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Thanks Douglas, Ray and Tim.
The Milford Track is a 4-day, 3-night backpack hike.
A boat takes you across Lake Te Anau, you do the hike for 4 days, and you catch another boat across an oceanic fjord to the end of a road that leads back to the town of Te Anau (there is a bus service).
Because of concerns about "loving it to death," there are certain restrictions. You must stay on the main trail (except for little things like taking photos, etc.). You must stay overnight in the prescribed cabins (they provide only shelter, water, bunk beds, and a couple of small cook stoves). Well, that's the trek I signed up for (limited number of hikers per day). There was another trek along the same trail that cost more but offered better overnight accommodations (better- but not by much).
The passes we crossed were not high, but they were steep, as this image shows.
The entire Milford Track is in a rain forest. As if to prove that, it rained on me all day every day on the trek. I was soaked from top to bottom every day. It was one of the best backpack hikes I've ever taken.
(Yes, Tim, the air smelled fresh .)