My DIY Kino Flo's

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My DIY Kino Flo's

cinefiel
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p.3 #1 · My DIY Kino Flo's

Ok, after some search on the internet it seams better indeed to use fluorescent light. Though the TL8 bulbs seam to harder to find then the TL5's, at least here in Europe. It's said the TL5 can be brighter and more energy efficient. The 6 TL fixture someone posted seams very tempting but I don't think they sell here in Europe. So it might be hard to find a good reflecting fixture. I don't know if 2 tubes per kino flo would be enough because I don't want to put my lamps to close to the model so I have enough flexibility. The light will also be used more for filming so maybe 4 to 6 tubes per kino would be good choice. And if they would be to bright I can always hang a diffuse filter in front of the kino. Still, I don't know if there are good reflecting aluminum fixtures here in europe that support 4 to 6 tubes. Can someone help me with that?

Oct 30, 2012 at 09:14 AM

cinefiel
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p.3 #2 · My DIY Kino Flo's

I plan to try and copy the system Gintsar made using TL aluminum reflectors from Acradia, witch don't seam heavy, and a correx sheet. Although correx doesn't seem to sell in Belgium and I can't find fluted polypropylene plates like Correx makes. Does anyone know other companies that make similar sheets as Correx? I'm going to use this tubes: http://www.ecat.lighting.philips.com/l/lamps/fluorescent-lamps/tl5/master-tl5-high-output-90-de-luxe/927993096524_eu/

They're the brightest tubes I can find and with 90+ CRI (I think it's 93 CRI). You think these might be good enough? I couldn't find the 98 CRI tubes and I don't know if they would be bright enough.

I also wonder how I can make the ballast remote. Gintsar seamed to have used a project box but I don't know how that works and can't find something similar where I live.

Nov 16, 2012 at 01:55 PM

RustyBug
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p.3 #3 · My DIY Kino Flo's

One thing to note @ CRI ... it is based upon a relative value to "standard" value of 5500 or 3500 (iirc) ... according to OEM catalog info.

Which means that a bulb with a temp of 5000 is going to have a higher CRI than one with a temp of 6500 (i.e. 5000 more closely matches 5500 than 6500 does). That being said, I'm not saying that 5000 is better than 6500 because it has a higher CRI, but rather that you won't be able to find a "higher CRI" for a 6500 bulb, because 6500 is simply "farther away" from the "standard".

Personally, I'm of the opinion that 6500 is the way to go, since D65 has its significance in RGB creation of white light. Sure, it means that you'll have to set your WB to 6500 rather than daylight, but, imo that's no biggie.

Interesting to note as well regarding CRI ... there are TWO standards of CRI that OEM is using in their lableing. I saw this in the "fine print" of lighting mfr catalogs. One for WARM bulbs and one for COOL bulbs. Sorry that I don't recall what the WARM standard is, but say it is 3500K ... then a bulb of 3200K will have a higher CRI than a bulb of 4000K. And of course a bulb of 3500K would have the highest CRI (i.e. compared to the "standard" for warm). In that regard, you could have a WARM bulb with a higher CRI than a cool bulb, even though the cool bulb is closer to "daylight" than the WARM bulb.

That being noted, it is easy for a bulb to have a higher CRI than your chosen 6500 bulb simply because it more closely approximates ONE of the TWO "standards". Knowing that ... I wouldn't let the lower (93 vs. 98) CRI deter me from the 6500K.

Personally, my research into the issue @ available options brought me to more of a conclusion that CRI is somewhat of a

... i.e. that if I've got a 6500K bulb, it is obviously not as close to 5500K (cool standard iirc) as a 5000K bulb.

That being said ... my perspective is that as stand alone, I'd prefer the 6500K (D65). But, if I wanted to consider the viability @ mixing fluorescent with electronic flash ... the 5000K bulbs would be a closer match in temp for many flash that are @ 5200-5600 range. Also, noting that if you were also using a studio light that incurs a color shift (warmer) at reduced power (-300K ish) the 5000K bulbs would be likely closer yet.

Nov 16, 2012 at 04:00 PM

cinefiel
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p.3 #4 · My DIY Kino Flo's

It's for video use so D65 is good for me and I need my lamps to be as bright as possible because I want flexibility. I was toying around with the idea of 856 80watts tubes but that probably wouldn't give me enough CRI.

Still try to find a similar polypropylene fluted sheet as the Correx sheets but they don't seem as easy to find. I could also use some advice as how to hide the ballast somewhere remote. I think Gintsar used a project box but I can't find something similar in where I live.

Nov 19, 2012 at 10:38 AM

cinefiel
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p.3 #5 · My DIY Kino Flo's

I found the polypropylene fluted plates but I also found a fixture for twin TL5's with a wide aluminum reflector: http://www.verlichting-elektra.nl/index.php?item=trog-2x54w-hf-tl5-trogarmatuur-reflector-hoogglans&action=article&aid=20331&lang=NL

I know it would be heavier because the ballasts are in this fixture but I think it would spare me some serious trouble. I just wonder how much lumen this system with two tubes an reflector) will produce using the 950 50Watts TL5 tubes? If I may believe the technical spec one only would produce 4300 lumen but I don't know how reliable that number is:
http://www.lampdirect.nl/philips-tl5-ho-90-de-luxe-54w-965-115cm-master/
Would I have double the lumen when I use two tubes or how do you calculate this? And how close would the light output be to a real kino flo?

Nov 26, 2012 at 09:07 AM

buggz2k
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p.3 #6 · My DIY Kino Flo's

How well would something like this be for a digital "darkroom".
For editing with calibrated monitor, and printing on calibrated printer?

Nov 29, 2012 at 09:45 PM

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