While on vacation in Hawaii with my family I stopped to get a few images at Sandy Beach as the brave or foolish got beat up in some pretty choppy surf.
that is some really massive surf, and some very brave souls. The first is nice, but I prefer the second, better scale on the wave, better color in the water, and you can only imagine what is running through the surfers head as he is bailing out. It is a good atypical shot, and I like it for that.
I got my first big barrel at Sandy's at 13 years old. After that, I was hooked. Caught the beach bus from Kailua to Sandy's every weekend during summer (with my McDonald's tray and one Navel Orange Duck Feet fin).
! Typical Sandy's BACKWASH on a big day in #2! Watchout! 