rscheffler Offline Upload & Sell: Off
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Imagemaster wrote:
For a maximum of 8x10 you could do with just the original 1D with a flash-sync of 1/500.
Haha, I was thinking the exact same thing... but IMO the 1D is a much better RAW camera than JPEG. The default Canon color profiles for it were always a bit wonky. Also it's a Firewire tether. Mind you, the RAW file sizes from it are something like only around 4MB, so inline with full-rez Jpegs from higher rez cameras. The other neat thing about the 1D is the way the CCD sensor works, you can sync flash exposures well above 1/500 because at these speeds, the sensor itself is acting as the shutter, rather than the mechanical shutter, IIRC...
Regarding the 1DIII/IV. Look into the PocketWizard radios such as the MiniTT1 that feature HyperSync, which will allow you to push the flash sync somewhat beyond the default fastest setting.
http://www.pocketwizard.com/products/transmitter_receiver/minitt1-canon/
http://wiki.pocketwizard.com/index.php?title=Understanding_HyperSync_and_High_Speed_Sync
With the 1DIV I've pushed it to the 1/500-1/640 range, but it depends a great deal on the flash you're using and what that flash's flash duration is at whatever power setting you're using. You want to use it at settings where flash duration is longer, which is usually at full power (though monolight type lights in most cases have longer flash durations at lower power settings). I'm not really familiar with the Q flashes in this regard (and their website doesn't seem to provide this info either). Flashes with longer flash durations work better with HyperSync because the way this feature works, it's sampling only a portion of the flash output, and you want that output to be long enough and consistent enough as the shutter slit travels across the sensor. The link above to the wiki should explain it better.
Also, if you're shooting outside and you have a natural background and area around the subject that receives no light from the strobe, you can often cheat the shutter speed another 1/3 or 2/3 of a stop. This would normally result in a black line of underexposure in an image illuminated only by strobe, but because of the ambient light you wouldn't necessarily notice the missing strobe exposure in part of the image not occupied by the strobe illuminated subject...
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