Wow! Really wish Markins explained this better

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kodakeos
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p.1 #1 · Wow! Really wish Markins explained this better

So i just totally messed up the bolt on my quick release plate.

I bought a new lever style one, and figured it would be an easy change. They sell it separate, no warnings or notices that you really shouldnt buy it without sending the whole ball head back for them to do the swap.

I thought it was a hex screw in the plate. Nope. So after about 5 minutes i give a call up to Vancouver and the gentleman tells me, the bolt is locktite'd in place. Its pretty easy to undue, just lock the head in place and hit the release knob with a hammer.
well that went OK.. release knob has some flat spots now but i dont plan on going back. However, the bolt is locktight'ed in at both ends.
So now i have a ball with no head, no bolt, and release plate with a bolt stuck in. I tried to undue that and messed up the threads. Crap.

Now I gotta send it ALL back up to Vancouver and get them to fix it :P

and if there was a warning or mention that its not as easy as 'unscrew, rescrew, done' I probably wouldnt have even bothered or attempted it.

BAH!

Jul 20, 2012 at 07:36 PM

dcains
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p.1 #2 · Wow! Really wish Markins explained this better

You might try holding the clamp in a vise, put two nuts on the stud (tightened against each other), and get the stud out that way. Might need to apply a little heat, as well. If the exposed threads on the stud are damaged too bad for nuts, perhaps a hefty pair of vise grips might work.

Jul 20, 2012 at 08:19 PM

runamuck
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p.1 #3 · Wow! Really wish Markins explained this better

I bought a Markins and have no intention of disassembling it. I like it the way it is. Thanks for the warning.

Jul 20, 2012 at 08:53 PM

kodakeos
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p.1 #4 · Wow! Really wish Markins explained this better

runamuck wrote:
I bought a Markins and have no intention of disassembling it. I like it the way it is. Thanks for the warning.

Neither did I - then 5 years goes by and they added a quick release level base - I knew there was a reason i hadnt fooled with it until now lol!

Jul 20, 2012 at 08:58 PM

dcains
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p.1 #5 · Wow! Really wish Markins explained this better

If you've got an undamaged ballhead, and a new clamp, just get yourself a new stud. No need to send it all back to Markins. Any hardware store will have a suitable bolt you can cut to length, or just order a new stud from Markins. it surely doesn't need to be titanium. I'd recommend Loctite Blue (never Red) applied sparingly, which is much easier to break loose, should the need arise.

Jul 20, 2012 at 09:47 PM

RobMoser
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p.1 #6 · Wow! Really wish Markins explained this better

When you suspect Loctite and the material isn't particularly delicate, use a small soldering iron on the bolt. Once you heat it up a bit, the Loctite softens and it's usually easy to disassemble.

Rob

Jul 21, 2012 at 12:07 AM

dcains
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p.1 #7 · Wow! Really wish Markins explained this better

It's actually tough to get Loctite (any version) to work on titanium and anodized aluminum parts. You've got to apply liberally, and use their 7088 primer. I wonder if Markins is using a cyanoacrylate thread-locker instead. I ordered my last two Markins heads without studs/clamps, so I wouldn't know.

Jul 21, 2012 at 01:29 AM

sjms
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p.1 #8 · Wow! Really wish Markins explained this better

http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/t_lkr_red/overview/Loctite-Threadlocker-Red-271.htm

http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/t_lkr_blue/overview/Loctite-Threadlocker-Blue-242.htm

http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/t_lkr_green/overview/Loctite-Threadlocker-Green-290.htm

they are meth acrylates

these generally have no real issue with either Ti or Al alloys. its all about getting it clean first

Edited on Jul 22, 2012 at 12:49 AM · View previous versions

Jul 21, 2012 at 06:41 PM

Mr Joe
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p.1 #9 · Wow! Really wish Markins explained this better

I was originally going to do it myself, but the hammer method didn't work, and neither did putting the ballhead in a vise. I even tried heating up the area where the Loctite was.

So instead of damaging my ballhead, I sent it up to Markins in Vancouver to have them replace the top plate. The email correspondence was friendly, they did the work at a reasonable price and turned it around in 1 day. A good experience and I'm a happy customer.

Jul 22, 2012 at 12:21 AM

EB-1
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p.1 #10 · Wow! Really wish Markins explained this better

What happened to the QR clamp that needed replacement on the Markins?

EBH

Jul 22, 2012 at 12:37 AM

runamuck
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p.1 #11 · Wow! Really wish Markins explained this better

sjms wrote:
http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/t_lkr_red/overview/Loctite-Threadlocker-Red-271.htm

http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/t_lkr_blue/overview/Loctite-Threadlocker-Blue-242.htm

http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/t_lkr_green/overview/Loctite-Threadlocker-Green-290.htm

they are meth acrylates

these generally have no real issue with either Ti or Al alloys. its all about getting it clean first
Anyone who use red loctite outside an industrial setting needs an intracranial examination. I've seen red loctite stand up to a 1 inch drive impact wrench for 10 minutes. Then I just gave up and got the smoke wrench.

Jul 22, 2012 at 04:51 AM

sjms
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p.1 #12 · Wow! Really wish Markins explained this better

and thats what they use on markins 271 and there are other variations too. using it for your needs is a matter of how it is and how much of it is applied.

Jul 22, 2012 at 01:12 PM

peter_n
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p.1 #13 · Wow! Really wish Markins explained this better

Yes they use red Loctite and generally advise you to use heat to remove. You can use a sudden force to shear blue Loctite but generally not red. They really should put this info on their web site so that customers know before they buy what they're getting, as this insistence on using red Loctite has caused consternation to quite a few buyers.

Jul 23, 2012 at 08:06 PM

sjms
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p.1 #14 · Wow! Really wish Markins explained this better

thus the thoughtful design of the RRS heads/clamps becomes apparent. no need for loctite at all. the use of blue loctite as a locker on a plate interface is less then adequate because its breakaway torque of 70 to 150 lb·in can be easily exceeded with the torque/lever action of longer/heavier lens/camera combinations.

ref doc: http://www.loctiteproducts.com/tds/T_LKR_BLUE_tds.pdf pg 3 of 3

Jul 29, 2012 at 01:54 PM

peter_n
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p.1 #15 · Wow! Really wish Markins explained this better

Well I've written to Steve Yoon at Markins about their rationale for the use of Loctite and he's not forthcoming on the subject. The theory is that they were sued because something bad happened but I've seen absolutely no evidence to support that.

Jul 30, 2012 at 04:37 PM

runamuck
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p.1 #16 · Wow! Really wish Markins explained this better

sjms wrote:
thus the thoughtful design of the RRS heads/clamps becomes apparent. no need for loctite at all. the use of blue loctite as a locker on a plate interface is less then adequate because its breakaway torque of 70 to 150 lb·in can be easily exceeded with the torque/lever action of longer/heavier lens/camera combinations.

ref doc: http://www.loctiteproducts.com/tds/T_LKR_BLUE_tds.pdf pg 3 of 3
Given torque like that, the screw holding the QR plate to the camera is far more likely to loosen than the screw holding the clamp. Granted, I don't carrty a torque wrench for use on the plate. A coin is good enough for me.

Jul 30, 2012 at 05:55 PM

Roland W
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p.1 #17 · Wow! Really wish Markins explained this better

I wanted to expand a little more on how the Really Right Stuff system works just to make it clear even to those who have not seen it. The interlocking ears and slot on the RRS ball heads and their quick release clamps allow the two parts to interlock, making it impossible for a loose screw to allow the clamp to come loose and rotate abruptly. The same goes for the RRS L plates and camera bottom only plates, where the contour of the plate that cradles the camera makes it impossible for a loose screw to allow the camera to come loose and rotate abruptly. I highly value how easy it is to change out clamps on my RRS ball heads, and how easy it is to get a secure mounting of a camera on my L plates, all without any thought of any Loctite product. The RRS method is only one of many things to consider when choosing a ball head, but it is a design feature that is not always thought about until after you get your ball head.

Jul 31, 2012 at 12:31 AM

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