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For a remote camera driven remotely by a PocketWizard link, you should look in to the PocketWizard Multimax. It can do time lapse on its own, over a wide range of timing, and send out remote camera triggering to other PocketWizards. With a MultiMax at your control location, you should be able to use a standard PocketWizard at the camera, but check out limitations that might be overcome by putting a Multimax or one of the new PocketWizard Plus III units at the camera to allow proper wake up and focus and exposure metering before the frame is actually taken. That hookup is complex and needs the right cables and PocketWizard settings, so if you are considering it, talk directly to PocketWizard or read their posted manuals carefully.
If you must have a lap top involved, and it can do the timelapse part, then I think you are stuck with using USB to a local camera, and then pass its trigger on to the remote camera via a pair of PocketWizards. You might find a special camera adapter or USB adapter that can directly trigger a PocketWizard with a contact closure, but it would also likely need special software to go with it, which may not be compatable with what you are trying to do on the computer.
And if the remote camera can be controled by a wire, then the Canon timelapse remote or other brands are possible. Canon makes a long extension cord that is like 30 feet, and you can combine them. Or you can adapt an extension cord to other wire to go further than a couple of remote cords.
And I assume you need to start and stop this remote shooting operation remotely. If you could live with going to the camera to start and stop things, then a local remote time lapse controler right at the remote camera will be the lowest cost solution.
For any remote camera, be sure you have enough storage capacity on the card or cards in the camera, and consider shooting JPEG to extend that capacity rather than shooting in RAW. Also consider that you may run out of battery energy. Most cameras have an AC adapter setup which can give you un limited shooting time by replacing the battery with the power adapter if there is AC at the remote camera location. And for any remote camera, turning IS off and setting focus to manual and prefocusing things is often the best approach, and can eliminate the need for pretrigering. But camera wakeup is still a possible issue unless you can afford the energy it takes to set the camera to stay on all the time.
Edit: Just saw your post indicating that a simple remote control is going to work for you, which is great. Perhaps my thoughts above will be of use to others.