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Most tilt adjustment can be done from the tables that show for a given focal length of lens the tilt angle required for a given distance of the lens to the tilted plane of focus you desire. Once you set your tilt angle, you can focus on one object in the scene, and the rest should fall into line well enough to be within your depth of field at your shooting aperture. For more critical situations live view and depth of field preview can help, but I rarely take the time to do that. And trying to find a tilt angle by trial and error with no starting point by checking cirtical focus at two or three points can drive you nuts. I always start with a tilt angle from a table, and only adjust slightly away from that angle if I am sure it is necessary.
Shift adjustment is generally simple for any shift lens. For most shots, you are wanting to avoid perspective distortion from a tilt up or down of the camera. To adjust shift in those situations, first level the camera front to back, and then shift up or down to frame your subject. If you can not shift enough, keep that maximum shift and go ahead and tilt the camera away from level. On a full frame camera, try to avoid the last few millimeters of shift on the lens if you can, because you are approaching the edges of the large image circle the lens has, and may end up with soft corners.
I use both my 17mm TS-E and my 24mm TS-E II as plain wide angle lenses part of the time, but have no fear of using tilt or shift or both as needed. I have no experience with Zeiss to compare to, but really enjoy the newest Canon TS-E's.