Problem with Fringing - M43

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Problem with Fringing - M43

Patrick Cox
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p.1 #1 · Problem with Fringing - M43

I am working with my new OMD and am having problems with purple fringing. Granted this is a difficult subject and I am not blaming the camera, but I am wondering if there is an M43 lens out there that will do better than this with fringing. I know everyone says it is easy to fix but this one if not that easy. I really need to take this into photoshop and then try to remove the fringing on the clownfish and then mask the rest of the image. So any thoughts would be appreciated.

This image was taken with the PL 25, however I got similar results with the Panny 20 1.7 & the Panny 14-45.

Also, I shot this scene with my 5DII and 70-300 L and while the fringing was there, it was much less pronounced and easier to clean up so I am hoping there is a better lens for this in M43.

Thanks
Pat

Straight RAW conversion - no correction (100% crop)

This image is copyrighted by the owner

Corrected in Lightroom (see the color blocking from the correction in the corals. And the correction is not all that great.) (100% crop)

This image is copyrighted by the owner

Edited on Aug 09, 2012 at 06:51 PM · View previous versions

Aug 09, 2012 at 06:40 PM

FlyPenFly
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p.1 #2 · Problem with Fringing - M43

What lens, the kit lens is known to have crazy fringing at the widest end.

If you want a very fringe free lens try the PL45mm F2.8.

Aug 09, 2012 at 06:45 PM

Patrick Cox
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p.1 #3 · Problem with Fringing - M43

Sorry, just realized I didn't post lenses. See above.

Aug 09, 2012 at 06:50 PM

najibs
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p.1 #4 · Problem with Fringing - M43

Easy...if you shoot in RAW, and have LR4, there's a slider that will get rid of that in a second.

Aug 09, 2012 at 06:52 PM

Jman13
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p.1 #5 · Problem with Fringing - M43

One other thing to think about in this situation is that you're shooting through another piece of non-photographic glass. My guess is that the glass on the tank is actually a major factor (and with the smaller sensor of the e-M5, it shows up worse there).

I have not noticed the PL 25 to fringe very much at all, nor should your 70-300L fringe.

Now, the Canon FD 200/2.8? Purple Mania!

Aug 09, 2012 at 06:59 PM

Patrick Cox
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p.1 #6 · Problem with Fringing - M43

najibs wrote:
Easy...if you shoot in RAW, and have LR4, there's a slider that will get rid of that in a second.

This is what I was trying to point out. In this image, it is not as easy as you think. The second image was after the best LR slider adjustment I could make and if you look at the coral, you can see the color blocking that the fringing adjustment added. So yes, for some images, not a problem, but for others it is not as easy.

Aug 09, 2012 at 06:59 PM

Patrick Cox
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p.1 #7 · Problem with Fringing - M43

Here is a Canon 5D II and 70-300 L image for comparison. This was wide open at 300mm. Still some fringing but not nearly as bad.

This image is copyrighted by the owner

Aug 10, 2012 at 12:31 AM

FlyPenFly
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p.1 #8 · Problem with Fringing - M43

Wait, you're shooting through water and glass, that probably would cause even more CA.

All the lenses you listed show CA wide open, but the 14-45 and 25 PL pretty much do not show CA at F4 or F5.6 especially in the central area.

Aug 10, 2012 at 12:40 AM

cputeq
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p.1 #9 · Problem with Fringing - M43

having problems with purple fringing

Welcome to m43

(sorry, someone had to say it!)

Try stopping down.

If that doesn't work, you probably want to go into Photoshop for this one, as I don't really see a good option in LR (and you've tried). You might actually try getting a -Exposure brush in LR and brush over the purple, maybe add a little bit of -saturation - you might be able to balance it with the not-so-black black on the fish body.

Difficult shot for sure.

Aug 10, 2012 at 01:06 AM

FlyPenFly
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p.1 #10 · Problem with Fringing - M43

I honestly haven't noticed any more CA than I did on full frame or Nikon APS-C.. unless you're using legacy glass.

Aug 10, 2012 at 01:07 AM

Mescalamba
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p.1 #11 · Problem with Fringing - M43

OM-D EM-5 internal CA correction might not work fully. Otherwise dunno, Panny 20mm f1.7 and especially that old kit lens arent exactly top notch neither APO.

I suspect that CA correction simply doesnt work..

Aug 10, 2012 at 01:43 AM

FlyPenFly
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p.1 #12 · Problem with Fringing - M43

CA correction is only done with Panasonic bodies in Panasonic lenses. Olympus doesn't do in body CA correction.

Aug 10, 2012 at 01:45 AM

cputeq
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p.1 #13 · Problem with Fringing - M43

Yeah what Fly said - I think it's a good tradeoff for IBIS

Aug 10, 2012 at 02:29 AM

cputeq
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p.1 #14 · Problem with Fringing - M43

FlyPenFly wrote:
I honestly haven't noticed any more CA than I did on full frame or Nikon APS-C.. unless you're using legacy glass.

My PL25 exhibits it more than I'm used to, probably because i"m almost always shooting wide open. It's a bit more than one would expect from such an expensive lens (for a 50mm FOV), but considering the design requirements, I have no problem with it.

Aug 10, 2012 at 02:34 AM

FlyPenFly
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p.1 #15 · Problem with Fringing - M43

I got mine new for $550 a few weeks ago, I don't think it's that much for a F1.4 50mm equiv that's driven by a AFS/SSM style motor, who else makes one for a crop camera?

I'm just really careful how I compose at F1.4, I bump it to F2 if there's a lot of high contrast areas in the scene.

One interesting way to look at it is that the Sony Zeiss 24mm F1.8 ZA is double the cost of the Panasonic Leica 25mm F1.4.

Aug 10, 2012 at 02:54 AM

cputeq
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p.1 #16 · Problem with Fringing - M43

FlyPenFly wrote:
I got mine new for $550 a few weeks ago, I don't think it's that much for a F1.4 50mm equiv that's driven by a AFS/SSM style motor, who else makes one for a crop camera?

I'm just really careful how I compose at F1.4, I bump it to F2 if there's a lot of high contrast areas in the scene.

One interesting way to look at it is that the Sony Zeiss 24mm F1.8 ZA is double the cost of the Panasonic Leica 25mm F1.4.

Yeah it's how you look at it - I'm looking at FF world 50mm vs m43, and Nikon's 35 DX never showed this much PF (only f/1.8), nor did Sony's 35 SAM (though I might be wrong on this - seems like it was pretty much well controlled to me though, memory serving)

And I guess it really depends on how you look at the Zeiss 24 vs the Leica 25. You can say the Zeiss charges you twice as much for the same focal length (boo!), or you can say the Zeiss gives you a fast AF 35mm equiv for APS-C (yay!)

something the m43 lacks.

I'm talking from the perspective of equivalency - what I get when the lens is mounted, not the physical dimensions of the lens when unmounted.

Most a semantic argument either way you go with it, though, and I do realize we're looking at a fast 25mm actual lens, so that's why I give mostly give it a pass when it comes to PF, even though it's nearly a $600 "50mm"

Aug 10, 2012 at 06:17 AM

Makten
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p.1 #17 · Problem with Fringing - M43

Patrick Cox wrote:
Here is a Canon 5D II and 70-300 L image for comparison. This was wide open at 300mm. Still some fringing but not nearly as bad.

Is that shot at the same distance? If the glass of the tank is involved, it should be worse the closer you are.

Aug 10, 2012 at 07:39 AM

Bifurcator
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p.1 #18 · Problem with Fringing - M43

cputeq wrote:
Yeah what Fly said - I think it's a good tradeoff for IBIS

Yeah, I actually hate that Plastisonic, errr, I mean Panasonic does that! It's too much like cheating. Call me a purist but I wanna see what the lens actually produces. So when I see smeary light points and mushy textures I'll know it was the lighting, setting, my processing, or whatever and not the camera trying to jimmy up the images!

On the OP's fringing it's the angle of the shot and the kind of light interacting with the different diffraction indexes of the air->glass->water and probably back again. That happens to any camera if the conditions are right. The best solution I know of is to shoot straight on (perpendicular) to the glass surface and light the scene from within the take - not from ANY external lighting sources. That usually cures most or all of the diffraction fringing - such as you're seeing in those images.

Aug 10, 2012 at 07:41 AM

Mescalamba
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p.1 #19 · Problem with Fringing - M43

Im fine with that correction as long as it works. Had both G1 and 14-45mm lens. Problem was, that it didnt work enough to cover all CA and fringe. Certain amount of that purplish-blue fringe is not possible to remove even today with last LR4.1. Same goes with too much of distortion correction. That lens lost a lot of its resolution thanks to that.

IMHO bit of CA and distortion correction is fine. We all do it sometimes in LR (or different SWs) to remove that bit of both that our lens produce. But its very bad idea to use it as part of lens design.

Latest 12-35mm f2.8 from Panasonic has pretty big amount of fringing too.. and thats some really expensive lens. Tho at least its amount thats correctable in LR. Still if I would pay so much for that lens..

Plus its really stupid in perspective. I have ages old Minolta lens that produce no fringing and only bit of CA in corners. Its old design, old lens and still much better than most Panasonic lens (in fact, probably all of them except few of those Leica designs).

Considering one of points and strengths of m4/3 and pretty much all mirrorless is ability to use almost all lens ever made, its very bad decision to depend on software corrections for native lens so much.

Aug 10, 2012 at 10:06 PM

LightShow
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p.1 #20 · Problem with Fringing - M43

Try the Adjustment brush with the only the Defringe slider.(LR 4.1)

Aug 10, 2012 at 11:34 PM

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