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raven4ns wrote: ...I don't really understand what you said...
I'll expand it a bit.
As you said, 1/200 second may not be fast enough to freeze a flower that's moving around in the wind. (It may be fast enough, if it's not moving a lot, or if you're shooting from a distance that makes any given flower fill only part of the frame.)
If the flower is only lit by flash, though, the light from the flash can freeze it, since the burst of light from the flash is only around 1/1000 second...or even shorter.
So, no matter how long the shutter is open -- whether it's 1/200, 1/60, a full minute, or even longer -- the flower will only be exposed for that 1/1000 second.
That's in total darkness, though. If there's any ambient light in addition to the flash, then the flower will exposed for however long the shutter is open.
If there's only a little ambient light, and if you have a small aperture and a fast shutter speed, then the ambient light may not be at a recordable level, so only the flash would count.
If there's a lot of light, though, then it'll count, and you'll have a blurred flower.
The final option is to use a special flash mode in cameras and with flash units that have it, and that's FP (focal plane mode) or HSS (High Speed Sync mode) flash. In HSS, you can use faster-than-sync-speed shutter speeds, because the Speedlite is pulsed very quickly to act like continuous light during the time the shutter slit is moving across the film/sensor.
HSS mode flash isn't as powerful as normal flash, but at the close range used for most flower photography that isn't an issue.
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