Thread


I have had a conversation with CalW outside of the forum about how to set up the OM-D for HDR shots, and he thought it might be of value to others. Hopefully this will be clear, sometimes delving into camera menus can be confusing.

HDR is an ideal place to use the Myset custom function settings, since there are several things you want to change simultaneously. First start with basic camera settings for still photography, I prefer:

Aperture priority
Auto ISO
Auto White Balance
Raw
Digitial ESP metering
Face recognition - Off
Adobe color space

Most of these have other options you may prefer that would not affect the eventual image. Please note however as pointed out on Gary Ayton's site (http://www.ayton.id.au/wiki/doku.php?id=photo:olympusem5_settings) that if you shoot in Manual with auto ISO, the camera will not give exposure bracketing that you want with HDR, so Aperture Priority is the way to go

Once these settings are dialed in, then go to:
Menu -> Shooting Menu 2 -> Bracketing -> AE bracketing. The camera gives 11 different variations of number of images captured and the degree of exposure difference between them, I use 3f 1.0 EV

Lastly, go to:
Menu -> Shooting Menu 2 ->Sequential/Timer (the top choice, just above Image Stabilizer) and choose High

Now save these settings under:
Menu -> Shooting Menu 1 -> Reset/Myset -> Myset (number of you choice) -> Set

Now to shoot HDR, go to Menu -> Shooting Menu 1 -> Reset/Myset -> Myset # -> OK, and you are good to go. It may sound complicated, but it takes about 10 seconds to set up once the settings are saved.

I have saved Myset 1 for my default settings, so I can exit the HDR mode as easily as I entered.

I hope that is clear and of some help, please offer additions/corrections/comments.



Nov 08, 2012 at 03:34 AM
Pixel Perfect
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p.2 #7 · The OM-D E-M5 Configuration Thread


CalW wrote:
About the Magnify option in more detail: Tap once, then press INFO. Turn the Sub Dial to size the focus target (it can be much smaller than the normal size) and the arrow buttons to position the focus target in your composition. Then tap a second time to magnify. Now half-press the shutter button to image stabilize the magnified view. After achieving focus complete the press of the shutter button to take your photograph. To return to normal operation, hold the button down momentarily (eg, longer than a "tap.") This is great for Manual Focus. BUT you do not need
...Show more

Thank you for this. I had assigned magnified view to one of the buttons and I assumed I had to just press the button when I needed the feature, but it never works. I don't recall seeing your info in the admittedly shockingly written manual.



Nov 08, 2012 at 10:03 PM
you2
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p.2 #8 · The OM-D E-M5 Configuration Thread


Question: what setting to use for auto focus for family pictures ??

Background: I normally use the camera with smallest single point in the middle. I then aim 1/2 click and move camera for proper framing. This works fine for 'static' objects but is not very good for spontaneous pictures of folks who are moving about where the framing is likely to not have the subject in the center. I do have eye detect on and from the manual it sounds like I want to enlarge the middle point to be the full screen but not really sure. Unfortunately I did not leave enough gap in time for testing so suggestion/advice would help



Nov 14, 2012 at 04:41 PM
CalW
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p.2 #9 · The OM-D E-M5 Configuration Thread


The answer to the question, "what setting to use for auto focus for family pictures ??" is truly one of "Your mileage may vary!" Depending on our experience(s) and styles, I think each of us will likely come up with different answers as to what works best.

For what it may be worth, my opinion is that neither a very small or a very large auto focus point is an improvement over the default size in a busy environment. My automatic reflex when a lot is going on seems to be to aim with the center point, and if the camera hits the focus I find that often the result can be cropped a bit to avoid "centrism" in the final image. A smaller focus point can work better if you are really steady (and quick!) but too small a focus point can fix on some minor and un-wanted detail. Too large a focus point creates a higher probability of fixing on something quite different from what you intend. In general the default size selected by the camera designer seems like a reasonable compromise for me.

But the OM-D E-M5 gives you several other options that you should try to see if they can fit your style:

(1) Put the camera into touch screen shooting mode (manual page 27.) I use this with the screen tilted up so that I can keep the camera close to my body for stability, looking down at the screen and ready with a finger to tap the desired point for a quick focus-and-shoot. It still seems to me to be a very strange and unlikely way to use a camera, but I must admit that it can work surprisingly well.

(2) Use auto-focus multi-point group target (manual page 44.) With the group of nine points in the center you have nine chances of hitting what you intend. Or perhaps you have eight chances of hitting what you do not intend! It is worth a try, but I kinda vote against leaving so much to chance.

(3) Use face priority with or without eye priority (manual page 46.) This can quite often work like magic, but occasionally it can also determine that the damndest things are faces! It appears to me that using eye priority reduces the hit rate considerably, and that the face has to fill a good bit of the frame for it to hit an eye reliably. As far as I can tell the selection of focus point or focus points or of focus point size has no effect on face detection - "face" if found, takes priority over all else. So I keep the standard center focus point set when in face priority mode, so I have a chance of getting what I intend if the camera doesn't find the face by itself.

And of course the age-old reliable method with any camera - work in great light with a small aperture for maximum depth of field. Oh, we should always be so lucky! Or the next best thing (up to the point that you annoy your subjects so much that they toss you out) - bring your own light using on-camera bounce flash and/or remote flash(es) to both stop motion and gain depth of field.



Nov 15, 2012 at 02:39 PM
you2
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p.2 #10 · The OM-D E-M5 Configuration Thread


I think (2) is what I was asking about; I wasn't sure if the camera eye/face detection worked well. Oh well thanks. I wish I had a copy of the full manual.


Nov 16, 2012 at 01:40 PM
 

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CalW
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p.2 #11 · The OM-D E-M5 Configuration Thread


I'm still seeing folks complaining about "focus target is too large." But it doesn't have to be! Go back to the first appends in this thread. With the camera set up as I suggest, a quick tap of that lil' red button on top - nothing more, no selections, no menus - voila, the focus target is nice and small. I use it most of the time. Yes, it would be nice to be able to make it permanent, but it really ain't no biggie to just tap that button...

(Edit) Yeah, OK, OK... I agree that it would be nicer if the target could be even smaller!

Edited on Dec 18, 2012 at 03:01 PM · View previous versions



Nov 28, 2012 at 06:52 PM
CalW
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p.2 #12 · The OM-D E-M5 Configuration Thread


I was about submit a post to this thread but realized that a more general observation should be made first. Several OM-D E-M5 owners have previously commented here on FM and elsewhere that possibly not all of the cameras work exactly the same way in some functions. It appears that Olympus has now acknowledged this in conjunction with delays in the release of the next BIOS. It is bad news that the suspected problem is real, but good news that Olympus may be working on it. Please, this thread is not intended for general discussion of features we would like to see in some future BIOS. But perhaps it would be worthwhile to share information here about known inconsistencies and/or apparent “bugs” in the current BIOS, and workarounds for them, since this BIOS apparently will be with us for a while longer yet.

Edited on Dec 18, 2012 at 03:02 PM · View previous versions



Dec 18, 2012 at 02:40 PM
CalW
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p.2 #13 · The OM-D E-M5 Configuration Thread


A common complaint about the OM-D E-M5 BIOS version 1.5 and earlier is that “there is no exposure compensation when using Auto-ISO in Manual mode.” It took me a while to get my head around this, so I thought an explanation would help new owners. Warning – I’m going to start with the basics here, for those who need it!

First let’s look at “iAuto” mode. Here Auto-ISO is always in use, and the exposure calculation is done for us by varying aperture, shutter time and ISO according to a programmed algorithm. (We may each have our opinions of this algorithm, but that is not the subject here!) Because we have no control whatever over the exposure, this mode is probably seldom used by most FM members, but it is there if you are in a rush.

To gain some control over exposure, we go first to “P” mode. Here the exposure is also calculated for us (again let’s leave out opinions on how it is done, and whether it is done in the same way as in iAuto mode!) But now we can optionally (1) turn auto ISO on and off and/or (2) bias or “compensate” the exposure calculation up or down, using the sub (front) dial, to better suit our intentions. Remember that the algorithm is controlling all three exposure elements: aperture, shutter speed, and (optionally) ISO.

“A” mode allows us to assume control over aperture: we set aperture using the main dial and let the algorithm control shutter speed and (optionally) ISO. And the sub dial still allows us to “compensate.” The “S” mode works exactly the same way, except that the main dial controls shutter speed.

It seems reasonable to assume that if we now go to “M” mode, we should be able to set both aperture and shutter speed, and still “compensate.” But now we set aperture with the sub dial and shutter speed with the main dial – and there is no third dial to “compensate” with! Of course, that doesn’t matter, because we can simply change either shutter speed or aperture with the dials and get a new exposure.

But if we chose to also use Auto-ISO in manual mode (and remember that use of Auto-ISO in manual mode is optional, and we must enable it by setting “All” under “ISO-Auto” in custom menu E) then everything changes. Let’s call the aperture and shutter speed settings at the time Auto-ISO is turned on the “base exposure.” With Auto-ISO on, if we turn either wheel then Auto-ISO changes the ISO to maintain the base exposure! This is counter-intuitive because it is essentially the opposite of what exposure compensation does in the other three modes! To change the base exposure, you must turn off Auto-ISO, make the desired dial changes, turn Auto-ISO back on, and now the new setting is the base exposure.

Clearly, Auto-ISO is essentially useless in manual mode. If anyone has a useful work-around, PLEASE post it! Otherwise, add your voice to the outcry.

Come on, Olympus – set Auto-ISO free in manual mode!

(Thanks to FM member 1customjeweler for twisting my head and leading me to post this.)



Dec 18, 2012 at 02:42 PM
CalW
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p.2 #14 · The OM-D E-M5 Configuration Thread


Occasionally when in a hurry and threshing around desperately in the menus I have mistakenly hosed a setting, and my carefully selected settings no longer work quite right. But by the time I realize this I have no idea just what I might have done. I've even set down my two cameras side by side and gone through the menus to find the culprit.

"MySet" to the rescue! (Manual page 42.) I had kinda forgotten this option existed, but it can be a lifesaver in the above situation. When you have everything working just the way you want it, save that basic configuration as a MySet, and just recall it when the **** hits the fan, for a quick return to normal!

EDIT: Unfortunately you will have to menu-dive to swap MySets - press menu, press right arrow, press down arrow, press OK, select the desired MySet, press OK, select Yes, and press OK again, and the camera is in the new MySet.

Edited on Jun 27, 2013 at 10:36 AM · View previous versions



Jun 16, 2013 at 06:21 PM
OntheRez
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p.2 #15 · The OM-D E-M5 Configuration Thread


CalW wrote:
Occasionally when in a hurry and threshing around desperately in the menus I have mistakenly hosed a setting, and my carefully selected settings no longer work quite right. But by the time I realize this I have no idea just what I might have done. I've even set down my two cameras side by side and gone through the menus to find the culprit.

"MySet" to the rescue! (Manual page 42.) I had kinda forgotten this option existed, but it can be a lifesaver in the above situation. When you have everything working just the way you want it, save that
...Show more

Cal,

I admit to being dim witted on occasion , but I cannot get mysettings to work. If I create a setting (e.g. HDR) save it to myset1, assign it to a button, I can't get the camera out of that mode without going back and deleting the customized setting. I'm really baffled because obviously there has to be a way to invoke and cancel a special setting but rooting thru the online manual doesn't seem to have the answer. (I've order a paper copy.)

Advice appreciated.

Robert



Jun 20, 2013 at 06:00 PM
CalW
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p.2 #16 · The OM-D E-M5 Configuration Thread


Robert, you are correct that there is by default no "cancel" for MySet. But you can create one: Save your normal settings as a MySet, and then you can switch back to normal. Think of it this way - you are always in some MySet of your choice


Jun 20, 2013 at 11:20 PM
OntheRez
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p.2 #17 · The OM-D E-M5 Configuration Thread


CalW wrote:
Robert, you are correct that there is by default no "cancel" for MySet. But you can create one: Save your normal settings as a MySet, and then you can switch back to normal. Think of it this way - you are always in some MySet of your choice


Wow, that seems kinda weird so what buttons are you using to for your "normal" myset as opposed to the less used ones? I seem (by mucking around) to have Fn2, Fn1 and the video button all involved in magnifying the view and moving the focus point. Duplication I think. I have put ISO and the speed/exposure settings on the rear multi-controller. Have to play around with putting just generic M on a button.

Camera certainly has a different viewpoint on usability than I've encountered before.

Robert



Jun 21, 2013 at 07:30 PM
CalW
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p.2 #18 · The OM-D E-M5 Configuration Thread


Robert, I menu-dive when I need to swap to a different MySet (see manual page 42.) It is a quick dive, because MySet is the second item in shooting menu #1. Just press menu, press right arrow, press down arrow, press OK, select the desired MySet, press OK, select Yes, and press OK again, and the camera is in the new MySet. This sounds like a lot of button pushing, but it actually can be done very quickly.

EDIT: Unfortunately, Olympus' bright idea of holding down a button to temporarily swap MySets is one of the places where they made a mistake in the camera - IMHO this is unworkable in most situations. I would prefer that they instead made it possible to assign the MySet menu to a button, from which you select the desired MySet. Even if the present approach of assigning a MySet to a button swapped to that MySet immediately without holding down the button, there would then be workable solutions to daisy-chain and rotate between MySets.

If anyone has found a workaround to menu diving to swap MySets, please contribute it to this thread!



Jun 22, 2013 at 02:02 PM
CalW
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p.2 #19 · The OM-D E-M5 Configuration Thread


I have been guilty of complaining about some settings apparently not being save-able in a MySet. To be fair, Olympus does document what settings are intended to be save-able - the table on pages 111- 115 in the manual has a checkmark in column *1 for those settings. Before whining any more about this I should spend more time verifying specifically whether this documentation is correct. Plus, I have realized that the table indicates that the button settings can be saved in a MySet -- I am trying to get my mind around the possibilities of this, but it remains boggled...


Jun 30, 2013 at 11:23 AM
merosen
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p.2 #20 · The OM-D E-M5 Configuration Thread


Here's a spiral bound version of the manual
(that's what they advertise but i haven't bought one to be sure)

http://manualsink.com/olympus-camera-E-M5-instruction-manual-P62089.aspx



Jul 16, 2013 at 09:34 PM
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