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Thanks all! Perhaps it was a humidity thing (makes sense). But after several hours back at the lodge, I switched from ettl to M and it fired. Then switched back to ettl and it fired. I'm pretty sure I toggled that in the field to no effect, but perhaps not. So I'm not sure if the switch or some time indoors cured it, but it works for now.
I still find it odd that the red pilot light does not switch off anymore after it powers up (pilot going off after a few moments is normal, right?). But we'll see what happens in the field maņana. Thanks again, all, for the quick advice.