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Archive 2012 · Major change, need advice
  
 
dmacmillan
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p.2 #1 · p.2 #1 · Major change, need advice


Mark_L wrote:
The question is do you like the way it looks not whether the histogram warning is there in LR.

You're forgetting a few of the basic tenets here. No matter how aesthetically great an image may be, if there's any clipping, it's no good. There's also a corollary.



Jan 04, 2012 at 07:03 PM
BrianO
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p.2 #2 · p.2 #2 · Major change, need advice


dortizphoto wrote:
Here I raised the shadows/clipping just a tad (image on right). Would you say that's the correct thing to do in a situation such as this?


I don't think it was a good idea in this case.

Although it brought out more of the blue cap, it also raised the BG, and in this case parts of the BG are now visible as a dull red -- probably not what you wanted.

Lacking a hair light or a rim light, you could get more detail in the top of the hat by raising the key and fill lights a bit higher and aiming them down a bit so the top edge is further forward than the bottom edge, and if they are in fairly large modifiers you shouldn't adversely affect the lighting on the face too much. (A seperate hair/accent light would be better, though. Even a reflector panel might be enough.)

I disagree with dmacmillan in this case (which is unnusual); I think when you're going for a pure black or a pure white BG it should be clipping -- on the left for black and on the right for white.



Jan 04, 2012 at 07:59 PM
dmacmillan
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p.2 #3 · p.2 #3 · Major change, need advice


BrianO wrote:
I disagree with dmacmillan in this case (which is unnusual); I think when you're going for a pure black or a pure white BG it should be clipping -- on the left for black and on the right for white.

Actually we agree. I forgot to include the [sarcasm] tag.



Jan 04, 2012 at 08:14 PM
BrianO
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p.2 #4 · p.2 #4 · Major change, need advice


BrianO wrote:
I disagree with dmacmillan in this case (which is unnusual); I think when you're going for a pure black or a pure white BG it should be clipping -- on the left for black and on the right for white.


dmacmillan wrote:
Actually we agree. I forgot to include the [sarcasm] tag.


Ah, gotcha. There must have been a previous exchange I didn't see?



Jan 04, 2012 at 08:20 PM
dortizphoto
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p.2 #5 · p.2 #5 · Major change, need advice


Thanks everyone for your time and advice. This was just one light using grid and a 42" reflector (white). I'll pull the other AB-800 out and experiment with that as well.

Question ... can I use my Canon 580EX-2 (I have two of them) together with the ABs? Just wondering if anyone has tried mixing the two.

Thanks again,
Dave



Jan 04, 2012 at 08:24 PM
BrianO
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p.2 #6 · p.2 #6 · Major change, need advice


dortizphoto wrote:
Question ... can I use my Canon 580EX-2 (I have two of them) together with the ABs? Just wondering if anyone has tried mixing the two.


Sure. I haven't used ABs, but I've mixed Speedlites and other studio strobes. It works great to put the Speedlite, set in Manual power mode, out on a boom to act as a hair light, for example, and keep the big boys on the ground as key and fill.

I use a Canon-compatible optical slave to trigger the Speedlite from the flash of whichever strobe is connected to the camera. The Sonia brand uses a green base to indicate Canon-compatible units so you don't confuse them with non-compatible ones.

http://www.flashzebra.com/products/0118/index.shtml
http://www.flashzebra.com/products/0127/index.shtml

You can't use Canon's optical wireless triggering without some special workarounds, because the command preflashes will trigger the strobes prematurely, but going the other way around works fine.


Edited on Jan 04, 2012 at 08:39 PM · View previous versions



Jan 04, 2012 at 08:33 PM
dmacmillan
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p.2 #7 · p.2 #7 · Major change, need advice


BrianO wrote:
Ah, gotcha. There must have been a previous exchange I didn't see?

Think for a minute. ;-)



Jan 04, 2012 at 08:39 PM
dortizphoto
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p.2 #8 · p.2 #8 · Major change, need advice


Hi Brian. I have a Cybersync transmitter and two receivers. I was wondering if I can place one receiver on the AB-800 and have that one trigger the second AB-800 by way of slave/flash. Then maybe i can place the second receiver on the 580EX2. I wonder if that will fly??

Regards,
Dave



Jan 04, 2012 at 08:43 PM
BrianO
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p.2 #9 · p.2 #9 · Major change, need advice


dortizphoto wrote:
Hi Brian. I have a Cybersync transmitter and two receivers. I was wondering if I can place one receiver on the AB-800 and have that one trigger the second AB-800 by way of slave/flash. Then maybe i can place the second receiver on the 580EX2. I wonder if that will fly??


I've never used Cybersyncs, so I'm not 100% sure (and if I'm wrong someone will soon let us know), but I think that would work.

Some optical slaves will lock up after the first shot, which is why you need a special Canon-compatible version, but I don't think that's an issue with radio links like Skyports, Pocket Wizards, and Cybersyncs.



Jan 04, 2012 at 08:49 PM
dortizphoto
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p.2 #10 · p.2 #10 · Major change, need advice


OK Brian. I will give it a shot this weekend and post if it worked -- should be an interesting exercise.

Thanks again Brian.

Regards,
Dave



Jan 05, 2012 at 01:53 AM
 

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dortizphoto
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p.2 #11 · p.2 #11 · Major change, need advice


Hello Everyone!

I plan on working at this over the upcoming weekend. I've taken down all our Christmas decorations, so my wife should allow me the time needed to focus on this project (smile).

That being said, I'd like to vier off-topic for just a moment. As some of you may know, I recently traded my Canon 5D2 which has a whopping 21Mpx sensor for a Canon 1Dmk3 which ONLY has a 10Mpx sensor. I did this mainly because with the unpredictability of photojournalist work, I needed the better and faster focus system. Sadly; I'm aware that image quality wise, I obviously took a step backward. Which brings me to my issue ....

I've always shot in landscape mode with my 21Mpx sensor because I had plenty of image into to crop a portrait without compromising image quality since my maximum prints were only 11x14 anyway. For my Christmas party shoot, I threw away so much picture data it was ridiculous, yet still wound-up with good quality 8x10 and 11x14 sized prints. However, I fear that will not be the case with my newly acquired 1Dmk3. So my question is ...

Where do you guys frame your subjects to keep the most image info available while still being able to crop for an 8x10 on a 3:4 sensor? As you know, if we were to print 4x6 ratio prints we'd be fine right off camera, but what happens when we go with an 8x10 ratio?

For example:
http://i.pbase.com/o6/88/335988/1/140739955.KUcq3cfX.crop.jpg
The image on the left is a 8x10 crop of the image on the right which is right out of the camera un-cropped.

Do I step waaaaaaaay back and crop off the top and bottom to bring say a full body portrait into an 8x10 print without chopping off someone at the knees? I believe (and I could be wrong) if I shoot landscape and crop to 8x10 portrait I'm going to run into trouble image quality wise with my newly acquired 10Mpx 1D3.

I read this article, but it really doesn't answer the cropping for prints keeping the entire subject within the final cropped image:

http://www.digital-photography-school.com/is-portrait-formatting-always-best-for-portraits

This next article is a PERFECT example. If you scroll down to the first vertical image of a woman (full body shot). You can tell that image is right off the camera ratio wise (or so it seems anyway). Take that very same image and crop at 8x10 and you'll lose part of her legs.

http://improvephotography.com/1305/101-portrait-photography-tips-to-improve-your-photography/

Now obviously for a single shot like that if I move back (or zoom out) I'll capture the 8x10 spot .. but where is that in the frame of the camera? I mean, once we frame it and shoot, when we come back to the digital dark-room and we didn't allow enough space, we're toast. I know for a single subject like this I'll save image data going vertical. But what happens when I have 2 or 3 people -- do I switch to horizontal?

Here's a thread (dpReview) I believe addresses this very same issue:

http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/readflat.asp?forum=1002&message=38002535&changemode=1

I guess what I'm trying to learn here is how you guys "see" the image in the frame of the camera and know when you can yield an 8x10 print while preserving as much image data as possible. Hope I'm explaining this correctly. :-(

From my best calculations it looks like I'd lose 1/4 of the frame. If such is the case then I have to step back (or zoom out) to allow an additional 1/4 frame to compensate if I still want the full subject in an 8x10 crop. That's my interpretation of this, not necessarily the right one. :-)

Any thoughts? Sorry for breaking the thread pattern, I wasn't sure if I should have started another one under a different heading.

Regards,
Dave



Jan 05, 2012 at 11:33 AM
dortizphoto
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p.2 #12 · p.2 #12 · Major change, need advice


Nice feature that 7D has. I have to admit, having that feature allows us more control and accuracy in-camera. I had no idea that feature was available until I started researching this on the Internet. Pity how I was shooting landscape and cropping a portrait shot tossing all that data away. My former 5D2 was forgiving in that regard. However, I'm confident my 1D3 won't be. :-(

I don't have the Digital Professional software. I sent mine along with the 5D2 but didn't receive one with my 1D3.

Thanks again, Brian.
Dave



Jan 06, 2012 at 02:25 AM
BrianO
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p.2 #13 · p.2 #13 · Major change, need advice


dortizphoto wrote:
I don't have the Digital Professional software. I sent mine along with the 5D2 but didn't receive one with my 1D3.


If you think you'd use it, let me know; I can get you a free copy (older version) that you can then update online.



Jan 06, 2012 at 04:50 AM
dortizphoto
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p.2 #14 · p.2 #14 · Major change, need advice


Hi Brian. Let me check my 40D box to see if I have the disk in there. I only fooled around with that product once then went on to Lightroom v3.

Looking forward to my practice session with Barbara using multiple strobes.

Thanks,
Dave



Jan 06, 2012 at 06:34 PM
BrianO
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p.2 #15 · p.2 #15 · Major change, need advice


dortizphoto wrote:
...Today (as promised) I took put my second AB-800 and used it as a hair light. ...Im experimenting with the lights, so these are not quality images I know. However, I welcome your valued feedback and suggestions.


I can't tell in the third image, but in the first two the "hairlight" isn't lighting the cap enough on the camera-left side. It needs to be higher and aimed down from more to the rear. If you're in your dining room, though, that may not be possible due to ceiling height limitations. In that case you just have to get it as far behind the subject as you can without it showing in the frame and use it as a rim light, or get it low and point it up to bounce off the ceiling; anything to get more seperation between the cap and the background.

The background bothers me; it's not totally black, but it's too dark to really see what it is. It's neither fish nor foul as the saying goes.

You're definitely on the right path, though. Your exposure of Barbara's skin is good, and the shadows on her face are well placed in my opinion.



Jan 07, 2012 at 04:35 AM
BrianO
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p.2 #16 · p.2 #16 · Major change, need advice


Nice background! That looks great, and I love the way uplighting it with the Speedlite gives a bit darker background down at her shoulders and lighter up at her face.

So, how did you trigger all three lights?



Jan 07, 2012 at 10:49 PM
dortizphoto
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p.2 #17 · p.2 #17 · Major change, need advice


Thanks Brian, that critique means a lot to me. Here's how I triggered the lights ...

Camera: CyberSync Transmitter
Main/Key: CyberSync Receiver
SpeedLight: CyberSync Receiver
Hair/Rim: Hardwired with trigger cable from Camera

Regards,
Dave



Jan 07, 2012 at 10:53 PM
BrianO
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p.2 #18 · p.2 #18 · Major change, need advice


dortizphoto wrote:
...Here's how I triggered the lights ...

Camera: CyberSync Transmitter
Main/Key: CyberSync Receiver
SpeedLight: CyberSync Receiver
Hair/Rim: Hardwired with trigger cable from Camera


I don't know much about Alien Bees, but one thing you might try is using the built-in optical slave on one of the Bees to be triggered by the other Bees' light. I'm pretty sure that would work, and would eliminate the need for a cable from the camera.



Jan 07, 2012 at 11:01 PM
dortizphoto
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p.2 #19 · p.2 #19 · Major change, need advice


Hi Brian. I tried that first, but the flash output with the grids and low power setting doesn't appear to generate enough light to be "seen" by the optical slave sensor. Unless I'm doing something wrong. :-(

Here's my "studio" try not to laugh too hard.. lol

Note the SpeedLight on the chair (lower right).. backdrop far right wall.
http://i.pbase.com/g4/88/335988/2/140782311.GfYxTYrj.jpg



Jan 07, 2012 at 11:03 PM
dortizphoto
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p.2 #20 · p.2 #20 · Major change, need advice


Here's Barbara, "framed" -- still needs work, but hopefully getting there.
http://i.pbase.com/o6/88/335988/1/140783531.5tUiKbtK.framed.jpg
Thoughts?

Regards,
Dave



Jan 07, 2012 at 11:55 PM
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