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Shooting with Tubes
  
 
kwoodard
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p.21 #1 · p.21 #1 · Shooting with Tubes


saph wrote:
Kevin, the 50mm lenses aren't meant for snake macros Great job though, very nice detail!


I think that's the beauty of tubes...to go beyond the expected.


saph wrote:
Another image with the Nikon 180 2.8 AIS combined with the PN-11 + PK-13 tubes.

http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b530/sa_maryland_fotofun/Macros/ShellMacro_zps9323c905.jpg



I really like this!

I was at a camera swap meet today. Picked up a decent focusing rail. Have seen them for about $50, got it for $15, doesn't look to be used much at all. Can't wait to try it out.



Apr 14, 2013 at 11:42 PM
saph
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p.21 #2 · p.21 #2 · Shooting with Tubes


That is cool Kevin, look forward to seeing your work with a focusing rail. I have thought of getting it but somehow haven't yet. Sure beats the Curtis method of rocking back and forth

I presume the focusing rail has to be sturdy enough to hold the camera/lens combo steady, I am interested to find out what you experience.

kwoodard wrote:
I think that's the beauty of tubes...to go beyond the expected.


I really like this!

I was at a camera swap meet today. Picked up a decent focusing rail. Have seen them for about $50, got it for $15, doesn't look to be used much at all. Can't wait to try it out.




Apr 16, 2013 at 12:24 PM
kwoodard
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p.21 #3 · p.21 #3 · Shooting with Tubes


saph wrote:
That is cool Kevin, look forward to seeing your work with a focusing rail. I have thought of getting it but somehow haven't yet. Sure beats the Curtis method of rocking back and forth

I presume the focusing rail has to be sturdy enough to hold the camera/lens combo steady, I am interested to find out what you experience.


I am hoping to bring it with me to work Thursday and Friday. Will let you know for sure!



Apr 16, 2013 at 02:53 PM
CGrindahl
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p.21 #4 · p.21 #4 · Shooting with Tubes


Glad to see you guys playing with tubes. Even the most mundane subject can come alive when we get close with tubes. Of course, one of my favorite subject when I've mounted tubes are flowers and with Spring in full bloom in California I have plenty of things to shoot... Lately I've been rambling about with the 300 f/4.5 AI-s ED-IF with a PK-13 attached. This lens is easily hand held, is very sharp wide open and has a sufficiently long focus throw that I have a considerable focal range I can get sharp images. I typically am between 18 inches and three feet. I shot this yesterday. I'd driven past these roses for a couple of days but finally had to stop. This has been cropped. I was about three feet from the rose bush. Hand held, wide open...




Apr 17, 2013 at 04:23 PM
saph
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p.21 #5 · p.21 #5 · Shooting with Tubes


Crisp and colorful, Curtis! And perfectly exposed.

Here's one cross posted from the Nikon manual lens thread. Used 5.8cm 1.4S + PK-13. 1/250 and ISO 2000 in fading light. Used f/11 to get most of the flower in focus at that angle.









Apr 18, 2013 at 12:24 AM
saph
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p.21 #6 · p.21 #6 · Shooting with Tubes


Flower for the day with tubes - repeating the Nikon 5.8cm 1.4S + PK13 tube combination in better lighting.










Apr 18, 2013 at 11:12 PM
CGrindahl
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p.21 #7 · p.21 #7 · Shooting with Tubes


The light definitely helps Samy... as has been said, photographers paint with light... Very nice.


Apr 19, 2013 at 01:51 AM
kwoodard
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p.21 #8 · p.21 #8 · Shooting with Tubes


Got to teach a few beginning photog students a little bit about macro work today. Was fun! Outside was a little bit breezy, but did manage a few between gusts.

All shots with PK13...Nikon D7000.

First up is the Nikkor-Q 135/2.8. Other than the crop, SOOC


DSC_7789 by Kevin.Woodard, on Flickr

Series E 50/1.8


DSC_7826 by Kevin.Woodard, on Flickr


DSC_7828 by Kevin.Woodard, on Flickr

Looks like the Series E 50mm is about a 1:2 ratio, so the bug is half size...



Apr 19, 2013 at 06:03 AM
CGrindahl
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p.21 #9 · p.21 #9 · Shooting with Tubes


Excellent work Kevin. That 135 does remarkably well. It is definitely an adventure doing this kind of work with a breeze. Patience IS a virtue...


Apr 19, 2013 at 06:58 AM
kwoodard
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p.21 #10 · p.21 #10 · Shooting with Tubes


This is a first for me... I never post the JPG that come straight out of the camera, but here are three. Taken with the 80-200/4.5 AI with the addition of a PK13. All images are -.7EV as it was noon sun, so the color isn't as I like. I won't have ACR access until I get home. Will play with them a little there, but I don't think they will need much.

Nikon D7000


_DSC7879 by Kevin.Woodard, on Flickr


_DSC7848 by Kevin.Woodard, on Flickr


_DSC7896 by Kevin.Woodard, on Flickr



Apr 19, 2013 at 08:58 PM
 

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CGrindahl
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p.21 #11 · p.21 #11 · Shooting with Tubes


You're definitely getting the hang of it Kevin. I agree, the images lose a bit of life when exposure is diminished. The key is to get the exposure right when shooting. This is the reason I'm inclined to shoot with spot metering when working in bright light. I'll often use the auto exposure lock to make certain the brightest part of the image isn't blown out. No doubt bright light with shadows is very difficult to handle well. We need to simply keep working at it.

Here's a crop of a flower, taken with the 105 f/2.5 P AI'd with a P-13 attached. I like the way the petals fold together.




Apr 19, 2013 at 09:41 PM
kwoodard
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p.21 #12 · p.21 #12 · Shooting with Tubes


CGrindahl wrote:
You're definitely getting the hang of it Kevin. I agree, the images lose a bit of life when exposure is diminished. The key is to get the exposure right when shooting. This is the reason I'm inclined to shoot with spot metering when working in bright light. I'll often use the auto exposure lock to make certain the brightest part of the image isn't blown out. No doubt bright light with shadows is very difficult to handle well. We need to simply keep working at it.


That is exactly what I did. For the yellow daisy, I thought about adjusting the EV to -.3, just thought about it after I left. I spot meter always on whatever is the brightest spot I see and adjust from there. I have two other shots that may be better as far as exposure goes, but not as clean or sharp. When I can get them into my computer at home, I should be able to give it a bump in exposure and be good...same with the rest. Historically, I have had to run with a -.7EV in this kind of noon harsh light, so I set it there and essentially forgot about it until I got these onto my work computer. Still happy enough with them to post, but they can look better.



Apr 19, 2013 at 10:12 PM
CGrindahl
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p.21 #13 · p.21 #13 · Shooting with Tubes


In Lightroom I'll occasionally increase luminance which will add a bit of inner glow to a subject. When used in the orange and yellow channels it makes the image appear brighter. You're really doing what we all do Kevin, practicing both when shooting and in post. I often increase exposure in post to capture the brightness missing in an image that appear a bit dull.. We shoot and we adjust. We learn by doing, I guess.


Apr 20, 2013 at 12:06 AM
kwoodard
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p.21 #14 · p.21 #14 · Shooting with Tubes


Yup, my motto in life: learn by doing.


Apr 20, 2013 at 05:27 AM
saph
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p.21 #15 · p.21 #15 · Shooting with Tubes


Kevin and Curtis, I have always struggled with exposure especially with red and similar colors, and tend to underexpose to protect highlights and then bring it out in post. Doesn't always come out too good. I may also need to check if the spot meter area is set to the smallest possible, otherwise the unwanted areas contribute to metering. Its good to see the observations on how you guys work with tougher light conditions in camera and in PP, thanks!

And shouldn't have looked at this page, the 105 2.5 P is talking to me, I am afraid



Apr 20, 2013 at 10:05 AM
Pete A
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p.21 #16 · p.21 #16 · Shooting with Tubes


This week I was at a lecture given by an eminent British photographer and she generally exposes for the shadows as it is harder to get detail from underexposed shadows than slightly overexposed highlights.


Apr 20, 2013 at 12:30 PM
saph
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p.21 #17 · p.21 #17 · Shooting with Tubes


Pete, I think I read the contrasting view (protecting shadows) when I was starting out with DSLRs a few years ago and have stuck to it for too long.

Here's an example of a recent photo which was somewhat underexposed and then worked on in post to make the histogram more balanced. I am going to experiment more and try going a bit the other way from now on. Its still the reds and neighboring colors that I worry will be beyond recovery when overexposed.







Also with the 5.8cm 1.4S + PK-13.



Apr 20, 2013 at 01:03 PM
Larrys
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p.21 #18 · p.21 #18 · Shooting with Tubes


After looking at this thread, I realize that I need tubes!

Thanks for the eye opener everyone.



Apr 20, 2013 at 03:58 PM
kwoodard
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p.21 #19 · p.21 #19 · Shooting with Tubes


My first focus stack! 7 images. Series E 28/2.8 @ f/5.6 in front of a PK13 (27.5mm) extension tube which yields a magnification of 2.6:1. This is a vertical crop of a horizontal image, about 30%

D7000

Daddy long legs...


Daddy Long Legs by Kevin.Woodard, on Flickr



Apr 20, 2013 at 06:04 PM
kwoodard
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p.21 #20 · p.21 #20 · Shooting with Tubes


Nikkor 80-200/4.5 AI - D7000


_DSC7901 by Kevin.Woodard, on Flickr


_DSC7878 by Kevin.Woodard, on Flickr



Apr 20, 2013 at 07:45 PM
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