Share tip/setting of your 5D Mark III

Home · Register · Search · Software · Hosting · Software · Join Upload & Sell

FM Forum Rules
Canon SLRs, primes, and zooms lenses reviews

FM Forums \| Canon-mount SLRs \| Join Upload & Sell
1 2 end

Archive 2012 · Share tip/setting of your 5D Mark III

AGeoJO
Online
• • • • • •
Upload & Sell: On

p.1 #1 · Share tip/setting of your 5D Mark III

The 5D Mark III has been available for almost a month now. This thread is not about praising nor bashing the camera but more about how to make the most out of the camera by actual users. Please share your experience and tips with your fellow FMers, again without going into too emotional about the merit or dislikes of the camera since we had quite a bit of threads from both sides. Here, we can talk about and discuss the merit of certain settings, operation modes or maybe a custom function or two of the camera that you think other 5D Mark III users may benefit from your experience and/or setting. Please include your typical application that sees some kind of improvement over other cameras you had used prior to the 5D Mark III.

The AF capability of that camera made me change my workflow. Up to this point, unless I was shooting wildlife using my other body/bodies, I set and used my 5D Mark II 100% at the single focus mode. Either I focused and recomposed, if I thought the depth-of-field is enough to "mask" a slight OOF situation or I tried to use one of the outer AF points in the vicinity of my target (mostly eyes or the closest eye) with some success. When I first got my 5D Mark III, I set the camera to focus using the back button, added AF expansion, opted for the joystick for AF selection and slowly but surely I moved away from the single focus mode I was accustomed to with the 5D Mark II and used AI Servo more and more with the Mark III as my confidence in its AF capability grew. Last Saturday at an Intertribal Native American pow-wow, I took 1,300+ shots using AI Servo exclusively. If the target is stationary, I just pushed the AF button and I took the picture by pressing the shutter button. Most of the time during that event, the target moved and I just kept the AF button pressed, I followed the eye/eyes, or at least the face if further away. Sometimes I did so without actually shooting; I triggered the shutter button for continuous shooting just as I saw fit. Since I was in AI Servo I had to rely on the AF system of that camera without hearing any beep or seeing any red light flash or seeing the green light on the bottom of the viewfinder for focus confirmation. What I like the best is the number of in-focus shots. Granted, not all in-focus shots are good though but you can select your keepers of the best expression, composition and bokeh among in-focus shots. Did I get any OOF shots? Of course, I did. I got tired after shooting for 6+ hours that my left hand that support most of the camera/lens weight started to tremble during the last hour...

.

What would I do had I still used my 5D Mark II? If they moved, I would have used only the center AF point and AI Servo targeting their eye or eyes and I would have cropped the excess space in post processing. If they were stationary or close to be stationary, I would have used the single shot mode and I would use any AF point targeting their eye/eyes. In addition, I would stop down the aperture about one stop or so to increase the depth-of-field, just in case. You can deduce your own conclusion on the result based on that.

I changed the format from landscape to portrait and vice versa quite a bit, too. From experience I know that for people pictures the two most common starting AF points would be in the upper center for both formats. Of course, I can change that as needed but I setup the two as my main starting AF point, each time I push the joystick it toggles between the center AF point and my selected point. In the 4th AF setting menu, there is an option of setting the AF selection of your choice according to the camera orientation. I chose "select separate AF point" (the second option); now, whether I take people pictures in landscape or portrait format, the starting AF point will be close to the eye area. The 7D has that option, too but the 7D is not my preferred body for people photography. Using the 5D Mark II, each time you flip the camera, you have to move the AF point manually to whatever AF point of your choice. In the 5D Mark III, it is not only slightly faster but for sure it makes your life easier having this option.

I venture to say that the AI Servo mode of the 5D Mark III has a wide range of application, more than I originally anticipated. In addition to sport and wildlife, based on its excellent reliability, at least in my experience, it can be used for people photography, especially children photography since children can barely stand still or you don't want them to stand still to get the best expression and if you like using a fast lens for that particular look of a shallow depth-of-field. Furthermore, I venture to say, at least for the most part, AI Servo should perform just fine for weddings or similar type events. Studio application, like formal portraits, since you stop down more should be OK, as well but a single shot AF may be better, especially if you use the spot focus option.

How well AI Servo will perform in low light situation, let's say a dimly lit reception hall? I have not used this camera at a wedding. From my limited experience, it performs pretty well, too but I would not rely on that method for a paid gig, such as a wedding, without figuring it first out yourself. Let your own comfort level in that camera be the judge

Thanks and let's see others then please!

Apr 20, 2012 at 01:31 PM

Jim Victory
Offline
• • • • •
Upload & Sell: On

p.1 #2 · Share tip/setting of your 5D Mark III

My first real test of the 5D MK3 came last week when I made a three day trip to the Texas coast to photograph migratory birds dropping in. I took a total of about 1150 shots and although some didn't have the framing I wanted they were all in focus. Thats 100% which was unheard of with other cameras I have owned and that included every camera Canon has manufactured since they went digital.

All of my shots were taken with the 500 f/4L IS + 1.4x III TC handheld. I'm pointing out that they were handheld because that made it even more difficult to maintain focus.

I shot in manual mode and set the shutter speed from 1/500 to 1/800 and the aperture from f/5.6 to f/8. I started out using single shot with the center AF point moving it on occasion to the outer points as needed for framing.

After checking some shots to see how it was doing I moved to Servo and started using the center point, center with 4 surrounding points, and center with 8 surrounding points. I found all of the settings to work great no matter the situation. As long as you locked the center focus point on your initial attempt the outer points maintained focus even with movement.

I then started to try the various Case settings. Although I found #1 to work pretty well with anything I did Case 2 was more forgiving on moving targets. Once locked on using Case 2 and center and 8 surrounding points selected tracking was effortless. No matter what obstacle enter the picture, in front of the subject, it continued to maintain focus.

As a result of the performance in Servo I continued to use it exclusively even with stationary subjects. I saw no difference in focusing ability or accuracy between the Servo and one shot mode for stationary subjects.

I usually set the AF point to single for stationary and sometimes spot if the situation needed it but by the end of my trip I was able to squeeze off just one shot with it set at 6fps so I went with that. It allowed me to be able to move from multiple frames to single without the need to change any settings therfore I could use Servo with 6fps setting for all shots. That left me only needing to change the focus point setting as needed.

Without going into detail about every custom function setting I basically set it up like other cameras I have owned only changing functions from default to those I was accustom to using. Nothing that would normally impact the picture taking performance but rather convenience and familiarity of use.

I do have to say that I wasn't handicapped by the AF point display in the viewfinder shooting in bright daylight and cloudy conditions. I could see the focus point in black and the green light indicating focus lock so I assumed it was in focus and shot. After a while my confidence in the camera locking focus didn't require any confirmation as long as the focus point was over my subject.

The ability of the AF to lock in low light on low contrast subjects was amazing. I have included a shot of a Female RWBB that I had a hard time even seeing and couldn't even tell what it was. The picture before processing doesn't show how dark the area really was but if you look at the processed shot it is in sharp focus. My MKIV would have hunted all day on this shot and I wouldn''t have even tried it but I was experimenting. Its not a keeper but it does show how well this camera handles low light low contrast focusing. It was shot at 1/800, f/7.1, and ISO 2000.

I did move the AF point movement to the joystick which made it very easy to use and frame the subject getting focus where you wanted it. I look forward to getting the new grip with the built in joystick because trying to shoot vertically hanheld with the 500 and using the joystick was very cumbersome. In fact trying to shoot vertically with that combo was more difficult handholding because of your hand orientation.

Jim

2013 © Jim Victory

Apr 20, 2012 at 07:11 PM

jdben622
Offline
• • • •
Upload & Sell: Off

p.1 #3 · Share tip/setting of your 5D Mark III

I've set the DOF button to toggle between Servo and one-shot. That was if I'm shooting Servo and the subject stops, I can quickly switch the camera into one-shot and get the focus confirmation. I like to hear the "beep" as well, when I can.

I'm having better luck at putting the focus point on the chest of a person, rather than the eyes. The chest is often very close to the focus plane that I want and it's working out pretty well so far. I'd be curious if anyone has tested the AI Focus function. It's always been a dog in the past, but a couple casual tests I did seemed to work very well.

Taking the time to match up the new AF scenario presets in the menu is worth the effort.

I'm using the 8 wrap-around AF assist points more than ever before. Reading Chuck's comments on the camera putting priority in the selected point, but using the surrounding points when needed gave me greater confidence to try them.

I did some experimenting with the full screen AF and it worked better than I expected. It makes sense that tracking a moving subject with a fixed AF point does tend to result in repeated framing and a series of photos that aren't terribly unique from each other. Having a subject "run through" the view finder with the camera in auto AF worked pretty good. Resulted in an in-focus series of shots with the subject in various positions of the frame. Much more interesting. I need to play with this one more and it definitely helps to have a single subject against a clean background so the camera knows precisely what to focus on.

Overall, I'm really happy with the AF of the camera. I'm sure there is plenty more to learn to optimize its capabilities.

Apr 20, 2012 at 10:41 PM

Jonathan Huynh
Offline
• • • • •
Upload & Sell: On

p.1 #4 · Share tip/setting of your 5D Mark III

Auto focus of 5D III is exceptional however do know there limitation.
This is why all pro body Nikon or Canon built in custom function.
listing below is my setting. for 5D III Custom function.

Multi purpose setting.
tracking sensitivity 0
accel./decel. tracking -1
AF OF auto switching -1

Continue to track subject, and ignoring abstacles.
this to allow focus a moving subject and ignoring obstacles surrounding.
Example shooing football , only to tracking one player and ignoring all other.
Tracking sensitivity -2
accel./decel. tracking -2
AF OF auto switching -2

Instantly focus on subjects
Tracking sensitivity +2
accel./decel. tracking 0
AF OF auto switching -2

Bird shooting this setting allow camera to tracking target subject moves any direction up/down/left/right.
Tracking sensitivity 0
accel./decel. tracking -2
AF OF auto switching 0

All the Auto focus setting available in the 5DIII can be very confusing.
Just remember one thing, setting
Negative side camera will try to continue focusing and tracking a subject.
Positive side camera will focus quicker.

These are some of my custom functions.
Reference to Canon 5D III manual from pages. 85 to pages 95

Apr 21, 2012 at 03:35 AM

AGeoJO
Online
• • • • • •
Upload & Sell: On

p.1 #5 · Share tip/setting of your 5D Mark III

Jim, John and Jonathan, thank you for sharing your experience and tips

Apr 21, 2012 at 02:59 PM

arbitrage
Offline
• • •
Upload & Sell: On

p.1 #6 · Share tip/setting of your 5D Mark III

All righty, here goes.....

I have had the 5D3 for a few weeks now. I previously used a 7D since June 2010 and had just recently bought the 5D2 in January 2012 when it was selling for $1999. After seeing the difference the FF sensor made and then finding out that the 5D3 was going to get the 1DX AF, I was hooked. Another $3700 out the door and after messing around with 2 aborted US preorders I got a Canadian store to match the price of the US within about $50 and I was good to go

I shoot mostly landscapes, wildlife, birds and some macro when at home and then the rest of the time use my cameras on vacations which also mostly involve landscapes and wildlife.

With the 5D3 most of my shooting so far has been wildlife and mostly of the Trumpeter swan variety as they are migrating through the area. I've also done some landscape work and some flower macro in the house (too cold for outdoor flowers right now!).

The following info is mainly for my swan pictures using the Canon 100-400 IS L lens:

I've settled on AF mode 2 as they are usually flying in a straight line at a constant speed. That seems to be the description of mode2. I haven't tinkered with the fine tuning of that mode.

I use AI Servo 1st Image Priority set all the way to the right at "Focus". This is supposed to make the camera focus before it starts to rattle off some shots but since I'm using back button focus I'm not sure if this setting matters anyways.

I have AI Servo 2nd image priority set to "Equal"

I set Lens Drive when AF impossible to OFF so that it won't try to leave my swan's focal plane if I don't have the AF point on the swan for a few seconds.

I have Selectable AF point to "61 points". This could be changed to only x-type but I have it flash the non-xtype anyways and I will use the non-xtype sometimes when it works for the framing. The 5D3 seems good with all the points anyways.

I have AF area selection method set to "Main Dial" this means that I push the AF selection button (one to the right of the * button) and then use the top scroll wheel instead of the M-Fn button to cycle through the different modes.

I've mainly been using AF point expansion with either 4 or 8 points depending on the situation but don't really have a preference yet for which is better.

I keep the AF pt manual selection pattern at "stops at edges" so that I don't run it to the other side when I'm quickly switching to an outside point.

I have AF pt display set at Selected (pre-AF, focused), I've also used Selected(constant). With the pre-AF, focused way I know that it is focused because the point shows up again after disappearing for a short time. However for swans this doesn't matter as I'm in AI Servo anyways.
VF illumination is set to ON and as we all know from other threads you can't see the red in outdoor type light anyways so probably leaving it at AUTO would work fine as well.

I have set up my camera with the C1-3 modes for different types of shots. 2 of those C modes are used for my BIF. I have one set at Tv for SS of 1/2000 and Auto-ISO. Usually this automatically puts the lens to maximum aperture which is what I want as my 100-400 is sharp wide open. I also change the AF safety shift in C.Fn1:Exposure (orange) menu to ISO instead of Tv/Av or OFF. My second C mode is set up in Manual mode and I usually just dial in settings based on the light I'm dealing with but if I'm shooting the swans over snow and then against trees in the same area then I usually use the Tv mode to allow EV to be set.

Under Custom Controls (where you change what all the buttons can do) I have the shutter set to metering start. The Af-ON set to AE Lock Hold (*H) which is a new mode that wasn't on the 7D or 5D2 and allows the AE lock to not be lost while you continue to shoot. I don't use AE lock much but when I do, I usually would like it to stay locked for a number of shots/compositions. I use the * button for metering and AF start as I like the placement and size of it over the AF-ON button. I've always used it like this on the 7D. I keep the DOF preview button as the DOF preview as I like the new placement and it works great. I think the other useful setting for this button would be to switch one-shot to servo but with back button focus you already have a pseudo one-shot by just doing a single push and release on the back button so I don't need it to do that.
Right now I have the SET button set to ISO so that I can change the ISO easier if I'm in M mode as you need it to compensate quickly for EV changes as Canon continues to not allow EV compensation in M mode. Others have set this to Magnify glass which does help those with learning disabilities get used to the new way to zoom

. I find more use for leaving it as ISO as otherwise I have to reach up to the tiny buttons above the top LCD to change ISO on the fly.

Now when I'm doing normal people photos or just shooting large wildlife that is relatively still then I use my 3rd C mode set to Av mode, One-shot, Silent shutter mode. I think of this as my "relaxed" or "calm" mode. I also have the One-shot AF release priority set to Focus but with back button focus it doesn't really matter.

I also like having the grid lines turned on in the LCD as it helps me level my landscapes, I have a tendency to shoot at a cocked angle all the time. I also have the M-Fn button set to bring up the electronic level in the VF but don't use that much.

That is a lot of typing. Hope it may give some people some ideas of what to try.

I really love this camera and unlike others I'm not afflicted by problems with the VF visibility. Most that have problems with it will probably think I'm crazy but I actually think they are crazy for finding much issue with it especially those complaining about it in normal and good light. I do see a few issues in very dark rooms but even then the red lighting works for me. Rant over.

Happy shooting

Apr 22, 2012 at 12:05 AM

CW100
Offline
• • • •
Upload & Sell: Off

p.1 #7 · Share tip/setting of your 5D Mark III

arbitrage wrote:
All righty, here goes.....

I have had the 5D3 for a few weeks now. I previously used a 7D since June 2010 and had just recently bought the 5D2 in January 2012 when it was selling for $1999. After seeing the difference the FF sensor made and then finding out that the 5D3 was going to get the 1DX AF, I was hooked. Another $3700 out the door and after messing around with 2 aborted US preorders I got a Canadian store to match the price of the US within about $50 and I was good to go

good tips

Apr 23, 2012 at 10:29 AM

seantoleary
Offline
•
Upload & Sell: Off

p.1 #8 · Share tip/setting of your 5D Mark III

Hi everyone.... first time post to FredMiranda.... and also first time full frame owner!!! woooo

Thanks for the awesome tips on configuring custom functionality of the 5D Mark III. I previously shot on the 7D and just have one query that I'm hoping someone can answer.

Previously on the 7D it was possible to move the focus point by half pressing the shutter and then moving the joystick.... On the 5D Mark III it seems like you have to press the cross hair button (top right) before being able to use the joystick. I realise that it is necessary to press this button to change between focussing modes (eg. spot, single point, AF point expansion, zone etc).

If anyone can knows how to miss this unnecessary step which is possible on the 7D could they please let me know.

Thanks again everyone for your tips,

Sean.

May 09, 2012 at 09:25 AM

goosemang
Offline
• • •
Upload & Sell: Off

p.1 #9 · Share tip/setting of your 5D Mark III

i shoot a mixture of stationary/wider stuff, street, candid portraits and erratic "people Servo". i do not shoot sports or wildlife. here's how i've got my custom functions laid out (less some minor settings i can't recall off the top of my head... like that i write RAW to the CF and JPG to the SD, etc.)

C1 - this is my wider angle, deeper DoF setting.

- Av set to f/8
- highlight tone priority enabled
- 1 shot AF
- DoF preview set to toggle to AI Servo
- Silent drive, multiple shot
- AF selections available: 1 point, zone, auto selection (zone is default)
- ISO Available 50-12,800, auto minimum shutter speed 1/250

C2 - this is for shallower DoF, shooting on the street with more normal to short telephoto focal lengths and whatnot

- Av set to f/2.8
- 1 shot AF
- DoF preview set to toggle to AI Servo
- Silent drive, multiple shot
- AF selections available: 1 point, zone (1 point is default)
- orientation linked AF: horizontal point set to center, vertical (grip up) point set to the top 1/3 of the frame so i can hit faces in portrait position, vertical (grip down) point set to the bottom 1/3 of the frame for when i want to have my subject in the lower part of the frame and allow the surroundings to fill the rest
- ISO Available 50-12,800, auto minimum shutter speed 1/125

C3 - shallower DoF, moving subjects, normal to short telephoto lengths

- Av set to f/2.8
- AI Servo set (i am still playing with/tweaking the particular servo modes, particularly #5 and #6. i find you have to adjust on the fly for a while to find what you like best here)
- DoF preview set to toggle AF to single shot
- high speed drive
- AF selections available: Spot AF, 1 point, zone (spot is default)
- orientation linked AF: horizontal Point set to center, vertical (grip up) Spot set to the top 1/3 of the frame so i can hit faces in portrait position, vertical (grip down) Point set to the bottom 1/3 of the frame
- ISO Available 50-12,800, auto minimum shutter speed 1/250

umm.... that's all i can remember right now. brain isn't functioning yet today

i finally got around to setting these up about 2 weeks ago now, and am refining as i use them.

Edited on May 09, 2012 at 01:19 PM · View previous versions

May 09, 2012 at 01:12 PM

arbitrage
Offline
• • •
Upload & Sell: On

p.1 #10 · Share tip/setting of your 5D Mark III

seantoleary wrote:
Hi everyone.... first time post to FredMiranda.... and also first time full frame owner!!! woooo

Thanks for the awesome tips on configuring custom functionality of the 5D Mark III. I previously shot on the 7D and just have one query that I'm hoping someone can answer.

Previously on the 7D it was possible to move the focus point by half pressing the shutter and then moving the joystick.... On the 5D Mark III it seems like you have to press the cross hair button (top right) before being able to use the joystick. I realise that it is necessary to press this button to change between focussing modes (eg. spot, single point, AF point expansion, zone etc).

If anyone can knows how to miss this unnecessary step which is possible on the 7D could they please let me know.

Thanks again everyone for your tips,

Sean.

Hi Sean,

Welcome to Fred Miranda.
In order to do what you want to do, go into the Q menu and then go to Custom Controls section where you can customize what all the different buttons do. In this section go to the icon for the joystick (multi-controller) and you have to turn on "AF point direct selection"

This should then work like you are used to on the 7D. Basically once metering is activated or focus is activated you can then just move the joystick to change the AF point.

May 09, 2012 at 01:18 PM

goosemang
Offline
• • •
Upload & Sell: Off

p.1 #11 · Share tip/setting of your 5D Mark III

oh, and just some general camera settings

- RAW's go to the CF
- JPG's go to the SD for backup purposes and get deleted unless needed
- Adobe RGB color space
- SET button displays last image, NOT at 100%, just regular
- Playback button displays image with RGB histograms

then i setup My Menu with the following things i mess with often:

- custom White Balance
- highlight tone priority on/off
- highlight alert enable/disable
- orientation linked AF toggle
- ISO settings

and a few others i can't think of right now...

edit: thought of another one.....

i've got it set so my AF point disappears once AF is achieved in all my CF settings except C3 (servo)

edit: oh, and for the love of god set it up so you can move the AF point with the joystick without having to hit that little button first

May 09, 2012 at 01:18 PM

PhilDrinkwater
Offline
• • •
Upload & Sell: Off

p.1 #12 · Share tip/setting of your 5D Mark III

Best thing I've found so far is that you can customise "set" to "change ISO". I've always found it a bit of a pain changing ISO with the top button as I change it a lot during a day... You use "set" with the front dial with this - much quicker!

Plus in manual mode the exposure meter stays working so you can see what you're doing to the scene exposure as you change ISO.

I've wanted this for ages!! Camera just paid for itself again!

Edited on May 10, 2012 at 08:42 AM · View previous versions

May 09, 2012 at 09:34 PM

seantoleary
Offline
•
Upload & Sell: Off

p.1 #13 · Share tip/setting of your 5D Mark III

Thanks for the welcome and the help,

I have already set that function and I still need to press the top right button (on the back panel of the camera) before being able to use the joystick.

Like you said, on the 7D it would:

"once metering is activated or focus is activated you can then just move the joystick to change the AF point."

Can anyone confirm that it is possible to fix this in settings? Arbitrage?

I shoot pre-school portraiture, mostly semi-candid stuff and the little guys move around a lot hence adjusting the focal point quickly is essential. I'm used to half pressing shutter then moving focal point to where i need it, half press focus, fire shutter. The additional press of the top right button seems unnecessary and slows things down.

If anyone can help it would be greatly appreciated.

p.s. Thanks arbitrage but I thought the same as you but it doesn't seem to have fixed the issue.
p.p.s I'm running firmware 1.1.2

May 10, 2012 at 06:57 AM

te4o
Offline
• •
Upload & Sell: Off

p.1 #14 · Share tip/setting of your 5D Mark III

PhilDWedding wrote:
Best thing I've found so far is that you can customise "set" to "change ISO". I've always found it a bit of a pain changing ISO with the top button as I change it a lot during a day... You use "set" with the front dial with this - much quicker!

Plus in manual mode the exposure meter stays working so you can see what you're doing to the scene exposure as you change ISO.

I've wanted this for ages!! Camera just paid for itself again!

Phil, my D30 was set like that in 1999... The SET button was programmable to ISO. Nil novum sub sole.

May 10, 2012 at 11:28 AM

PhilDrinkwater
Offline
• • •
Upload & Sell: Off

p.1 #15 · Share tip/setting of your 5D Mark III

te4o wrote:
PhilDWedding wrote:
Best thing I've found so far is that you can customise "set" to "change ISO". I've always found it a bit of a pain changing ISO with the top button as I change it a lot during a day... You use "set" with the front dial with this - much quicker!

Plus in manual mode the exposure meter stays working so you can see what you're doing to the scene exposure as you change ISO.

I've wanted this for ages!! Camera just paid for itself again!

Phil, my D30 was set like that in 1999... The SET button was programmable to ISO. Nil novum sub sole.

I never saw that on the 5d2... Did I miss something?

May 10, 2012 at 11:42 AM

te4o
Offline
• •
Upload & Sell: Off

p.1 #16 · Share tip/setting of your 5D Mark III

seantoleary wrote:
Thanks for the welcome and the help,

I have already set that function and I still need to press the top right button (on the back panel of the camera) before being able to use the joystick.

Like you said, on the 7D it would:

"once metering is activated or focus is activated you can then just move the joystick to change the AF point."

Can anyone confirm that it is possible to fix this in settings? Arbitrage?

I shoot pre-school portraiture, mostly semi-candid stuff and the little guys move around a lot hence adjusting the focal point quickly is essential. I'm used to half pressing shutter then moving focal point to where i need it, half press focus, fire shutter. The additional press of the top right button seems unnecessary and slows things down.

If anyone can help it would be greatly appreciated.

p.s. Thanks arbitrage but I thought the same as you but it doesn't seem to have fixed the issue.
p.p.s I'm running firmware 1.1.2

Like the post before: it works just like you want it: I have mine set like that: C-fn to assign buttons and assign AF direct to multicontoller. In AF settings change selecting AF points to eliminate the M-fn button I.e. direct cross-button and front selector wheel.
I use the preregistration AF points a lot (AF-on) and jump with the multicontoller between centre (straight push) and last selected (straight push again, fine tune the point.) I like the DOF preview set to switch between AF One shot and AI servo.

May 10, 2012 at 11:48 AM

seantoleary
Offline
•
Upload & Sell: Off

p.1 #17 · Share tip/setting of your 5D Mark III

te4o wrote:
seantoleary wrote:
Thanks for the welcome and the help,

I have already set that function and I still need to press the top right button (on the back panel of the camera) before being able to use the joystick.

Like you said, on the 7D it would:

"once metering is activated or focus is activated you can then just move the joystick to change the AF point."

Can anyone confirm that it is possible to fix this in settings? Arbitrage?

I shoot pre-school portraiture, mostly semi-candid stuff and the little guys move around a lot hence adjusting the focal point quickly is essential. I'm used to half pressing shutter then moving focal point to where i need it, half press focus, fire shutter. The additional press of the top right button seems unnecessary and slows things down.

If anyone can help it would be greatly appreciated.

p.s. Thanks arbitrage but I thought the same as you but it doesn't seem to have fixed the issue.
p.p.s I'm running firmware 1.1.2

Like the post before: it works just like you want it: I have mine set like that: C-fn to assign buttons and assign AF direct to multicontoller. In AF settings change selecting AF points to eliminate the M-fn button I.e. direct cross-button and front selector wheel.
I use the preregistration AF points a lot (AF-on) and jump with the multicontoller between centre (straight push) and last selected (straight push again, fine tune the point.) I like the DOF preview set to switch between AF One shot and AI servo.

Starting to really frustrate me guys so if anyone can give me specific instructions that would be great.

I have gone into the Custom Controls and have the Multi-Controller set to AF point direct selection.
Is there something else I need to change?

Am also enjoying the SET functioning as ISO changer. Has anyone had any success with the Multi exposures or HDR settings?

Also just started shooting JPEG for some clients so the Picture Style feature is suddenly important. Haven' used it before so if anyone has any tips for portraiture. Awesome. Thanks for the help.....I love this mark iii and if I can get this one focus thing fixed it will be complete.

May 10, 2012 at 12:26 PM

PhilDrinkwater
Offline
• • •
Upload & Sell: Off

p.1 #18 · Share tip/setting of your 5D Mark III

seantoleary wrote:
Am also enjoying the SET functioning as ISO changer.

It's a real game changer for me! Being able to change ISO without moving away from the viewfinder... fantastic!

May 10, 2012 at 12:32 PM

arbitrage
Offline
• • •
Upload & Sell: On

p.1 #19 · Share tip/setting of your 5D Mark III

seantoleary wrote:

Hey Sean,

Its working like you want on mine and I can't see any other setting that affects it. I use back button focus so my * button is my focus button and the main shutter button is just metering start and shutter release. If I hit the shutter 1/2 way then the joystick will move the point. If I hit the * button then the camera focuses and then I can use joystick also. But I don't have to hit the button next to the * button unless I want to change the AF mode (like spot, single, expansion etc).

Not sure why it isn't working for you

May 10, 2012 at 12:40 PM

arbitrage
Offline
• • •
Upload & Sell: On

p.1 #20 · Share tip/setting of your 5D Mark III

PhilDWedding wrote:
seantoleary wrote:
Am also enjoying the SET functioning as ISO changer.

It's a real game changer for me! Being able to change ISO without moving away from the viewfinder... fantastic!

I know it is one of the things I had read about before getting the camera and was super excited. A lot of people have decided to use the SET as the magnify button as they can't get used to having to use two hands to do a quick review but I really like the ISO function better after trying the magnify button there for a week decided to go back to ISO. I wish I could make the M-Fn or Af-on button do ISO but the SET button is a good start.

May 10, 2012 at 12:44 PM

1 2 end
FM Forums \| Canon-mount SLRs \| Join Upload & Sell 1 2 end